Ilomantsi: Susitaival, Day 4

I wake up early at the wilderness hut by Harkkojärvi lake. It is still raining, perhaps a bit more than yesterday. The positive side of it is that at least there should be no mosquitoes (well, there haven't been too many so far either). I pack my backpack slowly and get ready for a walk in the rain. Today's plan is to follow the Susitaival Trail at least to Naarva, if not beyond.

The very first part of the path follows Harkkojärvi lake on even ground and offers two short cruises across the water, courtesy of Ilomantsi. Self-service, of course. I jump aboard the light ferry and pull myself across with the orange rope. Thanks to the hiker who came from this direction yesterday, the ferries are waiting for me on the right side of the shore when I arrive.

The map tells me that these will be the last lakes before Naarva. I miss this scenery already; paths that run close to the water are usually the best ones. Even when it rains.

However, when I leave the green forest, I am greeted by a clear felling area. There are very few trees left standing, and if there is a storm, even they will easily be gone because there is no longer the protection of the forest. I know the trail is somewhere around here... Finally, I discern some orange paint marks on the tree stumps and continue my walk along the muddy tracks left by the heavy machinery.

This must be the most difficult part of the trail - to watch. I have walked through such wonderful ridges during these past few days that I know exactly how beautiful this area must have been before the felling. I stop for a bit of rest and take my backpack down. Even my back is moaning. Not so good.

The clear felling area is pretty large, but finally it is behind me. The part of the trail I will least miss! It feels good to be back among the pine trees, heather and lichen. Besides the raindrops falling from the sky, the young pine trees that grow right next to the path are getting friendly with me, and keep brushing their wet branches against my face and jacket. Nice of them to wish me luck, isn't it...

When I reach the edge of the pine forest, there is a surprise waiting. This shelter is not marked in my map! This is the only place after Jorho where it is possible to sit down and not be rained on, so it is a welcome sight indeed. Well, it seems that the roof of both the shelter and the toilet leak so perhaps it was better not to know about this place. At least I didn't accidentally get wet during the night!

At Petrokangas, the trail follows a road for a while. Apparently, there isn't too much traffic, or the cars don't mind an occasional fallen tree.

When I get closer to Naarva, I can see houses this close for the first time since I started the trail. It feels strange to walk past the old farmhouse. As if I was coming back to 'normal' life with electricity and all that. Then there is another house, and another, and a Susitaival sign pointing to the left. Next to it, another sign welcomes me to Hirvola farm (camping, rooms and cottages to rent, sauna available!) which is at the end of the path.

I walk through the yard of Hirvola farm. The open view to the distance tells that it will keep on raining for the rest of the day as well. What should I do? I could spend the night at Hirvola and see if my back is better in the morning...

However, you have to make difficult decisions sometimes. My difficult decision today is to finish my Susitaival right here, after about 62 km, leaving one third of the whole trail for another time. These boots would happily keep on walking but one single aching muscle in my back decides otherwise. If it got any worse when I was somewhere in the woods, there would be nobody to help me carry my backpack, so better be sensible.

The local taxi driver is at home so I catch a taxi from Naarva to Ilomantsi village straight away. Susitaival was four great days of solitude, fantastic nature, peace. And good-looking false morels. Thanks and farewell, Susitaival. I'll be back.

Ilomantsi: Susitaival Trail, Day 3

Gone is the hard wind from yesterday, replaced by a steady drizzle. I wake up to a wet morning, get out of my warm sleeping bag and start making breakfast with my Trangia stove. Don't want to struggle with making a fire. Lake Kaunisjärvi is all stillness except for the raindrops that land on its surface.

The clear lake is trying to hide its beauty in the greyness of the morning but I still get an idea of how gorgeous it must be on a clearer day. On a hot day it would be great to walk into the water and feel the sand beneath my feet. After a refreshing cup of tea I get into full rain gear and walk back to the dirt road and today's Susitaival Trail. While walking, I keep hearing a Finnish song in my head: Ilomantsi by Juice Leskinen; the song was competing for a place to represent Finland in the Eurovision Song Contest in 1981, but without success... 

I pass through heath with pines but very soon I enter the fantastic forests wearing their early summer greens. I pass a simple wooden bridge, accidentally scare a bird that is swimming in the water, come to a path that is surrounded by mires and again arrive at the greenest scenery by the small lakes. Even without the sun, I feel dazzled.

The raindrops keep falling on my head as well as on the lakes, everywhere. A pair of swan takes it easy on the other side of the pond on my left, and a cuckoo is singing happily on my right.

The beavers are hiding somewhere nearby, but they have left their familiar marks on the trees next to a small brook that connects the lakes. This birch is doomed to become part of the beavers' next home.

Rain, rain, rain... In addition to trying to make me as wet as possible, the raindrops are slyly making the path less safe than before. If I'm not careful enough, it would be very easy to slip on the wet rocks or roots. I almost trip twice, but luckily manage to keep my balance.

Far too soon the path arrives at a clearing: a huge pile of logs is waiting by the side of the road in the distance. It means that for a while, the trail marks are no longer on tree trunks but there are painted marks on tree stumps or rocks on the ground, or on sticks put up here and there. Of course you could say it means that you get a better view to the nearby lakes and beyond, but the scenery with only few, lonely trees scattered on the formerly gorgeous ridges full of trees is simply sad.

It is only one or two kilometers until the next wilderness hut when something strange happens. I see another hiker coming towards me! A human being! We say a brief hello - why bother to stop and chat... I know there would be many hours of daylight left for me to keep going as well but I decide to call it a day and not continue any further than Jorho, although I have "only" walked about 14,5 km today.  When I walk down the slope to Harkkojärvi and see the grey log cabin next to it, I feel happy already: soon I'll be able to make a fire and start drying my gear. I wonder if there are other people?

Whether it is being antisocial or just enjoying the solitude, I feel lucky to have the hut completely for myself, to continue my journey in silence. Jorho hut is taken care of by the local Lions Club, LC Ilomantsi Brihat; thanks for providing me with this well kept haven for the night.

The rain stops for a brief moment towards the evening, and I take a stroll at the sandy beach. The well provides fresh drinking water. According to the guest book of the hut, some travellers have arrived here by plane, landing on lake Harkkojärvi, and continued their journey by air to another part of Finland the next day. Right now it is hard to even imagine changing scenery that fast, and I feel no desire to be travelling with motor. Even if I feel a bit of pain in one of the muscles on my back. Ah well, it will probably be alright in the morning, after a good night's sleep at Jorho. I sincerely hope so.

When I go to sleep, I think about the 36 false morels that I did not pick from the path today. Better not think about them and sleep instead.

Ilomantsi: Susitaival Trail, Day 2

The morning sun greets me at the wilderness hut of Pohjoinen Pitkäjärvi (Northern Long Lake). I make a fire outside and sit down to enjoy my simple breakfast. A quiet moment before continuing along the Susitaival Trail. Cuckoos are also awake on the other side of the lake.

I catch glimpses of the lake for the first part of the journey, walking among fir trees, but soon I arrive at a dirt road. The name of the first road, Kontiolammentie (Bear Pond Road) suggests that bears are not a rare sight over here but they decide not to show their faces to me. A good decision. Soon I arrive at a nameless little road which again leads me to the forest.

It would be really easy to follow the extremely straight footpath except for some fallen young fir trees... Apparently the storms have passed through this area as well. However, it only requires one or two steps to get round the obstacles.

One of the spruces by the path is in bloom. A beautiful sight that you don't often see! There are also some old pine trees the likes of which you don't see in cities. Hmm, I hope the red band on some trees does not mean that they are about to be felled soon.

The path is surrounded by masses of blooming blueberries. There will be absolutely loads this summer! It is wonderfully quiet to walk here. The only sounds I hear are birds singing, the wind blowing and my own footsteps on the needle-covered path. This is peace.

The Kontiovaara shelter is only a few steps off Susitaival, and it is signposted. Although the shelter is right by the side of a dirt road, I doubt there are too many people driving past, but local fishermen or hunters (when there is hunting season) probably stop here as well, not just hikers. I sit down for a snack and listen to the wind. Will it start raining more heavily? It seems that there will only be a bit of a drizzle; fine by me.

At the next mire, the duckboards are not feeling too well - surprising, because they have so far been in really good condition. Hope these will be fixed soon. Oh well, in these conditions, you can't expect duckboards to last forever.

There is so much Hare's tail Cottongrass (tupasvilla in Finnish) that it almost makes me think of snow. Wait a minute, there are also some cloudberry flowers!

The path winds close to Pieni and Suuri Kivilampi (pieni = small, suuri = big / great) that are surrounded by forest heath. The wooden bridge between the little lakes takes you to yet another mire which is followed by a cutting area, some more dirt roads and finally a lovely path across some ridges.

When I arrive at Särkkäjärvi wilderness hut I almost wish I was going to spend the night here. There is a great open, covered fireplace right by the lake and higher up, the hut itself which looks very comfortable. It is taken care of by the local Lehtovaara village society - thank you so much! I fill my water bottle from the well, have another snack and wave goodbye to this lovely place.

I really like the fact that the trail takes you through very different types of forest. There is very flat land and mires, a bit of uphill and downhill walking on the ridges, dry land, wet land, little roads and narrow footpaths. What was that? Oh, a male capercaillie just took off! Sorry, didn't mean to disturb you.

Already at Särkkäjärvi lake, I spotted signs of beavers. Therefore, I am not surprised to get into closer contact with their work a bit later, after Hattuvaara road, although I wasn't exactly hoping to find the path cut by a dam. The water level has risen on the other side and apparently the beavers have taken away the duckboards, so have to check how I will get across with dry feet.

I take a stick, shaped by a beaver, find some more of those, and use the sticks both as a bridge and to balance myself across. When I'm sure I can make it easily, I go back and take my backpack - and get across safely.

Towards the evening, the weather is changing; the drizzle seems to have come to stay. I arrive at a cutting area but luckily the trail is still well marked. Not long to go before I've finished today's walk of 22 km... The open shelter at lake Kaunisjärvi is welcoming, and I am so happy the wind is not blowing right into it. I remember fondly the 45 false morels that I did NOT pick today from the path and settle for cooking something else for dinner. Susitaival is said to be for people who enjoy silence. I should add: solitude. I only had myself for company today, and got along just fine.

Ilomantsi: Susitaival Trail, Day 1

Susitaival Trail (or Wolf's Trail) is about 96-97 km long hiking trail which runs mostly in Ilomantsi area in Northern Karelia, Finland. Its southern starting point is at the easternmost village of Finland at Möhkö, 23 km east from Ilomantsi. I step off the bus by Koitajoki river and see it take off; this was the last school day before the holidays and the bus service begins again in August. A granite war memorial greets me next to the bus stop. During WW2 in 1944, there was heavy fighting in the village area. Möhkö is extremely close to the border zone between Finland and Russia.

Susitaival Trail begins on the other side of the Möhkönkoski rapids, soon after the narrow canal, turning to the left. However, before hitting the trail I make a brief stop at Möhkö Ironworks museum (ironworks = ruukki) where the other hiker seems to be heading as well. Actually, the German-speaking hiker is asking where the trail starts because he does not have a map with him! Well, the Karjalan Kierros / Ilomantsi maps (1:100 000) are not for sale at Möhkö so getting your maps before arriving here is a must. The museum staff kindly take photocopies of my map for the other hiker but they look worried, especially when hearing that he plans to hike as far as Teljo, including both this and the Karhunpolku trail further north. "Are you sure you have enough food with you?"

I take off alone and hope the other hiker will be alright as well. The trail is pretty well marked with orange circles painted on trees and rocks, occasionally with Susitaival signs, but I prefer to carry a map to know what is ahead, where you can make a fire or find a shelter, and just in case something unexpected happens. 

For the first part I walk on dirt roads, then follow the arrow sign to the right and finally spot an orange trail mark. Entering clear felling areas means that the trees with the original trail marks are gone, but luckily they have been usually replaced with paint circles here and there. After stepping through the young birches that have taken over the trail, I land on the soft, needle-covered track that winds through different forest types, but mostly fir trees and pines, then again walk on a dirt road before returning to a narrow path.

The wonderfully wide duckboards take me easily across the mire. You don't need to have two of these side by side!

The pink flowers of bog-rosemary (suokukka) - a poisonous plant - add a touch of fresh colour on the mires. The more familiar white flowered wild rosemary is not quite yet in bloom. Walking on the mires and the heath forests is easy because the terrain is very flat.

Upon seeing the very first false morel (korvasieni) right in the middle of the path I pause for a moment but there's no way I can start picking these delicious beauties to take them home with me. Farewell, my lovely. I wonder will there be many more... Very important note: false morels are poisonous (can be even deadly!) and must not be eaten unless prepared properly.

After reaching Öykköstenvaara the scenery turns simply gorgeous. The path is on the top of the ridge which is between two lakes, Sysmä and Eteläinen Pitkäjärvi. This reminds me of Punkaharju ridges close to Savonlinna, but over here there are no cars passing me by. The only sounds are the sound of my footsteps and the occasional cuckoos from the other side of the smaller lake. Oh the beauty of this early summer eve in Karelia!

Well, someone, or rather something else has gone before me. The almost black scat includes berries - cranberries, I suppose. Possibly by a brown bear that has also taken a walk here; I am not an expert on scat.

Crossing the brook that leads to Sysmä lake is easy; there is a wooden bridge. Walking with a backpack makes you feel pretty warm so it feels great to rinse my face on the fresh water. Very soon I will arrive at an even better resting place because today's journey, a 13 km walk is close to an end.  What a good start to Susitaival! Well, I've also said goodbye to some poisonous fellows met on the way. Actually, on the path itself... 43 false morels and one black snake, a common European viper.

The wilderness hut of Pohjoinen Pitkäjärvi (Northern Long Lake) is simple yet total luxury: a fireplace both inside and outside, an outdoor toilet, and a lake right in front of it. It is a great feeling to take off the backpack which feels heavy at this point, and get ready for some rest. First some exercise with a saw and axe though, to chop some firewood (provided for free) - but thanks to the previous visitors, I'm only doing it to make some ready for the next visitor, as the custom goes. The hut gives me a welcome night's sleep, without any mosquitoes inside...

Ilomantsi: poetic Karelia

Traditional Karelian embroidery

I arrive at Ilomantsi, Northern Karelia, with solitary forest trails on my mind but have to be patient; the only bus from Ilomantsi village to the tiny Möhkö village won't leave for some hours. However, this is far from disappointing because it gives me time for a short walk in Ilomantsi village itself. A bit of culture before entering the woods.

The main street of Ilomantsi is Kalevalantie, named after the Finnish national epic Kalevala. Quite a few of the poems of the epic were collected from this area (besides other regions in Karelia) by Elias Lönnrot who toured Karelia in early 19th century to find singers who still remembered the ancient poems and verses.

I turn from Kalevalantie to Kauppatie, past the Doll and teddy bear house (Nukke- ja nalletalo) and see a hand-made sign pointing to Katri Vala Kulttuurikeskus, the yellow wooden building which used to be a school. Right next to it there is Murginapirtti which serves lunch on weekdays.

The cultural centre is not yet open when I arrive there but despite that I get a friendly welcome and a brief guided tour - thanks!

Katri Vala (1901-1944) was a writer, poet and teacher and one of the first poets in Finland who wrote free verse. She lived in Ilomantsi for some years both during her childhood and in 1925-29. The exhibitions in the Katri Vala Cultural Centre are in Finnish language only so it may be easier to focus on the photography and art exhibitions than on learning about Katri's life and her poems if you don't read Finnish.

Summer Night

However, some of the artwork that is related to Katri Vala's poem's may open more easily: the hall upstairs features hand woven Poetry rugs by Pauli Hiltunen. Each of them was inspired and tells a story of a poem by Katri. Even without knowing the language you can try to guess what the story is about - the summer, the spring...

Kauko Jeskanen's woodwork, each piece carved from a single block of wood only, are totally amazing. The photography exhibitions include U. Pekka Kinnunen's photos of brown bears and another one displays the local sports club's history.

I head back towards the village centre surrounded by fantastic greenness. The wooden gate at Piirolan piha handicrafts centre features two Karelian cuckoos. A walk of less than 2 km takes me to Parppeinvaara hill, right after the sports ground; there is a shortcut with wooden steps leading to the top of the beautiful hill.

At the forefront of Parppeinvaara open hilltop is the restaurant Parppeinpirtti, built in traditional Karelian style. There is Karelian buffet with traditional style food available daily in the summertime and I look forward to sampling some of that, even though I feel it is a bit overpriced (20 euros - I can only manage one plateful anyway!) but the handmade Karelian pasties are simply irresistible. ... However, I have to wait until the private function is over.

I take off my backpack and head for Mesikkä, a museum featuring a very good exhibition on local nature, especially the animal kingdom. The ticket covers entry to all musem buildings in Parppeinvaara. The Kalevala spirit is present in the exhibition. According to the first poem in Kalevala, sotka (or telkkä), Common Goldeneye laid eggs on Ilmatar's (Virgin of the Air) knee and when the eggs fell down and broke, they eventually gave birth to this world, the stars, the skies, everything.

I really enjoy the relaxing sound world of the exhibition that takes you to the depths of nature. Looking at the wolf, I start thinking about the trail - Susitaival = Wolf's Trail ahead of me. I doubt I will meet a wolf or even the King of the Forest, a bear, on the way. In this part of the world, they usually run away when sniffing or hearing people approach, and you don't have to worry about a bear attacking your food during the night.

The next building, Runonlaulajan Pirtti, is a great example of a traditional Karelian log house; this one dates to 1964. The young woman who greets me at the door is wearing a feresi, a somewhat modernised version of traditional women's dress in Karelia. I check out an exhibition on orthodox church tradition after which she surprises me with some live music! The guide takes out her kantele, a very traditional instrument that is present also in Kalevala, and starts singing and playing a wonderful lullaby. I sit down on the floor and just enjoy the soothing music. A bard! An orthodox icon is guarding the room in the corner. Soon she plays a faster song and it sounds like there are two instruments playing at the same time. This is fantastic, and a great lesson in kantele. Thank you so much for the concert!

The other buildings in the museum area include old grey log buildings that were used as store rooms. They have been transferred here from other villages. Two of them are dedicated to a famous local bard Mateli Kuivalatar who contributed a lot of the poems or songs of Kalevala. Rukapirtti tells about WW2 history and includes exquisite hand-made woodwork by soldiers, a lot of which was made during the Continuation War, especially in 1942-43.

Kaikkien Pyhien tsasouna (1980) - dedicated to All Saints - is a tiny orthodox church which was originally made for a film. It is still used by the local orthodox community.

The door to the church is open. I light a candle for my journey and glance at the Bible next to the altar. The first words that I see are (free translation from Finnish): "Even now it is possible to turn back". As if I wasn't meant to take the hike in the woods!

The museum tour done, after a good lunch and with a packet of fresh Karelian pasties in my backpack, I walk downhill from Parppeinvaara, through kujaset, a path surrounded by traditional fencing, to Pogostantie and the bus stop. Time to leave for Möhkö and Susitaival trail.

A last look over my shoulder to Parppeinvaara. Goodbye and hope to see you again soon!