Muurame: Muuramenjoki nature trail

Muuramenjoki nature trail is located in Muurame, Central Finland, only about 13 km south from the centre of its neighbouring city Jyväskylä. Before arriving here I was sure to meet a tiny, slowly flowing river so when I step down to it from Muurame's civic center by Virastotie street, I get a pleasant surprise. Is this really Muurame river or Muurame rapid?

Very soon I meet the first, slightly dirty nature trail sign which tells about the area's cultural heritage in Finnish. The buildings in front of me belonged to a furniture factory which started here in 1910. The red brick building housed a steam power plant in the old days but is today only used for storage. The white building behind it was originally taller, but its two top floors were destroyed by a fire in 1970 and only the ground floor remained. Today, the building is part of the fire station. 

I find an old, big millstone that has retired from active service decades ago and is now resting on the green grass in front of the former furniture factory. The mill was located on the other side of Muurame river but the building was torn down at the end of the 1950's. The building which housed the mill had earlier served also as an umbrella factory and a dairy.

The riverbank is steep and partly collapsed to the river; therefore there is red and yellow caution tape to stop anyone stepping too far. When I enter the footbridge to cross the river, I smell a bit of smoke. There is a fading fire close to the offical start of the nature trail, perched on a rock that could well be another millstone as this is where the mill used to be; the two fishermen have apparently had a break here. They have been fly fishing - with not too much success so far - and are getting ready to move to another spot further down.

The nature trail (luontopolku) sign indicates that I should head off the riverbank. However, I am not ready to leave Muurame river just yet but decide to follow another footpath that will lead me further upstream, to the bridge that I see in the distance. I'm simply so pleased to be walking by this beautiful stream that I don't want to leave it just yet.

This autumn has been very rainy in Central Finland, just like previous year. The water level in lakes normally goes down in the autumn but for two consecutive years now it's been the opposite. If there are also heavy snowfalls in the winter, it means that the water levels will remain very high also next spring. When I look at white water in Muurame river now, I can imagine this is what it could be like on a normal spring. The river flows from Muuratjärvi lake to Päijänne, descending 12 meters on the way, so it is no wonder the water flows pretty fast. The shallow river doesn't seem fit for kayaking because of the rocks but it is very popular among fishermen.

The path takes me up to Muuramentie road and right next to the bridge across the river. The large windows reveal that the wooden building must have been a shop earlier. Today it is home to Piano Jylhä.

The engraving on the stone bridge dates it back to 1898 when Finland was still part of Russia.

When I look upstream from the bridge towards Muuratjärvi lake the river seems to flow very gently.

However, immediately after the bridge the river seems to catch speed so there must be a bit of a drop already. The wooden construction on the right has been used for guiding floating logs downstream - no idea when that ended here. So glad I walked up here to get a good view of the stream from above!

I return downstream and follow the nature trail for a while through a now barren meadow - with all leaves having already fallen down - but hear the river calling me again. The opposite shore reveals the former furniture factory building I passed earlier. Fly fishing continues in this spot; the river is mostly very shallow but right in front of me the water is 5 meters deep, giving a better chance for catching fish. However, it seems that the fish are not in the mood for the elaborately made flies today.

If the fast flowing water has attacked the sandy riverbank a bit too fiercely, these poor birches have been victims of unthinking humans. If you want to make a fire, bring some kindling with you. There are shops only some hundred meters from here if you come unprepared. Never cut birch bark from a living tree! It doesn't grow back quickly but the trees stay like this.

Behind the old birches the water is totally still, reflecting the trees like a huge mirror. A total change of atmosphere from the more noisy white water only a little distance away! I slow down my step and find it is a wise decision because the duckboards are even more slippery than I anticipated. Watch your step!

The quiet waters have risen very high here. Some of the duckboards and part of the wooden bridge across to the other side of the river have suffered somewhat...

Despite the bridge being even partly under water, it is great to cross it and admire the scenery on the way. Some ingenious soul has kindly brought a wide board here as temporary help, to enable us to to walk across without getting your shoes wet.

A meadow, then a swamp. Such a great place - so many different faces to it within such a short distance from each other!

Walking a bit further along the path, the water is wonderfully still and here it looks like this is a small lake.

Therefore I get another surprise when the path reaches another bridge. The white water flows down so fast! Earlier, the dam blocked access for the migrating fish that would have wanted to swim upstream but then a fishway was built on the right side. In the fishway, the water doesn't flow as aggressively and even fish which are not as strong swimmers are able to get upstream. How kind!

I listen to the rumble of the white water which soon fades away as I return to the still waters. The nature trail is a circular route and very soon I arrive where I started from. Before that, there is a bit of a damp patch which indicates that if the water level keeps rising, the trail will need to be moved a bit higher.

Muurame river nature trail is a real gem that is worth a visit any time of the year. I can hardly wait to see it when the snow has fallen and the river is at least partly frozen, or in early summer, surrounded by the fresh shades of green, or in September-October when the leaves are turning yellow!

Tampere: A peek at Pispala

An absolutely gorgeous autumn sun shines on Pispala, Tampere and lures me towards the shore of lake Pyhäjärvi. I follow Isolähteenkatu street to the lakeside and pass a weird-looking handmade construction. A children's nature play ground under construction - Do not damage!, says the sign. All the "equipment" seems to be made of natural materials, with a huge spider's web woven of rags.

There is a light breeze blowing from lake Pyhäjärvi. I take a right turn because it will allow me to enjoy the joys of Pispala much longer - I'll probably need to return towards town the same way...

What I see above me on the footpath is no ordinary mess of branches but a work of art. I am glad this wooden "ball" is hanging high enough so no one can reach it without a ladder because it is made of kiehinen which are great when lighting up a fire!

Quite a few of the rowing boats have already been turned upside down for the winter but some are still ready for use. No wonder, the lake seems far from ready to freeze just yet. I'd love to go on the lake! But not without a boat of course, the water is already freezing cold.

I enjoy the afternoon light and take a look at my right, my left, my right, my left. On the left there is the lake, on the right the famous Pispala with its houses, gardens and history. Suddenly I meet a sign that says Kävelytestin kääntöpaikka, or Turning point for walking test. Glad this is no test but an ordinary walk so I can keep going.

A group of rowan trees brightens the side of the footpath. Suddenly I realize there is something odd in this particular tree; the color of the berries is not that of the typical rowan trees in Finland; this is more yellow. My observation is confirmed when I look at its neighbours which are a different colour, the "usual" one.

Autumn is a great time for house-spotting because after the leaves have fallen, you can see all the details of the buildings and gardens so much better. Like the nice downstairs windows that are hidden by the Victoria creeper from early summer to the autumn.

I turn to Uittotunnelinkatu (Timber rafting tunnel street) above which there is a wall made of natural rocks. Two dogs bark at me, to kill the time on this lazy afternoon when I enter the shadow-laden footpath.

The trees are gathered round a ditch-like opening at the end of which there is a tunnel - a timber rafting tunnel that connects lake Näsijärvi on the other side of Pispalanharju ridge to this side and lake Pyhäjärvi. I get even more surprised when I look down towards lake Pyhäjärvi and see a set of rails that lead towards the lake.

I wonder what kind of system has been at the receiving end of the log rafting tunnel, moving the logs that swam through to the open-air vehicle on the rails? The remains of the vehicle are still there.

Next I simply have to visit lake Pyhäjärvi shore just to see where the rails end. In the lake, of course, and the person who owns the white rowing boat - already turned upside down for the winter - is confident that no logs will pass this way anymore.

 

I follow the footpath by the shore back towards Tahmela. When I have reached the place where I first entered the lakeshore I spot a white ceramic bird nesting on a granite pillar. It is only then that I notice what house the bird is guarding: Kurpitsatalo, or Pumpkin House. The yellow wooden house seems quiet but the notice board outside its entrance reveals that there have been loads of activities here lately, and not just at the children's nature playground next door. 

Kurpitsaliike (Pumpkin Movement) has its headquarters in Kurpitsatalo. The movement defends local Pispala heritage and supports allotments for growing your own vegetables. There are still a couple of the season's last plants and herbs that haven't yet given in to winter.

I keep on walking, via Tahmela beach towards the streets from which I can choose which way to take to the top of Pispalanharju ridge. There are so many houses, ranging from the small and large old ones to modern ones that have been built between the original houses. It is hard to imagine what it must have looked like in here all those decades ago, before huge windows became fashionable.

When I've almost reached Hirvikatu street, I notice a pair of white, happy looking circus horses dancing on the porch. It would be nice to get a closer look!

I walk around the house to find out that Hirvitalo (Moose House) is a real art house, a centre of contemporary art. I boldly step inside the porch to try the door but almost immediately hear that there is no entrance before the next exhibition opens.

In the garden of Hirvitalo there are quite a few letters, made of fabric, hanging from the branches of the apple tree. I wonder if there are messages inside? If so, who are they for? Can or will someone open them sometime? When I spot a traffic sign on the grass - lying down - that states you are not allowed to walk here I begin to wonder...

The Center of Contemporary Art of Pispala showcases quite a few works of art in the garden, ranging from a number of letters (that can be moved about to form words) attached on a garden shed wall - I read "PALJON SYKSYÄ", or much autumn as the translation would be, to different artworks beneath the apple tree. The wooden boat is beautifully carved but it doesn't look like extremely seaworthy. Or even lakeworthy.

I really need to start walking uphill. Should I choose a steep street or the steps? At the last minute, I take a couple of steps aside and almost fall for a different route, along the nice looking Varronkatu...

However, at this point there is no way I could ignore the famous Steps of Pispala. They are a must! And there is a significantly larger number of steps than there is for example at Harju steps in Jyväskylä, but then again, I am not in a hurry.

Step by step I climb higher and lake Pyhäjärvi seems to be even further away, so low. You really get a sense of moving up here!

...Until there are only few more steps left and I'm finally on top of Pispalanharju ridge!

I feel very content now that I've walked up here until I discover the steps continue even further. However, it is not such a bad revelation because they start heading down from the top of the ridge. Another, private set of Steps of Pispala (Pispalan portaat) seems to have been installed by the side of the real thing, but unlike the ones I'm treading towards, the private steps are fiercely guarded. 

On my way down I stop to gaze at the view towards lake Näsijärvi and Särkänniemi with its tall observation tower, Näsinneula. They seem to be so low...

I keep my fingers crossed. There is a museum for a local writer / poet Lauri Viita who lived in the area. However, I am not in luck; the museum is open only in summertime.

It means that I will stick to my role as an external observer. I simply have to go and check out the weird-looking red structure that you can see for miles: The Shot Tower (Haulitorni) which was not used by snipers for shooting people but instead for making shot balls of lead!

I suppose I need to turn and start heading for the centre of Tampere from Pispala - the light will fade soon. There are still a couple of local landmarks left. The local grill Vaakon nakki is more than 50 years old and keeps going strong but I am here too early to get to sample hot sausages (or anything else, for that matter!) in the cosy open-air tables. Covered with frost, of course...

Pauppa (not "kauppa" which means a shop in Finnish) houses the artistic Pau house (no idea when it keeps its doors open) which apparently sells some artful artefacts. I sense a positive vibe towards Pispala here! 

The restaurant Pispalan Pulteri has been here for decades, since 1968. And guess what - the name of the restaurant is derived from Johnny Hart's comic strip B.C. which has been translated as 'Pulteri' in Finnish.  Suddenly I think about my childhood and reading the comic strip in the Apu magazine at my Granny's.

Finally I see the mustard walls of Rajaportin sauna, the most famous sauna of Pispala. This will be a great finish for my walk. Just imagine a walk at Pispala - a touch of nature, a bit of architecture in the form of houses from different periods, art, literary history, a chance to pop in for a snack/meal or a drink, and a relaxing end for it at a proper sauna... However, better check when the sauna is open because I am out of luck and find only a closed door in front of me today. Need to return another time to experience the Rajaportti sauna, aged +100 years!

Espoo: Jaume Plensa in the midst of dreams

Jaume Plensa: Day. Night. (2012).

It is a dark but far from stormy night. I head towards the most interesting light in Tapiola, Espoo, Finland: a colour-changing statue sitting high up in the air that looks exactly like its cousins in Jaume Plensa's artwork called Conversation in Nice that he has created at Place Masséna in Nice, France. However, there doesn't seem to be too much conversation in the air by the main entrance to the exhibition centre Weegee. The statue on top of the pillar in Espoo is all alone whereas in Nice there are seven companions who communicate between themselves in the language of colours.

I enter the exhibition centre and get a warm welcome: there is free entry on Wednesday evenings at 6-8 pm. My target is the Spanish-born artist Jaume Plensa's (1955-) exhibition at EMMA, Espoo Museum of Modern Art on the upper floor.

Jaume Plensa: Nuage IV (2012).

I am captivated by the almost egg-shaped cloud that consists entirely of letters and characters in different languages. Letters join together to create words, words move you, you get carried away by your thoughts and it all becomes a story.

As always, dreams and words cast their shadows that each have their own stories.

Jaume Plensa: In the Midst of Dreams (2009).

The large, silent (but perhaps not mute) heads rest on a bed of white rocks. Despite the outward calm, I can sense anxiety inside them, in the midst of dreams. There are few words on their faces, such as ignorance, wrath, desire. Am I reading the words inside their heads or what someone else is thinking when he or she sees them?

On the other side of the large exhibition hall there are a couple of flat human figures hanging in the air, with thoughts curling above them. Imagination is more important than knowledge. The man sitting on a bench is wondering Enough or too much? The walker states Exuberance is beauty. It is so easy to move very slowly from one work of art to another and let it get to you.

Jaume Plensa: Glückauf? (2004).

There are few visitors at this hour and the atmosphere is that of peace. The curtains that are suspended before the back wall consist of letters but what is their story? What do they say? At first I have no idea but when I get closer to the gently turning strings of letters, I realize that there are indeed words. I walk to the left and start mumbling to my self, hoping that nobody will hear me as I read slowly from top to bottom.  Article 1 All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights. 

Declaration of Human Rights.  It has taken a lot of work and patience to build this work of art but it will take so much longer to see the declaration become true.

I slip beneath the white figures sitting on the walls, their heads facing down. Hear no evil. The dark rooms invite me, only max 10 people at a time, and the eerie, white heads hanging in the air, lit so beautifully, silence me to study their faces on which few words are written. Day, Night, Moon, Sun. Someone's face spells Air, on another I read Poetry. In the other dark room next door the little heads and torsos have other stories written all over them. Panic. Stress. Mania. Life is not but a dream.

I descend the stairs and leave the quiet of the exhibition hall, to meet the happy noises of children who are just getting ready to leave after a birthday party at the museum café. Dreaming of what?

I turn my eyes off the concrete path towards the lawn and the trees. Some of them are kept warm by knit graffiti. Somebody's fulfilled his or her dream by dressing the tree trunks.

I follow the quiet Ahertajankatu street back towards the center of Tapiola and its maze of shops and buildings that are far less pleasing to the eye than the thoughtful artwork I just met. My thoughts escape these autumn surroundings and fly towards the Mediterranean and another work by Jaume Plensa. Nomade sits on the bastion by the sea in Antibes, France, having stopped on his travels to gaze at the sea, his body formed of large white letters. I remember stepping inside Nomade, sitting down, turning my eyes towards the azure sea and thinking about where I am, where will I go next.

Thanks, EMMA.