Mikkeli: visit to Naisvuori

The sun smiles at me, almost surprisingly (rain is a frequent guest these days), when I start walking towards Naisvuori hill from the market square at Mikkeli in south Savo. Walking along Maaherrankatu street something strikes me on the asphalt. There are some words embedded on the pavement. In front of the optician's shop it says optikko, 

whereas by the goldsmith shop Oskari Laitinen the pavement says kelloja (clocks), koruja (jewellery) and kihloja (engagement rings). A great combination of advertising and street art ;-) After crossing the street, I notice a plaque attached on the pillar of the corner building. The oldest sports club in the greater Savo region, currently called Mikkelin Ampujat ry (Mikkeli Shooting Club) was founded in the inn that was right here back in 1886. What a pity that the inn doesn't exist anymore. 

The park on my right is called Kirkkopuisto (Church Park) but the wooden church is long gone, having been destroyed by fire. The only remaining building in the park is the open-air stage which is quite neat.

The view from the stage opens towards the fountain and the happy birds that are rising from the water. Behind them, you can spot the glass roof of the fairly new shopping center Stella which replaced the old small market hall and the bus station. The new bus station is now located by the railway station.

I join the "line" of solitary walkers that is crossing the park diagonally to Maaherrankatu. The yellow autumn leaves add a dash of colour to the green lawns. I soon arrive at the corner of Maunukselankatu street and spot the sign to Naisvuori hill which has for a while been hidden behind the apartment buildings.

Below the steep rock there are quite a few plants - like a somewhat wild rock garden. In the winter, the garden is resting, but during the early summer, you can see rhododendrons in bloom.

Right now the Virginia creeper is painting the view flaming red, to add more fire to the autumn colours.

The granite steps that lead to the top of Naisvuori hill make it easy to climb up but I wouldn't recommend high heels for this route.

This must be the first time I see a tree like this in Finland but I instinctively think it must be a yew tree. They do not grow wild in Finland! The bright red berries look very inviting but I remember from some Agatha Christie novel that they are poisonous.

When I see the colourful plastic thingy on top of Naisvuori hill, my first thought is that it must be a work of art. However, a small sign in Finnish next to it says something about a playground... So it must be simply a climbing frame for kids.

The solitary statue by the observation tower seems to be covering his eyes from the sun, looking into the distance. The plaque is hardly legible but in the end I can decipher a word: vaeltaja, a wanderer. Naisvuori actually means 'women's hill'. I wonder how come the statue is of a man, instead of a woman.

Unfortunately the observation tower at the very top of Naisvuori hill is only open during the summer months so there is no hope of sipping a cup of tea there or of enjoying the best possible view over Mikkeli from up there. However, there is a pretty good view towards the city centre also from the foot of the observation tower.

A wide path winds down from the top of the hill to a square where you can read the story of Naisvuori hill in Finnish. A restaurant pavilion was built on the hill in the 1880's but alcohol was banned from its menu. Why? Naisvuori was seen as the only place where women could enjoy the sweetness of summer and the beautiful view without fear of being disturbed! The water tower by architect Selim A. Lindqvist was built in 1912 but it hasn't held water since the 1950's.

After passing the open-air summer theatre on my right, the first building I meet is Naisvuoritalo which looks like it must be used for parties. This place has also military history like many others in Mikkeli: the plaque on the wall says that Finnish Military Telegraph battalion was founded here in 1918.

Lower down by Mikonkatu, I spot a text in an old fashioned font on the wall. Mikkelin Telefooniyhdistys (Mikkeli Telephone Company makes me think about the times before cell phones, when telegraphs poles and wires were what you needed to carry messages across the land.

I arrive back at the city centre but not all buildings that I meet here are modern either. Kannattaa ajatella miten kannattaa ajatella, or it is worth thinking what is worth thinking, it says on the windows of the corner building of Savilahdenkatu and Mikonkatu streets. My first thought is that I hope that this beautiful wooden building gets lovingly renovated. Soon.

The paint is of course beautifully worn and a work of art in itself but it doesn't really protect the wood beneath it...

My last stop before getting back to the market square is Taito Shop arts & crafts store. One of the items for sale there is a city map in the form of underpants - available already in some Finnish cities, also in Jyväskylä. When I look at the underpants more closely, I see that Naisvuori hill is also listed as one of the few attractions that have been especially marked in black. Pants don't lie; Naisvuori is worth visiting when in Mikkeli.

Jyväskylä Culture Trail 2012

Whether hard rain's gonna fall or not, I'm going out; Kulttuurisuunnistus is the annual Culture Trail event in Jyväskylä, with different checkpoints scattered around town, to be explored at your own pace and by choosing your own route. The checkpoints change somewhat each year but always include stops at museums and art galleries along the way. This year it is possible to visit 14 different places on the afternoon of 30 Sep. However, the weather may prove to be too wet for some... When I enter the city centre, there are only few walkers and cyclists about. It is better to focus on the beautiful colours of the fallen leaves than the raindrops that keep falling on my head...

For some reason I end up choosing the furthest checkpoint as my first destination: Vaajakoski is about 8 km from the city centre. Perhaps not the wisest choice on a rainy day, but who cares... The river Tourujoki flows slowly, with the surrounding trees dropping their yellow leaves to the water at equally relaxed pace. At least I get to enjoy the lakeside footpath for many kilometers to start with.

The grey clouds hang above the skyline of Jyväskylä and the lake Jyväsjärvi. When you look at he view is as if the reeds were the only spot of colour today. On the other side of the footpath, I suddenly hear the Halssila church bells chime 12 times through the hum of the motorway. It is the official starting time of the Cultural Trail event but I had to make an early start because of wanting to do it on foot between 12 and 4 pm - and even then I may not be able to visit many places because of choosing the longest possible route.

Leaving lake Jyväsjärvi behind, I ascend from Rauhalahti to Vaajakoskentie road, passing beneath two roads. Young artists have been at work, probably without being commissioned by the city of Jyväskylä. I wonder what the fierce looking fish is dreaming of.

Step by step, puddle by puddle I march on. The sidewalk is right next to the road for most of the way which means that I have to be on the lookout for cars - the road has had its share of rain as well. Knowing that I'll need to cover some distance within a limited time, and having to keep the raincoat hood on for most of the time, this will be a different type of walk to my usual ones: my eyes will most likely catch fewer new things while I'm on the move. It means more time for thinking, of course. I meet an older man who is walking towards me, without a raincoat or umbrella. He is asking how many kilometres is it to Viherlandia Garden Centre - in English. Three, perhaps a bit more, I venture, and wish it stopped raining for a while, if only just for him.

Oh where art thou, Resiina Arts & Crafts shop? I walk past the roundabout at Vaajakoski, through the underpass with the bright coloured graffiti from 2011. I take shelter under a tree and open the wrinkled Culture Trail map, published by the local newspaper Keskisuomalainen, and wonder how I'll manage to keep it dry enough all day. The map is far from detailed and I have to turn to my cellphone to find the address and the exact location of Checkpoint 14. OK, it is on the other side of the railroad tracks...

Walking back towards Vaajakoski center, I again get a good look at the paintings on the underpass walls. This is probably the only place where I can catch a rainbow today!

Resiina is located at Asematie (asema = station, tie = road). The wooden building used to be Vaajakoski railway station but passengers haven't been seen stepping on or off trains here for many years. If I remember correctly, the village was originally called Haapakoski but when the railroad was built in the early 20th century, the station was renamed Vaajakoski because another station called Haapakoski already existed in Eastern Finland. I step inside the Arts & Crafts shop Resiina which I've never visited before. There are lots of local handmade products for sale, ranging from jewellery, ceramics, toys and clothes to art. I open my map, get a stamp at number 14 and answer a question that relates to the place. Those who have visited at least 4 Culture Trail stops this afternoon can enter a lucky draw to win culture related prizes.

Resiina offers a chance to walks on stilts on the yard but prefer my own feet... After this, I'll simply walk the +8 kilometres back to Jyväskylä city centre to visit the next checkpoint. Unfortunately the Panda licorice and chocolate factory store next door is closed today so I can't get any fresh local candy from there, to keep me going... However, honouring local produce, I get some Panda licorice from a grocery store on the way. The rain has stopped for now and I enjoy walking without the hood on for a while. I know I would be able to visit more Culture Trail places if I caught a bus to town but why not just keep walking, it's not that far anyway...

Unfortunately the rain returns slightly fiercer. When I arrive at Tourula, there is a choice of visiting an Arts & Crafts Centre for the young or continuing my walk straight to the harbour, to do a walking fitness test. Guess what? I opt for the arts. It means stepping inside from the rain for a while. The door handle to Taitokeskus is decorated with a cool knit graffiti, made of Granny Squares. Target number two for me.

The Arts & Crafts centre is surprisingly quiet, compared to what I've seen it on other such occasions. The rain must be the one to blame, keeping most people within a shorter distance to the city centre. I do a short tour inside and step back into the rain, heading for Veturitallit.

Veturitallit (veturi=locomotive, tallit=garages) building was forgotten for many years but luckily it wasn't torn down. The building has just gone through careful renovation and its doors have only recently been opened to the public - and it is meant to be a meeting place for the young, culture and creativity. Its location is ideal: only few steps from the railway / bus station, thus easily accessible.

I wander inside the red brick walls for the first time ever. The answer to question number 12 on my Culture Trail map can be found on the other side of this wall: the oldest part of Veturitallit dates back to 1897.

The great colours of the chairs and sofas in the large lounge match this season perfectly. It is as if the colours were picked from the autum leaves. Before leaving, I stop also at the photography gallery Ratamo at the other end of the building - didn't know there was a gallery here! - and have a cup of hot tea at the coffee shop. The first one on this walk. Where to next?

My fourth destination is Finnish Broadcasting Corporation (or YLE for short) right at the heart of Jyväskylä, on Kauppakatu. The staff gives tours in the premises at 15-20 minute intervals, showing also the works of art that are usually hidden to the public. The question here is: is there a nursery, lock-up or a library at YLE? My very first guess is correct: a library. It refers to this work of art by Jussi Heikkilä, titled The Library. Very bookish! I think of the Acropolis.

My journey continues along Kauppakatu street to Finnish Craft Museum where I need to solve a mystery: how many pieces of soap are included in Anu Tuominen's work of art which features, well, quite a few soap boxes! After careful examination my conclusion is that the (only) green piece is soap, and the others are rocks.

On the other side of the Kilpisenkatu street, at Jyväskylä Art Museum Holvi, it is possible to walk on a hand made green meadow (with shoes off, naturally), among other things. Anyone who wanted to try their hand at crocheting could contribute to this work of art a few weeks ago, and this is what became of those squares! I wonder where my couple of rows are hidden.

Next, I decide to visit another place I've never been to before, the Central Finland Art Council's office at Keskustie, but although I manage to find the right door as well as the doorbell downstairs, the front door to the building won't open. OK. Better luck next time.

It is getting closer to 4 pm already, but I've still got time to stop by the City Theatre at Kilpisenkatu where many groups have today enjoyed a free tour around the building, with peeks behind the curtains, the dressing rooms, etc. Unfortunately I'm too late to join such a tour. However, I need to solve another question here. How old is the City Theatre building this year? The copper plate on the wall outside with architect Alvar Aalto's signature is cryptic - "theatre 1964-1982" but the correct answer is 30 years.

In the corner of Cygnaeuksenkatu and Hannikaisenkatu streets, I finally enter my last destination of this Culture Tour: Toivolan Vanha Piha (old Toivola courtyard) which is celebrating its inauguration today. The newest attraction in Jyväskylä includes old wooden buildings from the late 19th century, full of life once again.

The courtyard is still being finalized but you can already see that it will be great later. The flagpole has clearly been carved by hand with an axe! I enter a side building and get the last stamp of the day to my Culture Trail map and hand it it, very wrinkled and partly wet. The rain has stopped, finally...and so has my Culture Trail.

I hear Toivola has been crowded all day. No wonder! There are quite a few interesting people working here, as well as things to see (and buy): there is a blacksmith, a goldsmith,  a photographer, an upholsterer, a great wool shop...  The coffee shop Muisto will however be opened only later. I know I'll definitely return here.

For today only, there is however a temporary coffee shop, with pancakes and doughnuts etc., parked by the side of the yard. A French touch in an old Finnish yard...

Before returning home I stop to grab one more cultural memory at Kirkkopuisto park. Äkkigalleria has another temporary exhibition there: South African Patricia Driscoll has spent a while at Jyväskylä at an artist's residence and taken most of the photographs on display here during that time. The opening of her short exhibition took place on 21 Sep, 2012 exactly when a double rainbow appeared across the sky. 

The feeling for Driscoll's paintings is intensifed today, with water dripping down everywhere, as water is a strong element in her photos also. I take a last look (probably!) at my favourite photograph with the blue feather - you never know when the exhibition disappears and the adverts for concerts and art museums reclaim their own space back. Äkkigalleria pops up for a short while wherever there is a suitable space available.

I walk wherever there is a suitable trail available. Be it short or long. However, I wouldn't mind a change of clothes now, from these wet into dry ones...

Jyväskylä: Guerrilla Lighting 2012

Place: Naissaari, Vaajakoski, Central Finland. The Guerrillas of Light have already distributed the white light bags to create a wide corridor to the main entrance of Wanha Paja, the old workshop which today houses a design store specialized in candles and home décor. Soon we hear the sound that signals the rest of the lights to be switched on and the building is bathing in carefully planned lighting. Wow! The almost full moon above is joining in the light show.

The still lights are not all we get. Three people strike a pose in front of the building and they are "painted" with light - but properly only to those serious photographers with good tripods and skills good enough to catch it all on a memory card. At least the official photographer for the City of Light, Juhana Konttinen has made sure he gets it right.

At another signal, the handheld lights pointed towards the Wanha Paja building are off again. The light guerillas pick up the white bags of light and the yard returns to the dark yard that it was before being specially illuminated for us. Our guide lifts up her light stick and leads us to a nearby bridge, to wait for the next target of Guerrilla Lighting to be lit in front of our eyes.

On a normal night, the hydropower plant of Vaajakoski is not much more than a set of illuminated windows, and a dark silhouette against the night sky. However, the Guerillas intend to show us something different. Ready, set, go!

At the signal, the red-brick hydropower plant becomes alive by the power of light. What a difference these hand-held lights can make to a scenery. The lighting designer Annukka Larsen must have planned this carefully. Red and green work so well in the darkness. Soon the lights are off again and we are to walk to our next destination. What is it and where?

We turn back and advance slowly for about 500 meters, enjoying the dark evening full of lights - if only here and there, and for a short moment only. Our target is on the other side of Vaajakoski canal lock but there is a footbridge that goes across it. The water is perfectly still inside the lock; around it, the Vaajavirta stream is running noisily.

The large crowd of spectators is moving past the canal lock, heading to the opposite shore where we are promised the best possible view of the last Guerrilla Lighting target for tonight.

 

We walk past the old hydropower plant dating back to 1920. The building, Wanha Woimala (Old Plant) is no longer in its original use but instead it houses art exhibitions or it can be rented for private parties. The building looks pretty nice already without the Guerrillas, but I suppose the large windows are not always lit in the evenings. 

We all take our positions; the Guerrillas with their lights, the cameramen and -women with their tripods and the spectators with anticipation. And for the last time this evening, the sound signals for the lights to appear, pointing towards the stream and the Wanha Woimala building. Darkness on the edge of town has turned to light that is dancing in the dark.

The Guerilla Lighting of 2012 at Jyväskylä, the City of Light, has once again made a wonderful difference to a September evening. Simply magical!

Guerrilla Lighting , Valon kaupunki 25.9.2012