A small stroll at Oulu

Oulu, a rare destination for me. Leaving the major shopping area, I take Saaristonkatu street towards the market square by the shore. On a Friday afternoon at this time of the year there are hardly any stalls. Somehow I don't feel like buying ice cream from the trailer parked by the side of the market hall... Where to go next? Should I turn right, past the old, red ochre painted warehouses?

Or choose to go left where the route would take me past the modern houses by the canal? To buy some time, I go straight to Kiikeli island and check out the blue and white signs that stick out of the snow. Siisti ympäristö, mukava olla (free translation: Clean environment, a nice place to be). A friendly way to say "No littering"!

I check out the Oulu city map by the shore. The map suggests a nice walk round the frozen waters, the Oulujoki river delta - about 4,5 km. A great idea but today I prefer to saunter on my own, without a map or a planned route.

OK, let's go right, past the warehouses some of which date at least to the 19th century, perhaps even to 18th century. Restaurant Uleåborg 1881 is proud to operate in one of them and there's no forgetting which year the warehouse was built originally!

On my left, across the water and within easy reach via a footbridge, are the city theatre and main library - grey concrete buildings which are hopefully at least tolerable, if not pleasant, inside. Can't say I admire their architecture from this angle... Straight ahead there is yet another island, Linnansaari on top of which stands a lovely wooden villa. Much nicer! I cross a footbridge and and once at Linnansaari, notice a round sign. Leverkusen? Is this park dedicated to select football teams?

No, Leverkusen (probably best known by its football team) is simply one of Oulu's twin towns, and Linnansaari is a friendship park, dedicated to all of them: Boden (Sweden), Alta (Norway), Leverkusen (Germany), Halle (Germany), Siofok (Hungary), Odessa (Ukraine) and Bursa (Turkey).

The most striking thing about Linnansaari (linna = castle) is the pinkish wooden Tähtitorni house that was built as an observation tower in 1875. It was renovated as a café as early as 1912 and it still serves as one during the summer. And what is there beneath it? The observation tower was built on the ruins of Oulu castle that was destroyed in a fire, followed by the explosion of the gunpowder warehouse in the late 18th century.

I return from Linnansaari via the footbridge and turn right, following the shore to Pokkisenpuisto park. A narrow stream seems to appear from the snow, creating icicles as the water falls down the man-made steps. Plaanaoja, or Kaupunginoja is headed towards Oulujoki river delta.

Rantakatu street offers a lovely view of old wooden houses and I just can't resist them; back towards the market place it is. The brass plate on the wall of the corner of Ojakatu and Rantakatu streets tells me that the bishop's residence and cathedral chapter were moved from Kuopio to this building in 1900. The light blue wooden building (above) was home to editor and writer  Erkki Kivijärvi. There are many more brass plates on old houses in Oulu, but to read them you'd better learn some Finnish!

After examining the old houses I again cross the quiet market place and arrive at the red brick market hall, kauppahalli, which has stood there since 1901.

The interior is made of wood, with a lovely checquered floor. I admit, it's nicer to do your shopping indoors on a cold, windy day. There are lots of things on offer: fresh fish, meat, vegetables, cheese, spices, bread, handicrafts... If only I could buy some fresh whitefish to take home with me!

The fat bloke right in front of the market hall is no ordinary guardian of law and order, but Toripolliisi, or Market Policeman. (Note the spelling: not poliisi but polliisi). He is rather popular with us tourists! If you drop a postcard in a postbox inside the market hall, it will be stamped with his picture. Toripolliisi is also a name of a new restaurant (behind the statue on the left) - very cleverly out of sight of the sturdy policeman.

I leave the waterfront behind and take Kauppurinkatu street towards the city centre, but very soon find myself on the side streets, looking for a cosy café. There seems to be a suitable one at Pakkahuoneenkatu street...

The windows of café Kofeiinikomppania are decorated by cute stickers, nice, but a peek through the glass tells me there is much more inside. Once inside, the selection of teas and coffees is quite impressive.

Teatime! Actually, a bit early for that, but a pot of tea will do just fine. There are so many different kinds to choose from, and when I've narrowed down my choice to two, I get a sniff from the tins. Green tea with sour apple or green tea with vanilla?

The order is placed at the counter but after that you simply choose your seat and soon you are served a pot of freshly brewed tea, timed exactly right and in the right temperature. The white china cup does justice to the tea - you can see the colour so well. The walls of the café are painted in shades of gold and brown and right now there is an art exhibition by local artist Lauri Ahtinen. Soft jazz is playing in the background and an electric samovar is bubbling on the antique sideboard. The bathroom is well worth a visit; it is beautifully lit, including a small chandelier, and you can write or draw a message on the blackboard. Crayons provided. A great idea!

Above the window sill of Kofeiinikomppania, there is more artwork: a long and winding road (to my eye...), made of crocheted shapes in different colours by Irina Kylmänen (2011), but it is really called Kaikki kuut (All Moons).

Time to get off the plush sofa and step back onto the streets of Oulu. After a couple of turns I arrive back at the pedestrian zone and Rotuaari square (a local word for trottoir). The simple stage is surrounded by rusty, star-decorated metal walls but lies there deserted. Right next to it the square is crowded, thanks to the Finnish presidential election 2012: the 8 presidential candidates have their own stalls there, offering a chance for a cup of free coffee, a brochure and a chat with the candidates' volunteer supporters  - or with fellow voters. There's time to think about who to vote for when you're on a walk...

Jyväskylä: walking and dreaming

An amazing Sunday morning: here comes the sun! The rays of sunlight make the world shine and sparkle, especially the pure, white snow which makes you think it is already late February or March. On a grey day you can't easily imagine how beautiful all the dried-up stalks of hay or other plants can actually be. Especially when wearing coats made of crystals.

The willows surrounding the fields of Kortesuo are also covered by lacy, delicate frost. The weather is absolutely perfect for a dreamy walk.

At the other end of the archery field of Viitaniemi, next to the garden allotments, the atmosphere is simply magical. When I look at the glittering, still snow, in my mind's eye I can already see myself enjoying 'hankiainen', the snow crust that is hard enough to walk on; in real life, the time for that comes towards the end of the winter in Finland.

I continue my walk following Harju ridge to the quiet university campus. There's hardly anyone about so I have the park almost to myself. Where next? The only open café in the area on a Sunday is at Alvar Aalto Museum so best to head there.

The cool, -10 °C weather has made my cheeks red so it's great to step into the museum and its cosy café. I was hoping to find something really delicious here today and it's my lucky day: the rhubarb pie both looks and tastes fantastic. Plus it gives me energy to keep on walking...  I'm not in a mood for the architecture exhibitions of Alvar Aalto Museum today, just for a bit of design, and pick up a free badge that advertises World Design Capital Helsinki 2012 before stepping outside. I turn back to Jyväskylä city centre on Seminaarinkatu street and pass the university.

Close to the corner of Kauppakatu and Vaasankatu streets I spot a new name on a window: Lounge. I take a peek inside throught the window - a small counter, an ancient cash register, chairs, small tables. Is somebody's dream coming true here in the shape of a new café? It looks promising, at least there are loads of coffee cups, an espresso machine and - a huge pack of ghastly yellow Lipton teabags. Oh please, please let them get there proper tea, something that tastes good! Anyway, a new café is always welcome to Jyväskylä.

I walk further towards the city centre and abandon thoughts about turning left or right. At Kirkkopuisto park (Church Park) a handwritten sign is stuck to the snow. Hyvä arki. How to translate that? Happy ordinary life might be the closest translation. As I get closer to the people I see more signs.

A friendly man gives me a handout and tells more about what is going on. Today, January 15, is the birthday of Martin Luther King and to celebrate that, Jyväskylän torikokous - Occupy Jyväskylä has organized an event called Sunday of Dreams. Everyone can share their dreams here - write your own on a piece of paper or cardboard. Someone has wished more warmth (lämpöä). I wonder if he or she was feeling cold...

Someone has written his or her dream on the dark rock sculpture by Kain Tapper: toivo (hope). A bunny rabbit is dreaming especially of more snow (lisää lunta) but not just of that: her second wish in smaller print is more friends (lisää kavereita).

Let's keep on dreaming. You never know, our dreams may come true some day.

Martin Luther King: I have a dream (text, mp3)
More photos of the event at Torikokous Jyväskylä - Occupy Jyväskylä pages

Jyväskylä art - dolls and bathrooms

Snowflakes land heavily on my face, woolly hat and jacket when I walk across the campus of University of Jyväskylä. Oh no, the poor lilac bushes have mistaken the (so far) warmish winter to be the spring and some buds are already appearing amidst the snow. Sorry, guys. You are far too early. Hope you don't catch a cold.

On Fridays there is free entrance to some museums of Jyväskylä so I head for Museum of Central Finland at Alvar Aallon katu 7. I wonder if there is any art on display in the bathroom? In the ladies, there certainly is. If you are planning to make art here, take your own papers. In case of emergency use papers provided by house. And the same in Finnish.

There is a piece of photography on the wall, toying with artistic displays of rolls of toilet paper. Just don't try this in the cubicle...

At the ground floor there is an exhibition that celebrates the city of Jyväskylä's 175th birthday this year. The exhibition features displays in the centerpieces of which are handmade dolls in period costumes from several decades since Jyväskylä was founded in 1837. The dolls were made by members of Doll Artists of Finland Society.

The texts are available only in Finnish, but there are wonderful details in the doll displays. For example the gentlemen who are about to order their dinner are reading a miniature menu written in Swedish and Finnish. The carefully tailored costumes are also great to look at.

There are scenes from important times in the city's history, including Jan 1, 2009, when Jyväskylä last grew by joining forces with two of its neighbouring communities, Jyväskylän maalaiskunta (red-gold coat of arms) and Korpilahti. The current mayor of Jyväskylä, Markku Andersson, is featured on the right.

The museum hosts large permanent exhibitions about the history of Jyväskylä city and the whole province of Central Finland, but this time I skip those. However, I take a peek to the second floor and around the corner there is a surprise: a loom ready for action. It is as if someone was actually weaving a traditional rug here, and using old clothes cut for the job. No idea if this part of the museum display or rug-weaving for real?

From the museum I walk to the campus of University of Jyväskylä, about half a kilometre uphill towards the city centre. First stop: university library where it is now possible to cast your vote in the Finnish presidential election of 2012, as it is advance voting time.

There is now quite a bit of renovation work going on at the university campus, with fences round some buildings, and it means that some routes are off limits... OK, I'll make a shortcut through the snow to the top of Seminaarinmäki hill there are some buildings from the times of the old Seminary, the predecessor of University of Jyväskylä, from the late 19th century.

Next to the Seminarium (S) building there is a small house made of large blocks of grey granite. The building is called Paja (workshop); after all, it was used as a workshop by male students of the original Seminary. Today it serves as a quiet place for worship and meditation, without references to any religion. I enter and switch on the lights. The front is very altar-like though.

The felt wall art is so simple, yet lights up the place with the terracotta colour. According to the guest book the visitors have used this room for morning prayers, zen meditation and a couple even got engaged here!

Right next door, on the ground floor of the red-brick Seminarium building, there is also artwork. For example the bathroom for the disabled is decorated by an old photograph from the days of the first Finnish-speaking teacher seminary, covering the window. Students relaxing outside...

My last museum stop is at the other end of the corridor, at the university museum's beautiful exhibition space. Mr Salmi was the university's official photographer in 1967-1990 and naturally photographed the academic degree ceremonies over the years. The black and white photographs have captured the festive atmosphere beautifully.

On the southern window of the gallery space there is yet another photograph from the old Seminary days, with two female students smiling happily. You don't see students wearing aprons these days!
 
And now, back to continue the walk through the snow...

Jyväskylä: Warming up at Lutakko

As if by a miracle, sun seems to have returned to Jyväskylä, at least for a while, this Sunday. I cross the railroad tracks from Matkakeskus (railway station-cum-coach station) to Lutakko via the pedestrian bridge. My steps echo on the wooden floor which is now wonderfully even; a year ago you felt almost like you were walking on pebbles because the knotty planks were so worn out. The glass walls are decorated by icy lace.

The icy decorations act as a filter but don't block the view to the railroad tracks and Mattilanniemi.

After a walk through Lutakonpuisto park, I reach Lake Jyväsjärvi which is finally covered with ice and a thin layer of snow. This winter has been fairly dark and snowless, filled with grey days... Seeing the sun shine on the frozen lake is a welcome sight.

The sign on the shore reminds you that Swimming is allowed in the designated area (Uiminen sallittu rajatulla alueella). The ice is not at all strong yet so if you dare to take a risk and venture on the ice you actually might end up swimming... I don't think too many people use the outdoor toilets over here but it's great that they are there for emergencies ;-)

How strong is the ice, actually? Looking over the lake, we see one or two people on the ice close to the opposite shore at Suuruspää. They must be icefishers who are sure to check the thickness of the ice rather than risk their life.

I'm simply horrified, not just surprised, when I see a casual walker crossing the lake from Kuokkala to Lutakko. I just don't think it has been cold enough for long enough to be sure that it is already safe to walk there; after all, there are currents below the bridge which make the ice treacherous. Would I dare to go on the ice and help if the walker fell through? Luckily, she makes it on the shore...

I'm still pondering the strength of the ice when I walk around the corner and see a drift of smoke coming from the chimney of the little wooden building on the quay. Great, Kotakahvila coffee shop is already open although the skating season obviously hasn't started yet on the Jyväsjärvi lake! The place is run by students of Tiimiakatemia (Team Academy) whose studies include work as entrepreneurs.

I can't resist the call of a hot drink - coffee, tea, hot chocolate or berry juice available - and a grilled sausage, so better step in. On a day like this it is a real treat to be able to sit in front of an open fire

on reindeer skin, getting warm after a walk in the cold. Just to warm up though, because from here the walk will continue... But not before we've enjoyed a relaxed chat with the friendly staff and other customers of the cosy café.

Jyväskylä: Free art on the Epiphany

Finally the ground in Jyväskylä is covered by snow properly. The landscape is so pure and white that it feels like the first snow of the winter. After the unusually warm winter this is paradise! The amount of daylight is still scarce but having snow around you makes life much lighter.

The fresh snow covers some tall aspens in layers like mountainous whipped cream frosting spread randomly on the tree trunks.

The duckboards on the little shortcut path that connects Kortesuo to Viitaniemi are frozen solid under the snow. When the small forest was almost flooding a while ago, the water came right up to the duckboards, and eventually the slush froze, making the surface uneven. That's alright for those of us who are on foot, and we don't mind the narrow pathway. This is no highway anyway.

I step aside to give way to a passing cyclist who complains about the narrow track. Well, the wide asphalt bicycle / pedestrian path is only a 100 meters from here... I'm not in a rush and stop to have a look at the tiny brook which is slowly freezing over.

I reach Viitaniemi and turn left. On Taidepolku lane, a dwarf snowman does its best to scare passers-by.

Soon I arrive at Jaroslavl square (Jaroslavlin aukio) which honours Jyväskylä's twin city Jaroslalvl in Russia. In the shadow of the tallest building of this suburb, Viitatorni - designed by architect Alvar Aalto, there is a lower building which used to house a small supermarket before most people started to go grocery shopping by car. There is a candle burning outside the large windows. Is that an invitation? I step across the snow-covered square and try the door handle.

I get a warm welcome from the smiling lady in black. The newest art gallery in town has opened its doors only some days ago, on Jan 4, 2012. Galleria Variantti is run by Kauko Sorjonen Foundation, and it was founded in celebration of the local patron of the arts / businessman's 70th birthday. The opening exhibition Ihmisiä ja mielenmaisemia (People and landscapes of the mind) presents paintings and small sculptures by Finnish artists from Mr Sorjonen's collection, mostly from late 19th and early 20th century.

The artists include e.g. Ville Vallgren, Alvar Cawén and Fredrik Ahlstedt, but my favourites are Wilho Sjöström and impressionistic Kylpijä, a bathing lady, and especially the small oil paintings that remind me of the still summer evenings: Järvenranta kuutamossa (Lakeside in moonlight) by Hjalmar Munsterhjelm and Elokuun ilta (August evening) by Ellen Favorin.

Until now I've thought that Epiphany is a real Bank Holiday but the shopping bags carried by people who are returning from Jyväskylä city centre reveal that at least some shops are open. As I descend from Harju ridge to Kilpisenkatu street, I realize my wallet is at home so there is no chance for a hot cuppa or anything else that requires a bit of cash.

Luckily, there are things that you can do for free. On Kilpisenkatu street, there is a window display by the Craft Museum of Finland:  Eija Koski's works made of natural materials. The gorgeous, simple wreaths could be displayed at any time of the year but now they seem to spell Xmas. However, the soft and sweet wreath covered in catkins (above) makes you think of Easter... Among other materials, Koski has covered her wreaths in birch bark, dried mushrooms and seedcases.

 

A collection of delicate himmelis, traditional Xmas decorations made of straw, decorate the second window. 

I wonder what the red wrinkled balls in part of the largest himmeli are? Probably dried rosehips.

A couple of steps down and across the street, I arrive at Kauppakatu street. Taidemuseo Holvi, Jyväskylä Art Museum, seems to be open, but what about the entrance fee? Wait a minute, it is Friday and free entrance! It's my lucky day. Downstairs, there is a pretty desolate large work called The World by Noora ja Kimmo Schroderus. Black mountains, steel roads, wrecked cars, people frozen as statues. A dead world to me.

Upstairs, the world seems brighter. I sit down for six minutes to enjoy the enchanting flow of bluish-lilac images that have taken over the wall of the gallery and feel relaxation take over my body. Artist Jaana Partanen displays her works in Mental Alchemy - Harry Potter Layer (don't fancy the name of the exhibition but suppose it hints at the magical element) which is quite captivating. At the next floor, Partanen's exciting 3-D imagery tells individual stories in each photograph that you need to pass very slowly to see the changing images. Quite fantastic, and I love the colours. Science meets the dreamworld.

The last work of art I pause to look at is outside Taidemuseo Holvi, on its window. The lady at the ticket counter reveals that this is created by the staff of the museum who happened to decorate the frame in the spirit of Xmas for the holidays. Next week, there may be something totally different!