Jyväskylä: Kangasvuori nature trail

It is the morning of All Saint's Day in Jyväskylä and I am heading for Kangasvuori nature trail with a slight worry in my mind. I have heard the news that the water tower on top of Kangasvuori hill has collapsed earlier this morning so I can't be certain that it is possible to follow the nature trail. I arrive at the start of the trail by the forest behind Huhtasuo school and study first the mysteriously named HH 2000 (cross country skiing club Huhtasuon Hiihto) which doesn't mention the nature trail. However, the nature trail (luontopolku) sign can be found only a couple of meters away and there is no warning about the area being closed to public.

Kangasvuori nature trail is about three kilometers long and it runs round Kangasvuori hill. It is recommended to follow it anti-clockwise. I expect to meet both dry and wet ground, especially now that it is raining. The nature trail crosses a wide footpath and then continues along the slope.

When the trail crosses a small road there is a new channel where the water has rushed through in the early hours of the morning.

Only few steps away, there is also water flowing down but not as fast. I am sure that this area is wet especially in the springtime but the collapse of the watertower must have changed something here as well.

I tread through a beautiful green spruce wood before arriving at a lichen-covered cliff. From there you can see some houses close by; the trail almost touches the closest back yards. Someone else is walking on the path. A woman is returning home, carrying an armful of juniper branches taken from the woods. Well, well. According to Everyman's right in Finland, you are allowed to pick berries and mushrooms in the forest even if you don't own the land (not from someone else's garden though!) but that right does not include damaging trees.

This rock has travelled with huge blocks of ice during the ice age. However, it isn't big enough to offer shelter from the rain.

There is an unofficial open fireplace by Vuorilampi lake, by a large rock. A friendly soul has been kind enough to bring firewood here but it looks slightly wet. No problem; I wasn't expecting to be able to make a fire here anyway.

Raindrops keep dropping on me and lake Vuorilampi. The worn but steady, tiny jetty serves also those who want to step in for a swim. Not me, not now... 

Standing on the duckboards by lake Vuorilampi, I look carefully around me. What are those little red dots in the grass?

But of course - cranberries (in Finnish: karpalo)! They are actually tiny but it is great to sample some of these late autumn berries, although their taste isn't too sweet.

The ground ahead of me continues wet. The trail is sometimes very worn which may be due to mountain bikes also using it, by the look of things.  No worries though, the duckboards take you safely across the most wet parts. A sign tells about the duckboards; on this trail some of them are made of larch, some of impregnated wood. The pond next to the trail is still partly covered with ice and slush although the first snow has already melted from the forest.

While the trail ascends slowly, the ground gets more dry. Yet it stays green and becomes even more beautiful, beneath the tall spruces.

The mist in the air creates an eerie atmosphere in the woods of Kangasvuori hill.

This must be the most gorgeous area in Kangasvuori nature trail; there is something magical in this place. I breath deeply and simply enjoy the moment, wondering what else this forest has to offer when I hear the sound of tiny twigs breaking under somebody's light steps a bit further. Fast light steps. An orientereer is running happily through the woods.

I am guided to turn to the right to a scenic spot. Need to be careful by the side of the cliff though. This rainy, misty day offers a somewhat limited view.

The nature trail winds slowly upwoards before it arrives close to the now fallen Kangasvuori water tower. There are yellow tapes that prohibit entrance to the damaged area so I have to make a detour by following the tapes.

I soon get to the road that leads to the sad remains of the water tower. There are blocks of concrete and trash everywhere. Where does the nature trail continue? I take a couple of quick steps to the area that is cordoned off, just to check where I should be heading. The small wooden bridge has partly collapsed but at least I know which way to go.

I return immediately to the safe area and continue my walk along the yellow tapes. It is easy to see how furious the huge streams of water - about 2,000 000 liters - were when flowing down in the forest, making angry wounds on the ground. It was lucky that the unforeseen accident of the water tower's collapse took place in the dark, at 6 am. Had it happened later, in the daylight, there would have been people taking a walk or jogging in the flooded area.

The remaining part of the water tower looks like a tower on a chess board. The water was flowing also this way in the morning. I scan the scenery around me for the nature trail but can't see any trail marks. The young birches grow so close together that walking through them would be difficult so I make another detour in the forest to find the rest of the path.

It only takes few minutes to find the nature trail because I'm walking in the right direction. I follow the path upwards for a last look at the now closed area.

I am very close to the end of the (now muddy)trail. The other people who I see on the nature trail are cursing their shoes which are not waterproof...

The last trail guide has attracted some unwanted attention from a passer-by but it is still possible to read most of the text. People used to be gatherers, hunters, shepherds before turning to agriculture and eventually living in large communities. What is our true landscape? Urban surroundings, something else? Do you hear the call of the sounds and smells of nature, the call of the wilderness? Can you resist it? The man-made urban construction proved its weakness but nature keeps going strong.

Tikkakoski nature trail

Tikkakoski is located about 20 km north from Jyväskylä and it is best known for its close connection to aviation: it is the location of Jyväskylä's airport, Aviation Museum of Central Finland and home to Finnish Air Force Academy. However, I don't plan to be walking in the air but firmly on the ground, along Seitsemän kukkulan luontopolku (Seven Hills Nature Trail) which starts in the neighbourhood of Air Force Academy, at the beginning of Luonetjärventie road.

There is a notice board by the side of the parking lot but it seems to offer information on anything else but the nature trail: Moped driving prohibited! An ad for a local driving school. Cross-country skiing instructions. When you're allowed to go skiing with your dog on the ready-made tracks (No kidding! Mon & Wed between 8 and 10 pm! Obviously, there needs to be snow.).

 

It is no use to look at a map of cross country skiing tracks if you all you want to know is where the nature trail begins. I have to resort to my cell phone and search for the map of Seitsemän kukkulan luontopolku online to see where exactly the path is supposed to start. OK, only a couple of meters from where I'm standing. Right.

As the trail is named after "seven hills" I must be standing on the very first one now - at least the path leads down from here. The bright sunshine promises a nice walk in the forest but very soon I hear a distinct noise coming from the left.

The trail marks lead me to a narrow road. A quad bike whizzes past. And then another one. The first signpost says that the land in this area is pretty worn because of lots of activities. As I follow the red trail marks along the same tracks that the quad bikes take turns to ride I think that my own footprints may not be equal to those of the tyre marks... Again I hear the engine roar and step aside, to give way to the guys on wheels.

I must admit that I am relieved to see the trail turn off the wide track because the quad bikes aren't attempting to take this trail. The ground becomes level and I enter a small marsh. A signpost reminds me that cuckoos are typical inhabitants in areas like this. At this time of the year you can't however hear the cuckoo calling in Finland. They have left us for a warmer climate for the winter.

The path follows a pine bog and guides me to a narrow channel of still water that reflects the pines growing on its shores. Thanks to the duckboards it is possible to keep your feet dry when walking here.

In an instant the marsh turns to extremely dry land: there are sandy ridges on my right. I listen carefully and can't hear the quad bikes anymore. Perhaps they have left their perfect, peaceful training ground for the day. Thank you!

The route marks steer me towards a narrow track, off the gravel road and again to the side of a pine bog with few trees. It is actually interesting to see the scenery change so much within such a short distance - from dry to very wet land and back.

I can't help looking around for mushrooms; it would be great to find some to take home with me. I'm not extremely lucky and find only few but at least there is an abundance of lingonberries growing in the woods before they get hit by the cold weather. If only I had a cup or something with me to pick some berries!

Oh no, this doesn't look too good. How come those pines have fallen exactly on the path? However, there is nothing to worry about because you only need to take a couple of steps to the right to see the trail continue intact a bit further.

Along the trail, there are a couple of signs that remind that this area is a nature reserve since 1981 (when Tikkakoski was not yet part of Jyväskylä city) and it is used by schools for learning about geography and biology. No rubbish. No disturbing the nature. I try to step very carefully over the lichen to keep them intact.

The trail is descending slightly so this must be one of the "hills" of the "Seven Hills' Trail". All this while, I've been looking forward to a sign that would explain why on earth the trail got its grand name. To me, the little hillocks don't necessarily deserve to be called hills.

The weather has already turned cloudy when I arrive at the quiet Mustalampi lake, surrounded by marshland. There is a small resting spot with two wooden benches right on the shore, overlooking the lake. I learn that it is possible to meet red-throated divers (in Finnish: 'kaakkuri') in little lakes just like this.

On the shores of Mustalampi it is at first slightly wet, then very wet. Again, I thank the duckboards for keeping my feet dry!

It is so late in the autumn that the birches have lost their leaves already; the dry leaves are turning from yellow to brown before they become one with the earth. The green moss seems to offer the only bright colour in the scenery before I spot the blue and white stripes on some trees. They indicate that I am now very close to Luonetjärvi Air Force base.

Next, I step onto a small road and see a swamp right in front of me but no trail signs. Which way to go? Left? Right?

After a moment of hesitation, I check the forest on my left and see another route mark. The trail continues along the edge of the marsh before turning right into it, on the wobbly-looking duckboards that are actually some kind of a narrow bridge across a shallow pond. No handrails. And the duckboards are seriously leaning to my right. I don't want to slide into the pond, walking on damp pieces of wood!

Once I'm almost halfway across the duckboards I give up. Better be safe than sorry! I want to have a good look around me and kneel down. Much better. The grass, leaves and their reflections are simply works of art, created accidentally on the surface or beneath it. Despite enjoying the moment I think the duckboards could perhaps be straightened, making it easier to cross the pond. Oh well, it is easy to walk round the water to the other side if you don't want to risk it.

Next, I arrive at a spruce forest. To my eyes, the area around the path has mostly been surrounded by pine trees so this is something different, if only for a while.

There are lots of paths running in different directions in the forest, yet it is easy to stay on the right track. Quite a few other people are enjoying the area on foot here also, either jogging or walking. I can well imagine that this place is full of people cross-country skiing in the winter. A forest always beats asphalt tracks that run next to busy roads.

When I arrive at the next sign that tells about the landscape I am not surprised to find it tells about suppa, a large 'hole' in the esker which was formed by a large block of ice during the ice age. That is exactly what is in front of me.

The last sign tells about the smallish treeless bog, in Finnish neva. It looks like my boots would definitely sink in if I went walking there to see if there are any cranberries growing there. From here the trail climbs slightly uphill, to the top of the ridge and I find I've walked a full circle. There's still one question in my mind: which hillocks have been upgraded to hills to give a name to this trail? Need to get a detailed map to find out about that... 

Central Finland Provincial Trail: Pyhä-Häkki - Tulijärvi

It is early Friday evening at Pyhä-Häkki national park gate at Saarijärvi, Central Finland. The parking lot is deserted except for my vehicle until another car stops there for a couple of minutes and then leaves after checking out the place - nothing to see here now? I pick up my backpack and have a look at the route map. There should be about 2 hours of daylight left. 

I choose to follow the Tulijärvi trail, marked with white paint. It will eventually take me to Central Finland Provincial Trail's blue trail marks that also lead to the northwest, towards Kannonkoski. It is only a couple of weeks since I followed the very same path in the opposite direction when hiking from Saarijärvi to Pyhä-Häkki. I soon arrive from the forest to Riihineva marshland.

Riihineva marsh opens wide and is as quiet as can be. I can only hear my own footsteps against the dry, grey duckboards. No need to step aside and let others pass... There isn't even a bird in sight.

Just before the "paved" trail changes to a regular footpath it reminds me that this season has been rather wet. I really hope that any duckboards ahead won't be very wet because walking on slimy wood would make my progress pretty slow especially after dark.

Leaving the open land behind, I continue along the worn, wide path. Numerous hikers have taken this route before me, most of them on a day trip in the national park. Quite a few rocks have been uncovered underneath their feet...

I stop to admire the red peat moss by the path. Even if most colours in the nature are fading at this time of the year, with the leaves already having mostly fallen down and getting brown, the moss isn't giving up. Besides, its shape reminds me of Africa.

A small brook meanders under the trees, as silent as it can. I feel like I am the loudest creature alive in the forest, hearing the rustle of my jacket and goretex pants. Perhaps the other creatures around me don't think so.

As it such a short while since I last walked this very same route, albeit in the opposite direction, it feels a bit funny to be here so soon again. Of course, passing a route once doesn't necessarily make it familiar ground. At the next marsh, I wonder about the straight channel right next to the duckboards - until I realize that it must be where the duckboards were at some point previously, until it became too wet.

Tall fir trees tower above me. I reach the signposts that I was looking for: it will be only 3.2 kilometres' walk to Tulijärvi shelter. This is good news because it isn't dark yet which means that at least part of the way will be easy to hike.

On the left side of the path I get a glimpse of Kotajärvi lake. Last time I stopped at the other end of the lake where it is possible to make a fire - there is plenty of firewood. As it is so late in the day there is no point in making even the tiniest detour and have a snack. It is such a small distance to Tulijärvi, after all!

There are quite a few tall, barkless snags by the side of the path. So many forests these days are commercial forests where you can practically never see them so I feel priviledged to meet so many right here. 

Walking in these woods left to grow wild is so easy that you could call this a luxury. The ground is flat and it would be easy to walk anywhere without a path underneath my feet. In my mind I compare this to the (worst) commercial forests which have met their end at final felling. Replanting after that usually requires manual work but many forest owners prefer to use machinery as much as possible. With mounding, the landscape changes most because it means that an excavator scoops a hole in the ground and the seedling is planted on top of the mound next to the hole. Add to that the tree stumps, branches etc. left to rot and the area is very easily unwalkable for a long time. Compared to that, this is a paradise.

The route continues marked with white paint and blue ribbons, although I am leaving behind the Pyhä-Häkki national park. The blue ribbon confirms that I am on Central Finland Provincial Trail towards the north. It seems that light is beginning to fade slowly.

Whether the reason is the fading light or something else that distracts me but for some reason I don't open my map here and automatically follow the "stronger" trail, turning to the left. It is so easy to see that Pyhä-Häkki national park is behind me because my (untrained) eyes spot enduro motorcycle marks on the ground. Without them, the path would be excellent but the tyres have made the trail muddy.

What is this? Another National Park sign at the sharp bend? Wait a minute... Finally, I take out my map and realize I should have continued along another trail and not turn here. However, there are also white paint marks on the trees so this is a bit confusing. Sigh. I won't bother to turn back because I will be able to rejoin the Tulijärvi trail very soon if I just continue walking.

In the fading light, I follow the path straight to Rahelampi pond, my boots sinking into the soft mossy ground by the shore. Just a quick view before getting back to the proper trail; again I meet a Pyhä-Häkki national park signpost. I turn back, take a sharp turn left and follow a path close to the shore. Seeing the white trail marks descending from the right in the distance is a lovely sight - I am once again back on the trail.

The path takes me through heather-covered ground and I am thankful for the trail being marked with white paint which is very easy to spot in the dark even without wearing a headlamp. The next sign reveals that I have walked about 5 kilometres from Pyhä-Häkki and it's only 18 kilometers to Kannonkoski, the next village. That would be tomorrow, right?  In the dusk, the narrow path reaches a road and I meet the next trail sign. Only 0.5 kilometers to Tulijärvi shelter. Almost there!

I walk down a tiny road and guess that my destination is only few steps away although I can hardly see a thing. A headlamp is indeed a necessity at this time of the day - or night. I've spent the last two kilometers wondering if there are any others at the shelter and how great it will be to make a fire there...  The shelter looks pretty good and I take off my backpack. Next: make a fire. However, an unpleasant surprise is waiting for me - there is absolutely no firewood in the shed. This is a first for a long time! The guest book reveals that I'm not the only one who has experienced the same... 

I switch off my headlamp and start adjusting my eyes to the darkness. After a while I start to discern something, but it is already so dark that it is impossible to see the lake Tulijärvi right next to me unless I go to the shore. It is ironic. After all, the lake and the shelter bear the name Tulijärvi - tuli means fire. Fireless lake, I would say! What should I do? I don't fancy spending a night here without a fire. Unfortunately that means... A walk back to the car at Pyhä-Häkki.

Darkness surrounds me as I walk back to the nearest road. I could return via the same path but I choose to take a different, slightly longer route (7-8 km) instead, walking along the roads. It will be easier now that there is so little light. Suddenly I see a light flash on my right, in the direction of the path that I took to come here. Apparently there are one or two other hikers approaching the Tulijärvi shelter. Hope they will enjoy it more than I did! I switch off my headlamp and walk fairly briskly in the dark, under few stars, passing only few houses on the solitary road. A different Friday night anyway; it seems that I'll continue along the Central Finland Provincial Trail to Kannonkoski another time :)