Ilomantsi: Susitaival Trail, Day 1

Susitaival Trail (or Wolf's Trail) is about 96-97 km long hiking trail which runs mostly in Ilomantsi area in Northern Karelia, Finland. Its southern starting point is at the easternmost village of Finland at Möhkö, 23 km east from Ilomantsi. I step off the bus by Koitajoki river and see it take off; this was the last school day before the holidays and the bus service begins again in August. A granite war memorial greets me next to the bus stop. During WW2 in 1944, there was heavy fighting in the village area. Möhkö is extremely close to the border zone between Finland and Russia.

Susitaival Trail begins on the other side of the Möhkönkoski rapids, soon after the narrow canal, turning to the left. However, before hitting the trail I make a brief stop at Möhkö Ironworks museum (ironworks = ruukki) where the other hiker seems to be heading as well. Actually, the German-speaking hiker is asking where the trail starts because he does not have a map with him! Well, the Karjalan Kierros / Ilomantsi maps (1:100 000) are not for sale at Möhkö so getting your maps before arriving here is a must. The museum staff kindly take photocopies of my map for the other hiker but they look worried, especially when hearing that he plans to hike as far as Teljo, including both this and the Karhunpolku trail further north. "Are you sure you have enough food with you?"

I take off alone and hope the other hiker will be alright as well. The trail is pretty well marked with orange circles painted on trees and rocks, occasionally with Susitaival signs, but I prefer to carry a map to know what is ahead, where you can make a fire or find a shelter, and just in case something unexpected happens. 

For the first part I walk on dirt roads, then follow the arrow sign to the right and finally spot an orange trail mark. Entering clear felling areas means that the trees with the original trail marks are gone, but luckily they have been usually replaced with paint circles here and there. After stepping through the young birches that have taken over the trail, I land on the soft, needle-covered track that winds through different forest types, but mostly fir trees and pines, then again walk on a dirt road before returning to a narrow path.

The wonderfully wide duckboards take me easily across the mire. You don't need to have two of these side by side!

The pink flowers of bog-rosemary (suokukka) - a poisonous plant - add a touch of fresh colour on the mires. The more familiar white flowered wild rosemary is not quite yet in bloom. Walking on the mires and the heath forests is easy because the terrain is very flat.

Upon seeing the very first false morel (korvasieni) right in the middle of the path I pause for a moment but there's no way I can start picking these delicious beauties to take them home with me. Farewell, my lovely. I wonder will there be many more... Very important note: false morels are poisonous (can be even deadly!) and must not be eaten unless prepared properly.

After reaching Öykköstenvaara the scenery turns simply gorgeous. The path is on the top of the ridge which is between two lakes, Sysmä and Eteläinen Pitkäjärvi. This reminds me of Punkaharju ridges close to Savonlinna, but over here there are no cars passing me by. The only sounds are the sound of my footsteps and the occasional cuckoos from the other side of the smaller lake. Oh the beauty of this early summer eve in Karelia!

Well, someone, or rather something else has gone before me. The almost black scat includes berries - cranberries, I suppose. Possibly by a brown bear that has also taken a walk here; I am not an expert on scat.

Crossing the brook that leads to Sysmä lake is easy; there is a wooden bridge. Walking with a backpack makes you feel pretty warm so it feels great to rinse my face on the fresh water. Very soon I will arrive at an even better resting place because today's journey, a 13 km walk is close to an end.  What a good start to Susitaival! Well, I've also said goodbye to some poisonous fellows met on the way. Actually, on the path itself... 43 false morels and one black snake, a common European viper.

The wilderness hut of Pohjoinen Pitkäjärvi (Northern Long Lake) is simple yet total luxury: a fireplace both inside and outside, an outdoor toilet, and a lake right in front of it. It is a great feeling to take off the backpack which feels heavy at this point, and get ready for some rest. First some exercise with a saw and axe though, to chop some firewood (provided for free) - but thanks to the previous visitors, I'm only doing it to make some ready for the next visitor, as the custom goes. The hut gives me a welcome night's sleep, without any mosquitoes inside...