Jyväskylä: Art to handle

Something catches my eye on the advertising stand in front of the Craft Museum of Finland, Kauppakatu street, Jyväskylä. On top of it, actually. Has someone dropped something? Apparently not; this little hand-made decoration is there on purpose: to attract the passers-by. Although I'm no fan of pink lacy things, it is still something sweet. I wonder if there's anything else that's small but still noticeable nearby?

Oh yes. The door handle to the Craft Museum itself - wearing a knit graffiti in burnt orange. If I remember right, the door handle has a new outfit; the last one before this was striped. So this is a spring costume.

Round the corner, on Kilpisenkatu street, the Craft Museum is showcasing stylish printed fabrics by a local designer, Kaisi Koivumäki who has created also some dioramas in the "Näytönpaikka" display window. Each of them tells its own fairytale story, with her fabrics in the background.

On the worn wood-covered door handle to the office of the Craft Museum there is a tiny pink crocheted flower. Let's see what else can be found in the door handles nearby.

There's a yarn shop up the same street. However, Titityy's door handle isn't wearing a knit graffiti (and I was already expecting to see one!)... But of course it's quite elegant in itself.

I walk down half a block and step into the first pedestrian street in Jyväskylä: Keskustie. This yarn shop is proud to present its name, Poppeli (Poplar) in the handmade felt cover of the wide, otherwise boring door handle.

Further down, on the corner of Kauppakatu and Gummeruksenkatu streets, there is a most stylish door handle decoration; the door now leads to an insurance company's premises but there was a Gummerus book shop until the early 1980's. Gummerus, founded in 1872, still continues as a publishing house.

Well, not all is as unique as that. Unfortunately the most common door handle type on Kauppakatu street is the boring aluminium one that has been attached to far too many doors, even in buildings that definitely are from a different, much earlier era.

I walk up Kauppakatu and turn back without meeting another good-looking door handle until I step on the other side of the street. This is sure to be an original one! Thank you for not upgrading to a newer model.

When I come to the bar Vihreä haltijatar / La fée verte there's a beautifully shaped wooden door handle, but it's had its share of the weather. Luckily, the next door in the same building is still in decent condition.

Kauppakatu 17 A door handle is also an original one, showing where exactly the inhabitants and visitors have taken hold of it over the years.

Walking on Kauppakatu street, I meet a couple more original wooden door handles. Only few steps to Kilpisenkatu, a neat round one still remains even if the door itself has been slightly vandalized by someone scribbling on it.

Back on Kauppakatu, Asuntogalleria estate agency's door handle is of a familiar type, just like the one that is decorated with a woollen flower.

Little things can indeed make a difference. Like a nice door handle, with or without decorations.

Imatra: Risuniemi nature trail

Risuniemi nature trail is on on the border of Imatra and its neighbour community Ruokolahti in South Carelia, and not too far from Finland's border to Russia either. This seems to be a quiet spot; the car park hasn't seen a snowplough all this winter.  However, once we reach the trail map on the snow-covered square, the 2.5 km route seems perfectly clear.

The previous snowshoer must have been here a couple of days ago at least, but at least he or she has been showing the way and it is nice to follow a ready made path for a while. There are 26 information boards on the trail in Finnish, telling about the nature along the route.

A fallen tree is blocking the path that follows a small road but that's ok. It is easy to go round it wearing snowshoes. The forest around the path is mostly coniferous but there are also lots of bare, leafy trees.

The trail crosses an estate that was originally owned by Gallén family. The buildings have been torn down already but there are still signs of human life in their old back yard. What remains are a couple of old cars, well, parked at the back yard. To rot. The Ford Anglias and a Cortina remain there to show that cars don't rot that easily.

Amidst the other trees there are a couple of beautiful Siberian larches, the oldest of which was planted back in 1921.

The path winds into the forest, then back to the edge of the yard where some small-leaved limes have taken over; two of them are resting peacefully on the ground, and the others are reaching high above. What's the sound? Ah, it's a black woodpecker!

A snowmobile has also tried the trail, making the snow way harder beneath my feet. As we reach the lakeshore, the snowmobile trail continues onto the lake while we continue on foot on the shore. A Finnish spitz is enjoying a leisurely jog on the ice, as much as the cross country skiers are enjoying their late round on the lake.

The nature trail information board at Saunalahti tells us that there used to be a saw mill around here: Immola Saw Mill. It was closed before the Winter War that began in 1939. All is quiet on this front - and the snow-covered lake is bathing in the late afternoon light. We follow the red trail marks back into the forest.

This is a sure sign of the spring being on its way: the snow is no longer pure and white but it is dotted with needles and tiny branches fallen from the trees. The golden sunlight shines through the evergreens, makes patterns on the crust of snow. We advance step by step onto the tallest ridge and then descend back to Lake Saimaa.

The information board number 17 says this is a scenic spot and you can also make a fire here (with landowners's permission). There are a couple of benches under the snow, and the even without the huge Stora Enso paper and board mill on the shore opposite there is a view here. Anyway, it is a place for a bit of rest. Or it would be, if it weren't so late in the afternoon... There's no chance for us to make a fire and stop for a snack.

Just think about this in the summertime, a beautiful lake; just block out the steam or smoke from the paper/board mill. The trail continues along the lakeshore and there is a very nice looking cross country skiing track there...

Towards the end of the trail I can feel exhaustion stepping in. The crust of snow breaks beneath my snowshoes, but I know that had I been here in the morning, after a very cold night, it would have carried me easily. I manage only seven steps, not consecutive ones, without my snowshoes falling in. This time I would welcome poles, but as usual, I don't have them with me...

The sun is almost down. The trailmarks lead us to a signpost that says E10, marking the European Long Distance Path! So this is where the E10 goes, between Ruokolahti and Imatra. We're only a short distance from the starting point of Risuniemi trail, and keep following the red paint marks on the trees. Underneath our feet there is now either a narrow trail or a a little road. I can well imagine how beautiful it is here in the summer...

Meandering at Mikkeli

I stand next to Mikkeli market place and turn my head to the end of the pedestrian street, Hallituskatu. The steeple of the red brick church is reaching towards the sky on a small hill.

Up we go; granite steps lead to the neo-gothic Mikkeli cathedral that makes me think about Harry Potter films, even if its features are not as sinister.  The sign at the front door warns about ice falling from the steep roof, and not in vain. While I'm standing there, a  large clump of hard snow crashes on the ground behind the warning sign. A sure sign of spring coming!

I continue my walk behind the church and descend on Otto Mannisen katu street, named after the Finnish writer, translator and poet Otto Manninen who made his career during the first half of 20th century. Behind the wooden fence, another artist's work greets me from a tree.

Round the corner, Puistokatu street is lined on this side with wooden buildings. I stop to gaze at the tiniest river shape in the melting ice, carved across the frozen pavement by the water drops from the drainpipe.

On the other side of the wooden fence, there are speech bubbles on the wall. "Koira." ("A dog.") "Saako silittää?" ("Can I stroke it?") "Sä oot kaunis." ("You're beautiful.") This must be an art garden or something like that!

On the left, I discover another piece of art hanging from a leafless old oak tree. A mysterious, leafy lady is swinging quietly. A sign on the yard reveals that the wooden building houses an art school for children and young people, as well as art classes for adults.

No wonder the speech bubbles greet me on the walls. "Moi"! "Hello!" On the other side of the yard, there are some university buildings for more serious students.

However, the building next to children's art school is also dedicated to art. Mikkelangelot, a local art society, has its facilities here, as well as Mikkeli Centre of Photography. The rhyming sign next to the doorbell politely implies: "Ring the bell, wait a while /And you can enter / art in style" or something like that... On the broom that leans on the wall, someone has scribbled that the first to enter must sweep the stairs! I step inside the Mikkeli Centre of Photography but find it is deserted, except for the two men doing some renovation work. I check out the wall of photographs and return back outside.

On the other side of the street there is a football field below the street level, totally covered with snow of course. A cross-country skiing track has been made around the football pitch - skiing is about the only thing you can do there at this time of the year!

I turn back and follow Ristimäenkatu street which is named after the church (risti = cross, mäki = hill, mäen = genitive of 'mäki')  and stop to have a look at a solitary pillar which isn't attached to a fence although it should be. Poor man, carrying the heavy load on his back. What is your story?

At the corner of Ristimäenkatu and Hallituskatu streets, the posters insist that I must visit the corner building, Mikkeli Art Museum. Today the museum features Southern Savo regional exhibition, besides the permanent exhibitions in the impressive granite building that represents Art Nouveau style. The welcome is friendly and I get a brief introduction to both the museum and its exhibits. The building was first a post office but before becoming a museum, it has also served as a police station, including some jail cells!

A local or regional art exhibition may not sound like much but the works of some artists are really impressive, notably those of Nadia Zubareva and the human sculptures made of metal net; Anna-Liisa Kuosmanen's fabulous red double bass woven of willow;  Pippa Laurio's black and white works that create an illusion of being three dimensional, and Pirjo Vartiainen's autumnal willowherb painting in its fantastic colours.

The exhibitions is really refreshing and I return to the market place with a light step. The market place itself, right in the center of Mikkeli, is actually frozen for ice skaters so I'm surprised not to see anyone skating there on this beautiful day.

Mikkeli boasts of a new shopping centre Stella that was opened last November. The shopping centre meant saying goodbye to the old, small market hall (which was supposed to be temporary but had stayed there for decades). Something was left of the old days: the renovated gate buildings still guard the entrance to the new shopping paradise. I walk through the spacious, glass-covered square and enter a smaller adjacent building behind it to find the small shops of which most were found also in the now demolished market hall. These shopkeepers now have their stalls in a building that was earlier used for handling parcels sent by bus. Just a little bit of history left... Time for a cup of coffee or tea in one of the nearby coffee shops!

Snowshoeing at Koli: Ukko-Koli - Mäkrä

In the winter, you can best enjoy the gorgeous scenery from Koli's highest point Ukko-Koli by taking the snowshoeing track that starts right next to the Koli hilltop hotel and Visitor Center Ukko. The idea really is to wear snowshoes! "The summits' snowshoe trail 1.5 km. Please, do not walk on the snowshoe trail without snowshoes."

I'm glad to find a well marked snowshoe trail because the summits' path is buried under a thick layer of snow, currently about 60 centimeters. It feels right not to leave your own snowshoe footprints outside the trail when we're this close to the hotel and naturally, it is lighter to tread on a ready track.

However, a marked trail doesn't mean that it equals to a wide highway, despite the fact that there is a hotel right next door and guided snowshoeing tours are also organized here. Thanks to the blizzards, the track can be quickly covered in snow and you will then appreciate the bright pink route marks. Following them, you can easily find your way even if you're the first to walk on the fresh snow.

During the the first part of the trail we walk in the shadow of tall spruces that are covered by thick layers of snow and ice. This is typical to Koli area.

On the right side of the path I get a glimpse of bare rock on which the winter sun has already managed to melt a row of icicles from the snow above. That can only happen on a sunny day!

The way the snow behaves here is extraordinary and it has a special name in Finnish: tykkylumi (snow=lumi). Tykkylumi snow doesn't fall off the trees but it sticks to them, and the combination of snow and ice is pretty heavy, often making the trees and branches to bend and break. This kind of snow also sculpts interesting shapes in the nature and you can find whatever creatures around you. Also a slightly unhappy snow angel.

Today the scenery is painted by different shades of white and grey, but what can you expect when the weather forecast only promised more and more snowflakes to fall from the sky!

Above one pink trail mark there's a tiny spot of colour: a polypore the brown cap of which resembles one of my favourite mushrooms, cep.

If you take a peek under one of the tall spruces and look above, you get to see how beautifully the branches are outlined by the snow. That's something you can't see any other time of the year. And what a neat hiding place and shelter there is under the cover of those branches that reach onto the ground!

The summits' trail crosses another trail that nobody has yet today walked or skied on. If I were to continue the summits' trail, it would soon turn back to the hotel, following the eastern side of Koli hill... I don't feel like going back just yet, so I turn right and make my footprints on the hidden, wide snow-covered track leading downhill.

The trail descends to Mäkränaho clearing on the other side of which there is an old grey barn which hasn't been used for storing hay for decades. I'm on familiar ground; beneath my feet is  Herajärvi trail, popular among hikers when the snow is gone - but very few attempt to do the whole 40-60 km route in the winter.

The traditional, unpainted barn has aged beautifully and when you look at the details, you can see that no nails have been used in its construction. The barn welcomes visitors who are seeking for shelter from the weather or have a snack but you are not allowed to spend a night here or make a fire; there are other places reserved for that purpose at a bit further.

Should I turn back or go further? The trail continues downhill, with only a solitary skier's ski track printed on the snow. I decide to snowshoe a bit further (being careful not to trample on the skiing track) towards Mäkrävaara hill, or at least to Purolanaho clearing which isn't too far. I know I'm going to pay for the now easy descent when returning to Ukko-Koli hill...

Purolanaho is another small clearing in the middle of the dark evergreen trees. I discover a snowshoe track from before the last blizzard. Should I follow it to Ikolanaho and its outdoor fireplace, keeping me at more level ground, or choose a scenic spot up at Mäkrä instead? The solitary cross-country skier has not given up although the terrain is getting harder...

Despite the fact that there is a fairly long ascent ahead before reaching Mäkrä hilltop, I go for it. The map tells me that the cross-country skiing track is marked black, being the most difficult kind, and I suddenly remember a skiing trip here, and how hard it was to get up there. So, better take it easy, stop every now and then and breath deeply. At least I'll have plenty of time to watch and listen to the frozen nature around me - the snow and ice-laden spruces make eerie sounds in the wind.

Finally I reach the first scenic spot at Mäkrä hill! The highest point of Mäkränvaara (307 m) is very close by but I'm content (and out of breath) enough right here. The February sun is still hiding behind the clouds but some silvery light filters through them to brighten the scenery around me, if only for a while. Behind the trees, you can get a fuzzy view of the large, frozen Lake Pielinen. The long, narrow islands become visible for a second, then they disappear under the blizzard. I am visiting a very quiet winter wonderland.

The return journey to Ukko-Koli offers first an enjoyable descent from Mäkrä to Purolanaho but after that the snowshoes feel heavier as I climb back up to the Summits' trail. It was just a little detour to Mäkrä... Although forbidden here, someone has dragged his or her skis up here and gone off piste down the rocky Koli hillside. Another blizzard seems to be approaching from a distance.

I meet a fellow walker, of a silent sort. The tykkylumi snow covered trees are swaying and creaking in the wind, talking winter Koli language. The views from Koli hills are not as magnificent on this grey-whitish day as they would be on a clear day but I don't mind. There's something about Koli, labeled as one of the national landscapes in Finland, that simply touches you, no matter the weather.

To end the snowshoeing trip I enter the visitor center Ukko for a cup of warming, local herbal tea and to enjoy Tea Karvinen's great photos she took in different national parks over one year. The photography exhibition will move on from Koli to other visitor centers of Finnish national parks over the next years.

P.S. Koli is stunning even in a blizzard but visiting the hilltop two days later on a sunny day the landscape looks even more magnificent...