Turku: shades and shapes

Without snow, Turku is no city of light at this time of the year. Just like the rest of the country... However, the city doesn't give up. When darkness falls, you will see buildings illuminated, as well as fairy lights and Christmas trees that make their statement against the winter weariness.

Turku Cathedral - the oldest part of which dates to 13th century - stands tall. So tall, that it makes the big Xmas tree in front of its stone steps look almost tiny.

Right next to the medieval cathedral there is a lightweight construction that shines through the darkness like a huge lantern.

The Honeycomb (in Finnish: Hunajakenno) is one of the two Cots of Darkness, designed by Reino Koivula as part of the 876 Shades of Darkness project in which works of art that have been lighting up the darkness during Turku's year as European Capital of Culture. The construction is temporary and it is on display only until the end of 2011. On the opposite shore of river Aurajoki you can get a glimpse of the other cot Kokka, or Bow, that resembles half a boat sunken on the ground. It is possible to enter the cots as well but only in the late afternoon.


I walk to the other side of the river, or as the locals in their own dialect say, tois puol jokke, a saying which has its origins in the time when Turku's old city centre was right here, next to the ancient cathedral. Those days, by crossing the Aurajoki river you stepped out of the city centre.

Strolling down Läntinen Rantakatu street next to the river, I catch a glimpse of strange lights from the city library's back yard. Behind Miina Äkkijyrkkä's huge metal cow there are moving images reflected on the wall above. 

Dark Creatures, animations by local artists, are dancing on the wall. What a great open air movie theatre, be it a silent one! This work of art is also part of the 876 Shades of Darkness project.

The next day I climb back on the top of the Turku Art Museum on the top of the hill, past the Xmas tree that is decorated with tens or hundreds of reflectors and handmade decorations which have survived the hard-blowing wind.

Alright, which door to use to enter the impressive stone building? The left door handle, straight and somewhat dull without its knit graffiti serving as a woollen overcoat is warm to the touch.

However, this door is locked...

Let's try the other door on the right. Be brave! It won't bite! Careful, just take a strong hold of the bronze (and not too gentle looking) panther, grab the fierce creature by the tummy and pull the door open!

What a door handle. Welcome to Turku Art Museum...

The museum is well worth a visit in itself, but also to see the Swedish artist Carl Larsson's excellent exhibition Dreams of Harmony that shows where the ideal of an artistic Swedish home originates. What a couple Carl and his wife Karin made; without her Carl Larsson would not be best known for the beautiful watercolours that romanticize their home and lifestyle. The second floor now displays Crème de la crème, masterpieces from the museum's own collection, as well as contemporary art.

When I descend from the museum back towards the market place and the river, there is a little surprise on the right, in front of the jugend style stone building: a statue of Lenin. There aren't too many such statues in Finland on display... This one was a gift from the city of Leningrad some decades back and has managed to stay there as a reminder of, well, something. Let's look at something prettier. For example at the lovely double doors only few more steps down. A pity the door is locked so I can't see the stained glass from the inside.

Outdoors, you can spot smaller artworks on the corner buildings of the city center: Kortteligalleria project has brought the ancient names of the city blocks here also as imagery. The map beneath the artwork depicts the area where these beauties can be found - all within a short walking distance, surrounding the market place. Next to the market place you can see for example Pyöriäinen (Dolphin) (above; Jenni Tuominen) and Mehiläispesä (Beehive).

On Brahenkatu street I meet a lonely shoe. Poor thing, not nailed to the ground but still getting nowhere... Come to think of it, I'm not going anywhere, just walking about. But at least I'm moving.

Checking out the street corners and the artworks, I meet a Falcon and Sirius (left). No idea where the architect Carl Ludvig Engel got the ideas for the names, but it's nice to think that there's more names to the area than just the street names.

Great that urban artist Meiju Niskala and the team of artists came up with this, to add a bit of history with a modern twist on the streets!

At Lönnrotinpuisto park, next to Aurajoki river, the cot Kokka (by Simo Helenius) is not illuminated during the daytime, and its door is closed as well because it is not two o'clock yet. This should be seen a bit later, when it is again dark. Otherwise, I wouldn't mind seeing the sun for a change.

I cross the river to enter the old city centre and Vanha Suurtori, the Old Market Square, and its Xmas market. This is where the Declaration of Christmas Peace is pronounced at 12 o'clock noon on Xmas Eve, from the balcony of Brinkkala House above. Since Christmas Peace isn't there just yet, the area is now reserved for Xmas shopping, with local producers presenting their goodies, especially handicrafts. Even Santa Claus has joined the band playing Xmas carols for the slowly moving crowd.

I enter the yard behind the old buildings and stop for a snack. Joulupuuro, Xmas pudding (made of rice, cooked slowly) is irresistible, and I am not the only one indulging in it. Definitely cinnamon on top, yes please! This will keep me walking... And for dessert a local sausage with Xmas spices from another stall... Just like last year. This is becoming a tradition.

I come here for culture walks. Thanks Turku 2011, a great culture year!

Turku: BOXed street art

Turku, Finland, is not yet covered in snow when I start my walk in search for some 25 electricity distribution cabinets covered with artwork. BOX is one of the numerous art projects put together in celebration of Turku's year as European capital of culture in 2011 (a title which it now shares with Tallinn, Estonia).

The artists, Kati Immonen and Minna Maija Lappalainen, have artistically attacked the electricity cabinets with their own artwork in the city centre with the help of Turku artists' association and the local energy supplier, Turun Energia. My walk's first stops are found at the corner of Puolalankatu and Yliopistonkatu street (the latter is the main pedestrian / shopping street); instead of the dull grey, cabinets are covered with photos of gorgeous green tiles, red bricks that hide a secret balcony

or fire-red autumn colours that almost cover the old window panes. Next, I take a few steps towards the market place, and turn left to Aurakatu to reach the top of the hill. There should be two electricity cabinets right next to the Turku Art Museum. 

On the left of the granite steps leading to the museum there is a dog-covered electricity cabinet. Supposedly, each of them frequent this very park. What a lovely wallpaper style and wonderful dogs! But where is the other electricity cabinet? I'm sure there were to be two? I walk round the park, nothing... And step into the museum to ask where the other art cabinet could be. The first person I meet has no clue what I'm talking about, but the ticket office guy kindly googles the BOX web page for me. Silly me! There are actually two separate electricity cabinets right next to each other, and each of them is an individual work of art... Two in one...

As a consolation, I take a little break at the museum's little café. The smell of the fresh handmade cinnamon roll is far too temptating... When I look out of the window, there's no snow, but the window pane is decorated with a traditional giant snowflake made of white paper. Mmm, should I take a sheet of paper and scissors and make some for Xmas as well?

 

I find the next BOX artwork when descending the Aurakatu street, right at the corner of the market square and almost next to the old Orthodox church. Don't forget to look also at the top of the electricity cabinet! University of Turku, founded in 1920, was originally right here, and gave its name to the street (yliopisto = university), but the old building - that housed hotel Phoenix before the scholars entered - was torn down in 1959.  The black and white photographs may bring back memories to the locals both in this corner, and in the next one as well

because these photographs show what Turku market square and its surroundings really looked like some decades ago. The corner of Yliopistonkatu and Kauppiaskatu street has also changed along the years, as you can see when you walk round the cabinets. 

I feel I'm getting fixated with square shapes... So when I reach the Aurajoki river, Läntinen Rantakatu street, my eyes seem to wonder wherever there are boxes or similar shapes. The above gift box isn't an electricity cabinet hanging in the air, but a beautifully non-commercially covered sign of a boutique...

...whereas next to the library, against the protesters' tent,  the square signs tell their own story. The protesters are against inequality, and declare the essence: YOU ARE GREAT / Sinä olet UPEA.

I pass some more electricity cabinets by the Aurajoki river, and take a step back towards the market square to Aurakatu street. There are three artistic electricity cabinets next to the town hall, telling a Turku story. The tall ship shape reminds us of the magnificent Suomen Joutsen (Finland's Swan) ship which is anchored on the river, and another shows the figure of the medieval Turun Linna (Turku Castle). *The fantastic wooden structure above is a pavilion called Pudelma, designed and built by architecture students in August this year.

The third BOX reveals runners, or actually a single one: Paavo Nurmi, the most famous Flying Finn, a Turku-born record-breaking track and field athlete.

I make a detour to the market square and the Swedish Theatre (Svenska Teater) along the same Aurakatu street. Here the artwork is more classical, depicting greek pillartops. Or are they actually sinking to the ground? 

Back at the Aurajoki river, I continue my search for more BOXes. Flower shapes, ornaments, details... But I wish I had a map on which the artwork was marked because before setting off, I only scribbled down a list of the streets on which they were supposed to be found.

This  becomes apparent when I try to find a BOX on the other side of the river, next to the city theatre. Perhaps I just miss it, or maybe I don't? I wonder if this grey electricity cabinet has featured some art on it at some point? Or maybe not, hard to tell. Anyway, these grey or green electricity cabinets seem more and more dull without the artwork!

BOX is attempting to make ordinary, dull objects more appealing and at the same time more noticeable. It works.

It is hard to tell how many Turku citizens have actually noticed that something along their regular walking route has changed, but I certainly hope they have, or will do that, on a very dull or beautiful day, when the sun shines from the right angle. I'm so glad these artistic electricity cabinets will remain even after the end of 2011 when Turku hands over its title as one of the two European capitals of culture.

I haven't quite managed to find all the 25 electricity cabinets but that's ok. It's time to focus on other than square shapes for a while. A beautiful round shape, perhaps? A perfect latte with a velvety taste at  Cafe Art is a great ending to a little artistic walk.