tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74932050958896585142024-03-13T15:50:33.728+02:00 Walk Finland Walking the paths and paved streets in Finland. Or elsewhere. And loving it.Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.comBlogger116125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-61937527274105321672016-03-26T09:50:00.000+02:002016-04-07T11:45:15.885+03:00A taste of UKK trail on snowshoes, Koli<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It was a gorgeous sunny day in early March when I was walking towards Räsävaara at Koli, North Karelia in Finland. Before the last long ascent to Räsävaara I spotted a wooden sign saying <i>UKK</i>. The acronym stands for UKK Trail which runs between Koli and Savukoski. It is by no means an easy, short trail walked in a weekend; <a href="http://travel.savukoski.fi/" target="_blank">Savukoski</a> is up in Lapland, about 1,000 kilometres away, and the trail is well marked in some areas only and requires extremely good navigational skills. And you might still lose the way even if you carry detailed maps.<br />
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UKK stands for <b>Urho Kaleva Kekkonen</b> who was the President of the Republic of Finland in 1956-1981. Kekkonen was an outdoors enthusiast and loved especially cross country skiing and fishing. He is said to have hiked the trail himself in 1957.<br />
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It seemed that I could get at least a taste of the UKK trail
with no chance of getting lost... The signposts seemed good
enough and I would always be able to follow my own trail back in the
snow. So, I returned to the same spot the following day, again equipped
with my snowshoes.<br />
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There were no human footprints on the dazzling, white snow. Only a hare had made his trail in the snow before me. I strapped on my snowshoes and stepped off the road to UKK Trail. The snow was nice and crisp and my snowshoes sank somewhat into it, but not very deep. Nevertheless, winter walking in snowshoes is always harder than walking on a road without the extra weight and the sinking experience; very soon I had to wipe my forehead and slow down.<br />
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At first the trail followed a narrow dirt road (or should I say a snow road?) and I thought it would turn into a narrower track. But not just yet. I felt curious. Would I be able to follow the trail marks without being able to distinguish a well trodden trail on the ground?<br />
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I was soon to find out. When the trail left the road there was a clear sign to the right, but after that it got trickier. It really helps if you have some experience with looking for any possible trail signs in the land ahead, and you are lucky if the paint chosen for the trail is of vibrant colour. Nevertheless, it took me a while to spot the next trail marks that only just reached above the snow!<br />
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I had a small - but not very detailed - map with me which helped me to see the right direction, but no compass, and anyway, I was hoping to find out whether it would be possible to follow the UKK trail in winter time. This was already an indication that a good map would be a great help. <br />
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I could see the <a href="http://walkfinland.blogspot.fi/2016/03/hidden-treasure-of-koli-rasavaara.html" target="_blank">Räsävaara </a>observation tower in the distance; it was my treat the previous day. If following the trail now were to become too hard, I could always make another visit to Räsävaara.<br />
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Sun was keeping me company. I kept walking on, keeping an eye on any orange dots on trees or in wooden posts peeking through the snow. What a wonderful day! What a fabulous forest!<br />
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The trail turned left and I followed the trail marks between the fir trees. It was like a narrow lane, surrounded by the homes of forest folk. A kind hare had again jumped before me and marked the way in the snow, first to a small opening and further on, deeper into the forest. I wonder if the path was also created by animals before humans started using it as well. <br />
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On my left there was a dense fir forest; on my right deciduous trees wearing the latest winter fashion, fluffy snow jackets. When you walk among fir trees, you may not often catch the sun so this was a welcome view.<br />
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It was so quiet. No birds singing, no motors, not a sound. Except for snow sometimes falling on the ground from the top of the trees after the sun had managed to turn some of the snow into less solid format. <br />
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When I continued on in the forest, I kept looking for the trail marks but soon could see no orange dots on the trees. However, I figured that by walking to the right direction I would be bound to find the trail again and was right. Orange paint dots greeted me by the side of the next clearing and for a while I was definitely on the trail again. That is, until the trail marks again disappeared!<br />
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The distances were however so short that I was confident of meeting the trail again soon, and was right. At the next opening (felled perhaps recently?) I looked at my map and knew that a campfire site was near.<br />
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I walked down the slope and there it was. An official campfire site. Oh well, maybe I was content with just my thermos flask and didn't have an urge to make a fire this time... I didn't even bother to go and see if there would have been any dry firewood left. <br />
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The trail turned right before the next house (the first house I'd met on the trail so far) and joined a cross country skiing track which was heading in the right direction. I didn't want to trample on the skiing track so I jumped off it and made my personal trail on the snow. When the cross country skiing track arrived at a narrow road and turned right, I continued straight on, keeping on the UKK trail. Virgin snow again.<br />
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This time even hares had abandoned me and I had the trail and the forest all to myself. Or not really, but there were no hare footprints on the marked trail. Only some tiny footprints - perhaps mice that ran across the trail here and there. Wait a minute, is that a bird singing? It sounded like spring.<br />
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Finding the next trail marks proved a bit more difficult in some places, but I felt confident I wouldn't have to turn back and follow my footprints back to where I had started from. Anyway, there were still many hours of daylight left. <br />
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After walking through a coniferous forest I arrived between lovely birches and to myt pleasant surprise, met trail signs and a map which told me exactly where I was. Nice! Mustikkavaara was only 2.5 kilometres away but I had already earlier decided that I'd be happy reaching Ryynäskylä where I could step onto a road that would take me back to Koli village. Not far too go anymore!<br />
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I walked across a field and then headed towards yet more fir trees. There was a house not too far on the left and I knew I didn't have too far to go anymore. And when you meet this kind of a straight 'lane' you just can't go wrong!<br />
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My final destination, Ryynäskylä's old village school was totally deserted, and it seemed like this was not due to school holidays. I suppose the school is no longer in its original use but that any kids in the area are transported to schools further afield. What surprised me was that the lovely <i>kota</i> had not been used recently either! It meant that it might not be easy to open the door...<br />
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I walked to the kota's door and tried gently to open the door, but as doors in Finland usually open outwards, the snow totally blocked the way. Also, I thought I'd prefer to stay out in the sun rather than go indoors, even if it would have been nice to make a fire, so I gave up quickly and headed towards the road that was supposed to be right next to the school. Although the road to the school yard was totally covered in snow, the Ryynäskylä road was clear and I took my snowshoes off. A couple more kilometres to go along the roads and then I'd be back at my lodgings at Koli village, at Kolin Ryynänen.<br />
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It was only then that I realized the connection between the names (<i>Ryynäs</i> = of Ryynänen, <i>kylä=</i>village)... I was walking from Ryynänen village to Ryynänen!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-79648468022239492022016-03-16T00:29:00.004+02:002016-03-16T00:29:51.265+02:00Hidden treasure of Koli: Räsävaara<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Koli, the best known attraction of North Karelia in Finland, has many hidden treasures. I'd heard that one such place is Räsävaara, a couple of kilometres off the most popular part - the peak of Ukko-Koli. On my previous trips to Koli I had planned a visit there but had never managed to make it (so many other things to do there!) so I finally decided to give it a go. <br />
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I left Ukko-Koli via the trail that starts from the hotel to the Koli village and saw immediately that snowshoes were not needed. Not just yet. The trail went downhill for almost 3 kilometres and I stopped for a cup of tea at Kolin Ryynänen before continuing my walk towards Räsävaara by the side of the road. After the village, there is no footpath for us walkers... So better tread carefully and beware of cars passing by.<br />
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<i>Firewood for sale...</i>What a hilarious firewood house! There was no point in wearing snowshoes just yet; why make the trip harder when you have a normal road to walk on. Of course I could have tried to take a shortcut through the woods but I didn't have a good map with me so following the signs to Räsävaara was a better option. I walked about one kilometre from the village until I reached the sign to the right; <i>Räsävaaran näkötorni </i>(observation tower) 3.2 km. I had forgotten about that!<br />
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Again, I felt silly just carrying my snowshoes and not wearing them! But wearing them and just snowshoeing by the road didn't make sense either so I thought I'd take it easy. The road turned to the left and I met a cross country skiing track marked by <a href="http://www.ahmanhiihto.fi/" target="_blank"><i>Ahmanhiihto</i></a> signs. The event takes place around mid March every year. I saw only one person skiing along the trail while walking beside it, but imagined that the trail would be extremely crowded at weekends.<br />
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I had the road all to myself. There were no cars driving past. The silence was fantastic; it gave me a perfect opportunity to simply enjoy the peace and quiet, to admire the snow and frost covered trees.<br />
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I spotted some orange dots on the trees, revealing that I was also following a long-distance hiking trail called UKK Trail which runs in Eastern Finland and Lapland. UKK Trail is a summer hiking trail so it was no wonder that there were no footprints (not even those of snowshoes!) in the virgin snow when the trail turned off the road, to the left.<br />
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The slow and long ascent finally took me to the foot of Räsävaara's peak and it's lean-to shelter (<i>laavu</i>) which was deserted. I had been expecting to see a trail of smoke rising from there but there was nobody having a break in front of an open fire. There is ready-made firewood available for anyone who wants to sit down and just enjoy the moment in front of an open fire. Howeverm remember to bring your matchsticks and don't use more firewood than necessary!<br />
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Behind the log shelter, Räsävaara rose higher and I spotted yet another sign to the observation tower (<i>näkötorni</i>). The sign was pointing upwards to a steep slope and there were some footprints. The other alternative would have been to follow a snowmobile trail to the top but that was much less appealing! I finally fitted the snowshoes on my boots and began the ascent to the top. <br />
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Yes, it was steep. But not for long, luckily, because I rarely carry hiking poles with me and had left them behind, as usual. I know skiing or hiking poles can be extremely useful in the snow but when you've got a camera with you, it's not very convenient! It was interesting enough to follow the previous walker's footsteps because he (or she) had not been wearing snowshoes so the footprints were pretty small and deep in the snow. Very soon I realized it was easier to step on untouched snow and it became much easier to continue my journey amongst the fir trees and birches covered in lacy frost and heavy coat of snow. <br />
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There were so many different shades of blue up in the sky and the white trees were as if from a fairytale. Where are the elves? Hiding beneath the trees? Gently shaking snowflakes from the treetops as I pass them by? <br />
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I scanned the view ahead and wondered where the observation tower was. There were no paths visible so all I could do was to see where the land was rising and keep going until I would reach the highest point, in the hopes of finding the tower which might well be hidden among the trees, perhaps just as tall as them. <br />
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There were plenty of other footprints on the crisp snow. Most of them were those of hares of whom there are plenty in the area. When I glimpsed between the trees towards Ukko-Koli, the view was mostly obscured by mist and clouds over there although I could see the sun and blue skies on the other side of Räsävaara. <br />
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I could also see the huge expanse of Lake Pielinen in the distance, all white and flat between the mainland and islands. How beautiful! But I still couldn't spot the observation tower. <br />
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Then, all of a sudden, I saw it. The simple, tall structure made of wood, reaching up towards the sky. A solitary, quiet figure guarding the snowy forest and the view around it. I walked slowly towards it and took off my snowshoes before starting my ascent to the very top of Räsävaara. It was a slippery climb up the icy steps but I made it! There was a bit of wind up there, so I was glad to have a hood in my jacket. A simple woollen hat wasn't quite enough. <br />
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But what a view! There is a fabulous 360 degree view to the whole Koli area. The hills (<i>vaara</i>), lakes and the neverending forests, mostly coniferous. Just imagine what this will look like in the spring, in the summer, in the autumn... All the different colours the nature can offer in different seasons... Already, I began to think what it would be like to be here in when the leaves have turned golden. Oh yes, even if there are mostly fir trees, there are plenty of birches and other deciduous trees that change colour in the area.<br />
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Räsävaara isn't the only hilltop that boasts obeservation tower in Koli; there is another great one at Ryläys, but Räsävaara instantly became my personal favourite. The movements of shadows and light, clouds, mist and different colours were simply enchanting. And I've never been able to resist a view from the top. The world beneath my feet. <br />
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After saying goodbye to the shadows and tall trees from the very top of Räsävaara, I again took my snowshoes and made a short detour to the edge of the hill. To my pleasant surprise, I stumbled upon a sign that reveald this spot to have been the inspiration for Finnish artist <b>Eero Järnefelt</b>'s gouache <i>Metsälampi </i>(Pond in the Forest) in about 1895. His artwork depicts the scene in the summer so I couldn't exactly determine how the scenery had changed since but thought it would be interesting to see the original artwork. I wonder where the gouache is these days.<br />
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It took a while to return to Koli village although the journey was mostly downhill and I felt a cup of tea and some berry pie was in order at Kolin Ryynänen. Again. The rest of the way back to the hotel was going to be uphill, after all...<br />
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Someone had written <i>I l</i><i><span class="st">♥</span> Koli</i> on the frosty railing of the wooden observation tower. No, I not me! It was there before I climbed up! But it could have been me - I love Koli!<br />
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I truly felt I'd found a hidden treasure of Koli and know for sure that I will return to Räsävaara some day. Until next time, Räsävaara.</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-48542121861829977062016-03-11T00:32:00.002+02:002016-03-11T00:32:59.798+02:00Magnificent Mäkrä, Koli<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Koli, one of my favourite places in North Karelia, was bathing in gorgeous sunshine, giving special glow to the tall fir trees covered in sparkling snow. What a day! Just perfect for snowshoeing!<br />
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There are marked snowshoeing trails at <a href="http://www.koli.fi/en" target="_blank">Koli</a>, starting from the hotel. The shortest one does a circle round the top and takes you to the best viewing spots. We didn't bother to use our snowshoes at first; so many people had taken the path to the top of Ukko-Koli, the highest peak already that we started our daytrip by carrying our snowshoes. There was plenty of time for leaving our own footprints in the snow.<br />
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The view from the top of Ukko-Koli to Lake Pielinen is breathtaking, no matter what time of the year. In the summer blue takes over, from the sky to the lake, but now everything is white, white, white....And blue. The weather is just perfect, between -5 and -10 <span class="st">°C, keeping the snow dry and crisp.</span><br />
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<span class="st">I feel so lucky to be here.</span><br />
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Time to strap the snowshoes on. Which way? The next, shadowed peak is Mäkrä and I can't take my eyes off it. Mäkrä it is, as if I hadn't already decided... I've once gone up the hill in cross country skis, I've walked there in summertime, and enjoyed its slopes on snowshoes. It has been fun every single time. So why not this time?<br />
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With our snowshoes on, we descended Ukko-Koli and followed the marked showshoe trail for a bit, then stepped aside and learned how deep in the snow we could leave our footprints. Bigfoot's plastic footprints. Yes, walking in the snow even with snowshoes is more strenuous than walking on a clean tarmac but without showshoes making a trail in the snow would be much harder!<br />
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After the first clearing, Mäkränaho, we continued further down via our own trail and soon reached Purolanaho. The soft glow of the sun made the quiet clearing even more beautiful. We stopped for a while to catch our breath and to consider having a snack. Perhaps just not yet, not even a tiny bit of chocolate. Mäkrä first!<br />
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I remembered the climb to the top of Mäkrä both with cross country skis and with snowshoes. I didn't have hiking poles with me - usually prefer to have my hands free even although at times I do miss them sometimes in deep snow when going up or down steep slopes.<br />
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Some other pairs of snowshoes had gone up Mäkrä before us and showed us the way. I didn't mind the ready made trail at all - it was hard enough to walk up the hill and it felt good to stop and take a photograph. No, it wasn't just to steady my breath... <br />
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The climb was well worth it! The view from Mäkrä is amazing. From here you can again see Lake Pielinen in its glory as well as Ukko-Koli where we started our day trip from. The downhill skiing at Koli was not to be heard neither here nor at Ukko-Koli: over here they don't play music next to the ski lifts. The only sounds were the whiff of the wind and our own breath, shuffling of our feet in the snow. <br />
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After we'd gazed at the scenery long enough, we headed for the other western slope of Mäkrä to face the sun. In the distance I could distinguish Lake Herajärvi which has gien its name to a great hiking trail (31-60 km) which isn't as easy as it may sound. The hills, called 'vaara' can be quite strenuous.<br />
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I felt I was in fairytale land. You don't always need to travel as far north as Lapland to see the best of Finnish winter with the snow covered trees and experience the whitest of snow!<br />
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We chose our way down: the summer trail of Mäkrä, marked with green paint on the trees, took us directly to Ikolanaho under yet more snow covered trees. For a bit it felt like we were walking in a tunnel. A tunnel of white beauty. When some light snowflakes fell off the trees above us, glittering in the rays of the sun, it felt surreal. <br />
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Just before reaching Ikolanaho, our chosen stop, I glimpsed towards the cliffs on my right. Loads of icicles, like gigantic teeth of the elves grinning. I wondered what else was there, hiding under the white snow.<br />
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It was finally time for our snack. But first, a small fire. Metsähallitus kindly provides the hikers with dry firewood (you may need to use the axe though!) but it should be used sparingly, because transporting firewood to these places isn't easy and there are lots of people who stop to make a fire - often to cook their dinner if hiking. There is no charge for firewood, either, so be kind to others and don't use more firewood than necessary! Also, if there is a metal grill above the fireplace, do not leave it on the fire after you've fried your sausages, made your toast etc. but turn it to the side because metal grills don't last forever in the heat. We saw the proof of that... A totally ruined grill. Hope it will be replaced soon.<br />
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Our tiny fire was just about enough to heat our sausages - a must! - and we also had some tea from our flask to get warm. The sun was beginning to set soon and it was time to go: mostly uphill again, as we were heading back for Ukko-Koli.<br />
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We followed someone else's snowshoeing trail from Ikolanaho towards Purolanaho at first, but the trail diverted a bit to the left and we soon found ourselves close to the trail that we had first followed towards Mäkrä. There was no way we could get lost: all trails lead to Koli!<br />
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And if you think it's too cold to go snowshoeing at Koli, you are mistaken. Snowshoeing on Koli's slopes can only keep you warm... Still, it was great to go to sauna after our snowy day trip!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-8215559069182129402014-04-16T21:21:00.000+03:002014-04-16T21:21:24.119+03:00Jyväskylä: Devil's Cave, Laajavuori<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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What are the rocks whispering? Stories and memories of days gone by? How did the Devil's Cave (<i>Pirunluola</i> in Finnish) get its name?<br />
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I've never visited a Devil's Cave (believe me, this is not the only of its kind in Finland) so it's time to hunt it down. My sources tell me that it can be found somewhere in the vicinity of Haukkala Spring, at Laajavuori, so after reaching Kortepohja I keep on walking to Haukkalantie road which runs parallel to Laajavuorentie, only closer to lake Tuomiojärvi. However, as soon as I arrive at Haukkalantie road I leave it and turn left, take a narrow path to the forest and start looking.<br />
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There are quite a few tracks meandering in the moss-covered forest but if you are looking for a cave, you know you have to head for the rocks. <br />
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Soon I find myself right below the Spa Hotel Laajavuori and its huge windows. This looks like a promising area for cave-hunting - the rocks are steep enough. It seems to be my lucky day because in no time do I find the entrance to Devil's Cave!<br />
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The entrance to the cave is very narrow but once inside, I'm surprised. The cave is by no means huge but it is not tiny either: this Devil's Cave is a couple of meters long. You don't feel claustrophobic at all. <br />
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Rock paintings are my favourites, but I must admit I prefer the ancient ones dating to the Bronze Age to the graffiti-like paintings from the past few decades that are found here. This one could be a modern version of a typical old Finnish rock painting - an elk. But who the devil was the artist?<br />
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At the other end of the cave there are two narrow openings that let in sunlight. I have no desire to try to squeeze myself a little bit further along the right 'corridor' because I'm sure I would only get stuck or rip my jacket. This is pretty much as far as you can go. I am certain that quite a few visitors must have spent a longer time here, perhaps hiding, or taking shelter from the rain, or even sleeping (judgding by the the remains of a styrofoam sheet). Unfortunately I don't have a plastic bag with me, to take the trash with me. <br />
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So that is Devil's Cave, Laajavuori, Jyväskylä. I still don't have an explanation for the devilish name, but who cares. Devils or demons have been called by different names (for example <i>piru, hiisi, hitto</i>) in Finnish over time and especially rocky areas may have places named after the evil one. This <i>Pirunluola</i> cave isn't marked on the map and it isn't signposted either so you really have to know where to look for it; few locals know about it either. However, it is literally just a stone's throw from the Laajavuori Spa Hotel. Just don't throw a stone at a sleeping devil!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-67341898473251743972013-04-17T00:36:00.000+03:002013-04-17T00:36:42.939+03:00Sarkasvuori rock painting, Juva<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The ice-covered, winding roads force me to drive extremely carefully to my destination at <a href="http://www.juva.fi/en/" target="_blank">Juva</a>, southern Savo, Finland. I take a free mini-cruise on on ferry (1-2 minutes, there is no bridge) to Hirvensalo before reaching Uimasalo and Ristilampi lake. The spring hasn't arrived here just yet although it is on its way; it is still the ice age of winter 2013 and the lakes are frozen which means that I don't need to follow the marked path to the rock paintings. I pick up my snowshoes...<br />
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Or should have bothered to take the snowshoes with me at all? There seems to be so little snow left on the ice that I really don't need to wear them when walking on Ristilampi lake. Oh well, they might come in handy later. <br />
I wonder if that rock has something to do with the rock paintings?<br />
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As soon as I leave the lake the snowshoes come in handy. There is still plenty of snow on the ground. I walk up to the rocks by Ristilampi lake and find out that this is a prehistoric quartz quarry, not yet a place to discover rock paintings. <br />
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In this distant place there have been people hard at work such a long time ago! Just imagine - quartz from this very rock has been used for knives or arrow heads in the Stone, Bronze or Iron Age and the tools used in the excavation weren't exactly modern.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6qWaj5NoN6w/UW28QaYycmI/AAAAAAAALJk/qcVmuoX7JDU/s1600/Icicles-rocks-Ristilampi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6qWaj5NoN6w/UW28QaYycmI/AAAAAAAALJk/qcVmuoX7JDU/s1600/Icicles-rocks-Ristilampi.jpg" /></a></div>
I follow the arrow sign and the occasional red ribbons tied on trees to head for the rock paintings. The ravine between the rocks offers plenty to see around me: there are gorgeous icicle formations both on my right and left. I keep following the red ribbons as long as I can but when there are no further ribbons, keep on walking, in the hopes of arriving at the right place. However, when I reach a lake, I quickly realize that it is a whole lot bigger than the one I have memorized on the map before arriving here so I'd better head back and try again.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sasjL3Tnul8/UW290NCSBHI/AAAAAAAALJs/jAzrR7cZxA8/s1600/Sarkasvuori-winter-Finland.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sasjL3Tnul8/UW290NCSBHI/AAAAAAAALJs/jAzrR7cZxA8/s1600/Sarkasvuori-winter-Finland.jpg" /></a></div>
Yes, it is indeed interesting to be out walking without a printed map, trying to memorize the map from an online service that doesn't seem to be available when I'm on the spot. Wonder why I prefer to carry a printed map with me whenever I can instead of relying always on my cell phone? But no, it isn't really a problem because this is such a small area and I remember which way the right lake was supposed to be. Very soon I am walking on Sarkaslampi lake and start scanning the rocks for a rock painting. It goes on for a while... without success. I should probably have followed the trail (that is somewhere high up) instead of walking on the ice because there might be a sign leading me to the rock painting at this end of the lake.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FitTV_L8DdE/UW3B0IpdvqI/AAAAAAAALKI/AQluMiqxGd4/s1600/Hirvimaalaus-Sarkasvuori.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FitTV_L8DdE/UW3B0IpdvqI/AAAAAAAALKI/AQluMiqxGd4/s1600/Hirvimaalaus-Sarkasvuori.jpg" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JJBCDBV6PvE/UW2_c4JIIkI/AAAAAAAALJ8/hpBXiRwmqww/s1600/Rock-painting-elk-Sarkasvuori-Juva-Finland.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
I keep on walking slowly on the ice and lose my hope of spotting the first rock painting. However, as soon as I have passed the group of guys who have been winter fishing on the lake (and who are enjoying their break by an open fire) I spot an interesting looking rock and a sign beneath it. Once I'm there, it doesn't take long to find the Sarkasvuori rock painting - it is clearly an elk! The rock painting is a couple of metres from the ground - the water level was much higher earlier - and the elk dates probably back to 3300-3700 B.C. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JJBCDBV6PvE/UW2_c4JIIkI/AAAAAAAALJ8/hpBXiRwmqww/s1600/Rock-painting-elk-Sarkasvuori-Juva-Finland.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JJBCDBV6PvE/UW2_c4JIIkI/AAAAAAAALJ8/hpBXiRwmqww/s1600/Rock-painting-elk-Sarkasvuori-Juva-Finland.jpg" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FitTV_L8DdE/UW3B0IpdvqI/AAAAAAAALKI/AQluMiqxGd4/s1600/Hirvimaalaus-Sarkasvuori.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
This is how long-lived artwork was made before spray cans took over. The red paint has survived surprisingly well over the years, telling its greetings from the days gone by so long ago. It is very easy to see the elk but the shape above it could be whatever. A human? I'm glad that the water level in lake Saimaa is exactly where it is now so that it is not possible to reach the elk painting and it can stay as it is, protected by law but unguarded here by a small lake in the middle of nothing. Almost.<br />
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The fishermen return back to the ice and sit down on their stools to continue fishing on this beautiful, sunny day. I wave a hello and walk past them to find my way back to Ristilampi. I feel a pang of sadness; this may well be my last snowshoeing trip this winter that is clearly turning to spring. <br />
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<a href="http://kansalaisen.karttapaikka.fi/karttalinkki/karttalinkki.html?map.x=300&map.y=300&e=549129&n=6829749&scale=8000&tool=merkitse&styles=normal&lang=fi&tool=merkitse&lang=fi" target="_blank">Map of Ristilampi - Sarkasvuori, Juva</a> </div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-3035609186595700692013-04-08T20:25:00.000+03:002013-04-08T22:49:14.436+03:00Laukaa: Scenic Hyyppäänvuori <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7-4NP04kxWc/UWLtdwcLX-I/AAAAAAAALC0/7Cw-PZs2HcQ/s1600/Hyyppaanvuori-Laukaa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7-4NP04kxWc/UWLtdwcLX-I/AAAAAAAALC0/7Cw-PZs2HcQ/s1600/Hyyppaanvuori-Laukaa.jpg" /></a></div>
I just can't imagine a more beautiful day for a snowshoeing trip! My destination is a hilltop which some have claimed to be the equivalent of the famous <a href="http://www.outdoors.fi/koli" target="_blank">Koli</a> (of North Karelia) in the province of Central Finland. <a href="http://kansalaisen.karttapaikka.fi/koordinaatit/koordinaatit.html?e=455236&n=6907173&scale=8000&width=600&height=600&tool=merkitse&lang=fi" target="_blank">Hyyppäänvuori hill</a> is located on the southwestern shore of lake Lievestuore in Laukaa and it rises to 171 meters above sea level. There are more than one path leading to its top; I select the shorter, unmarked one via Ruoholahdentie, being lucky in finding a place to park (for there really isn't parking available) by the side of the road only a little distance away. Also, finding the unmarked trail is easy because there are some footprints in the snow leading to the right direction.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xmDQ2mdVZT4/UWLxuA01bFI/AAAAAAAALDE/UkZRdjKdXZA/s1600/Marked-Trail-Hyyppaanvuori.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xmDQ2mdVZT4/UWLxuA01bFI/AAAAAAAALDE/UkZRdjKdXZA/s1600/Marked-Trail-Hyyppaanvuori.jpg" /></a></div>
Climbing to the top of Hyyppäänvuori is very good excercise. The path winds up the steep hill slowly but surely and I feel almost sorry for the cross-country skier who has also gone up the same way. When I am close to the top, I also encounter the marked trail which joins my path from the west.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Le4XQnU0k1Q/UWLwvizXK9I/AAAAAAAALC8/eQFwWPBTzRM/s1600/Map-Hyyppaanvuori-trail-Laukaa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Le4XQnU0k1Q/UWLwvizXK9I/AAAAAAAALC8/eQFwWPBTzRM/s1600/Map-Hyyppaanvuori-trail-Laukaa.jpg" /></a></div>
Parts of Hyyppäänvuori area are also parts of a nature reserve maintained by <a href="http://www.outdoors.fi/" target="_blank">Metsähallitus</a>. As I'm out here without a map, having arrived here by following instructions only, it's great to see where exactly I am on the map as well as where the marked trail would have been (had I known about it!). Good to know for the next visit which might well take place when the snow is gone.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MTjzjL1QKE8/UWL0TP5k3KI/AAAAAAAALDM/RFHhu30dpiM/s1600/Hyyppaanvuori-view-in-winter-Laukaa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MTjzjL1QKE8/UWL0TP5k3KI/AAAAAAAALDM/RFHhu30dpiM/s1600/Hyyppaanvuori-view-in-winter-Laukaa.jpg" /></a></div>
Well, I must say the view isn't too bad. Not bad at all. The view must be one of the best in Central Finland. And there is no need for an observation tower because there are no trees blocking the panorama and there is a sheer drop right in front of me.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2A5nuLEfuhU/UWL1_1Xsw8I/AAAAAAAALDU/xCmmMcbvC5A/s1600/Hyyppaanvuori-hill-winter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2A5nuLEfuhU/UWL1_1Xsw8I/AAAAAAAALDU/xCmmMcbvC5A/s1600/Hyyppaanvuori-hill-winter.jpg" /></a></div>
The lonely, grey pine tree strikes a weary pose for me. I stand still in the snow for a long time, gazing the blue-tinted view around me, and hear no sound, not even from a distance.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DB_IfkpiTT0/UWL24xAQ88I/AAAAAAAALDc/maMrQd9ugig/s1600/Hyyppaanvuori-old-trees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DB_IfkpiTT0/UWL24xAQ88I/AAAAAAAALDc/maMrQd9ugig/s1600/Hyyppaanvuori-old-trees.jpg" /></a></div>
The other handsome, already grey or slowly greying pine trees may not be hundreds of years old but they are charming just the way they are. Let me think - there was also supposed to be a cave around here. It must be somewhere beneath me.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KoOBfxmdSEg/UWL4BzbAdLI/AAAAAAAALDk/Csacika_6Xw/s1600/Rocks-Hyyppaanvuori.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KoOBfxmdSEg/UWL4BzbAdLI/AAAAAAAALDk/Csacika_6Xw/s1600/Rocks-Hyyppaanvuori.jpg" /></a></div>
I take care in descending the rocky slope in my snowshoes and hope that I won't miss the cave; I have no idea how big or small it could be. Once I'm safely down, I start following the rocks and it seems pretty promising. I wonder if that can already be labeled a cave?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oCXJnmquHaY/UWL4jqjkVJI/AAAAAAAALDs/L6Nu8n9BU68/s1600/Cave-Hyyppaanvuori-laukaa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oCXJnmquHaY/UWL4jqjkVJI/AAAAAAAALDs/L6Nu8n9BU68/s1600/Cave-Hyyppaanvuori-laukaa.jpg" /></a></div>
A couple more steps and... No doubt about it, this is a proper cave and it's easy to enter it, without needing to wriggle in through a tiny hole. I can well imagine someone must have slept here, safe from the wind and the rain. I guess these days this is not meant to be used for spending a night here... and making a fire in this area is forbidden. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2pq74mUULoc/UWL57UBv2wI/AAAAAAAALD0/PSehDXsvyxU/s1600/Rock-in-Hyyppaanvuori.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2pq74mUULoc/UWL57UBv2wI/AAAAAAAALD0/PSehDXsvyxU/s1600/Rock-in-Hyyppaanvuori.jpg" /></a></div>
I climb back up the hill and rejoin the trail that goes round the scenic Hyyppäänvuori, giving a view to almost every direction. If you are visiting Hyyppäänvuori and don't want to go down and visit the cave, you can also get a temporary shelter by sitting under the large rock by the path. Again, making the fire is forbidden and there is no fireplace offered here, unlike in many other nature trails. It is quite understandable because this gorgeous area had better stay as it is! <br />
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I walk down the hill with a light step, choosing a different shortcut to the road in my snowshoes now that I know the way. Hyyppäänvuori may not be the equivalent of Koli, and Lake Lievestuore doesn't exactly equal the huge lake Pielinen in North Karelia, but to me Hyyppäänvuori is now definitely among the most scenic spots in Central Finland. I hope to return here in the summer!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-4904681866309642652013-04-04T22:58:00.002+03:002013-04-04T23:03:02.359+03:00Tornio: Nivavaara hill<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XrIJg3x-Xrc/UVMqpmK9HYI/AAAAAAAAK4w/13XUmWE84Ik/s1600/Nakoalapolkuviitta-Nivavaara.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XrIJg3x-Xrc/UVMqpmK9HYI/AAAAAAAAK4w/13XUmWE84Ik/s1600/Nakoalapolkuviitta-Nivavaara.jpg" /></a></div>
Karunki, Lapland, by Tornio River and E8 road. Close to a roadside car park there is a black sign <i>Näköalapolku</i> <i>(Panorama Path)</i>. We cross the railroad tracks and wonder should we walk straight on or turn left. We keep on walking straight uphill, with the sun behind us, until I realize the road is turning the wrong way, towards the right. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7qU27lfTcTo/UVMkxXJeVGI/AAAAAAAAK4s/10ZBpjR0awk/s1600/Lumikengilla-Nivavaaralle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7qU27lfTcTo/UVMkxXJeVGI/AAAAAAAAK4s/10ZBpjR0awk/s1600/Lumikengilla-Nivavaaralle.jpg" /></a></div>
Guess we missed the panorama path but that's no problem; we're well equipped. A quick check of the map on the cellphone - and it's snowshoe time! We will make our own trail to the top of Nivavaara hill. If we manage to find it, that is.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D_qks0tBfDs/UVMrYrr_ySI/AAAAAAAAK44/zINaimMpRs0/s1600/Lumikuoppia-Nivavaara.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D_qks0tBfDs/UVMrYrr_ySI/AAAAAAAAK44/zINaimMpRs0/s1600/Lumikuoppia-Nivavaara.jpg" /></a></div>
The shadows are creating new shapes on the crisp, windswept snow. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9rByQFijTUI/UUjUg3940BI/AAAAAAAAK00/Acr5-c6TwZM/s1600/Teeri-siiveniskut-hangella.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9rByQFijTUI/UUjUg3940BI/AAAAAAAAK00/Acr5-c6TwZM/s1600/Teeri-siiveniskut-hangella.jpg" /></a></div>
It is totally quiet around us but we are not exactly making a lot of noise. However, the Black Grouse (if that's what it was) manages to hear us approach and takes off to the top of a nearby tree, leaving a snow angel behind him or her. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2mWUvSLD0MU/UVMw0GVwM6I/AAAAAAAAK5I/nVMTMURQH0k/s1600/Lumikenkailya-Nivavaara.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2mWUvSLD0MU/UVMw0GVwM6I/AAAAAAAAK5I/nVMTMURQH0k/s1600/Lumikenkailya-Nivavaara.jpg" /></a></div>
We march on with our snowshoes and try to keep going in the right direction. It isn't exactly easy because the land rises very gently and there are quite a few trees; perhaps that's a bit higher, and that...As if it were hard to find a hilltop! <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pxtWfHeZnKE/UVM9p_keGaI/AAAAAAAAK5Q/wVjUaqq4mAo/s1600/Kelokanto-Nivavaara.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pxtWfHeZnKE/UVM9p_keGaI/AAAAAAAAK5Q/wVjUaqq4mAo/s1600/Kelokanto-Nivavaara.jpg" /></a></div>
This piece of grey wood is what is left of an old tree. A work of art in itself, and probably untouched by human hands. Even mine. It feels good to choose exactly where to go instead of following cross country skiing tracks or a ready made path, even if that would be easier. After a while we however meet snowmobile tracks but that's ok; it seems we're still heading in the right direction.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KGwq-GMmG04/UVNBzyzUOnI/AAAAAAAAK5Y/RBD6jUOIFkA/s1600/Nivavaaran-mastoja-Tornio.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KGwq-GMmG04/UVNBzyzUOnI/AAAAAAAAK5Y/RBD6jUOIFkA/s1600/Nivavaaran-mastoja-Tornio.jpg" /></a></div>
And here we are: on the top of Nivavaara hill where there are some signs of humans in the form of masts and even a little cottage, albeit a deserted one. Down below is the Tornio River thanks to which it is very easy to not get lost - you only have to keep it on your left! <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-57O1qOoaofQ/UVNCb9-Nt0I/AAAAAAAAK5g/QT1WTJapsuU/s1600/Kolmiomittaustornin-jaanteet-Nivavaara.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-57O1qOoaofQ/UVNCb9-Nt0I/AAAAAAAAK5g/QT1WTJapsuU/s1600/Kolmiomittaustornin-jaanteet-Nivavaara.jpg" /></a></div>
My guess is that somewhere under this pile of snow there are the remains of an old triangulation tower so this is probably the very top of Nivavaara hill: 124.4 meters above sea level and a guaranteed lookout spot. <a href="http://lapinkavijat.rovaniemi.fi/maupertuis/mittauspaikat/nivavaara_eng.html" target="_blank">Nivavaara</a> was visited also by <b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Louis_Maupertuis" target="_blank">Pierre Louis de Maupertuis</a></b> in 1736 when this French astronomer and mathematician and his team were conducting their measurements to confirm the shape of the earth. Back then they could see Tornio church tower in the south as well as <a href="http://walkfinland.blogspot.fi/2013/03/ylitornio-panoramic-aavasaksa.html" target="_blank">Aavasaksa hilltop</a> in the north. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N_BNyxwQVF4/UVNGsgAuSZI/AAAAAAAAK5s/3o4TDTDxMWA/s1600/Nivavaaran-maisema-Tornionjoelle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N_BNyxwQVF4/UVNGsgAuSZI/AAAAAAAAK5s/3o4TDTDxMWA/s1600/Nivavaaran-maisema-Tornionjoelle.jpg" /></a></div>
Either the scientists' eyesight was far better than mine or they must have carried a telescope with them. I really can't spot Tornio, looking south. It is far too bright... Anyway, I am quite happy with just enjoying the fabulous view from the top of the hill; a true panorama. How about a cup of tea from a flask? Yes, please!<br />
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Apparently there is a place where you can make a fire somewhere quite near us but we don't bother to look for it seriously. No need. From here we simply need to choose our own way down as we can't miss the road which runs parallel to the Tornio River. There are not too many footprints on the snow, not even by animals... <br />
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We meander downhill through the woods, again ignoring the 'official' trail that must be somewhere close by, under the snow. Soon we arrive among young pines among which there is something taller. It really is a single pine tree but from the distance, counting the tree tops, you could think there are four growing extremely close to each other! No wonder they let it grow... Hope it's gonna stay there for many years to come.</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-72585285165952021372013-03-25T22:30:00.001+02:002013-03-25T22:33:15.203+02:00Ylitornio: Panoramic Aavasaksa<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X6MiErOuOSU/UU9hZNIafMI/AAAAAAAAK3A/Y2m4dTjuqUQ/s1600/Aavasaksan-Kruununpuisto-portti.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X6MiErOuOSU/UU9hZNIafMI/AAAAAAAAK3A/Y2m4dTjuqUQ/s1600/Aavasaksan-Kruununpuisto-portti.jpg" /></a></div>
Oh Aavasaksa beautiful! And thy sky so blue! Aavasaksa and the its neighbour Tornio River valley are among the 27 national attractions in Finland and the site has been famous for centuries, mostly because of Midnight Sun. The hilltop offers great views - also across the border to Sweden - so it is well worth a visit. I plan to take over the hilltop on snowshoes, but put them on only after entering the <i>Aavasaksan kruununpuisto</i> (Aavasaksa's Crown Park - the name dates back to the days when Finland was not yet a democracy). One of the marked routes on Aavasaksa will take me up, around the hilltop and back down to the holiday village. <br />
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I step on the pure, white snow and locate the marked <i>Kruununkierros</i> (<i>Crown Tour</i>) trail; more by the footprints of the previous walker than by the trail marks which are almost totally buried under the snow. I might even attempt to follow the trail without snowshoes but as they give me the liberty to step off the track, I prefer to wear snowshoes. Very soon I spot footprints, or hoof prints by some other creatures. And some fresh droppings. A flock of reindeer must have just passed by! <br />
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Aavasaksa hill is not very steep on this side. However, the gradual ascent soon takes me high enough to get a good view to the south although I am not even close to the hilltop. A sign by the path informs me that there were ancient trees here until <b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maupertuis" target="_blank">Pierre Louis de Maupertuis</a> </b>and his expedition came to Aavasaksa in 1736-37 to conduct their measurements, having determined it a great place as a triangulation point when they were examining the shape of the Earth. To be able to see well enough to the next triangulation points, they needed an open view and thus demanded the trees to be cut down from the hilltop. <br />
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The wind has created interesting formations of snow around some pine trees which typically may grow to a funny, slightly curly shape in a place like this. However, the sun is doing its best to destroy the natural snow hut. <br />
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Aavasaksa's hilltop was never buried underwater like many of its neighbours; after the Ice Age was over and the ice started melting, the hilltop was an island in the ice-cold sea which reached 208 meters higher than the sea level is today. So...the waves were splashing against the rocks not too far from me. Down below is Tengeliö River which goes round Aavasaksa hill before it meets the great Tornio River. I walk a bit further - and over there the fantastic view opens to the north. If the sun is not hidden behind clouds at Midsummer, you simply can't miss it from this hilltop.<br />
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I look to my left and see a statue between the trees. <b>Annikki Kariniemi </b>(1913-84) was a Finnish author whose work focused on her native Lapland. <br />
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There are several marked trails that circle on Aavasaksa - the yellow one is called <i>Sun Tour</i>, the brown one <i>Imperial Tour</i>, the black one <i>Crown Tour</i>. The blue line marks a cross country skiing track. I step off the trail and climb to the top where the buildings are, among them the observation tower from where you get the best views. When I reach the tower, I hear that a flock of reindeer has indeed just passed the hill - did I see them? A close shave. Just their droppings.<br />
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After I brush away a bit of snow, the interesting looking caged rock turns out to be a memorial for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maupertuis" target="_blank"><b>Pierre Louis de Maupertuis</b></a> and the expedition of <i>L'Académie Fran</i><i><span class="st">ç</span>aise</i><i> </i>that came here in mid 18th century to do their measurements. The Swedish astronomer <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anders_Celsius" target="_blank"><b>Anders Celsius</b></a> - who we are to thank for the Celsius thermometer - was also part of this expedition. Based on his measurements along Tornio River, <a href="http://www.histdoc.net/history/maupertu.html" target="_blank">Maupertuis managed to prove</a> that the Earth is flattened near the poles.<br />
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Maupertuis may have been the first to conduct such significant measurements atop Aavasaksa but about one hundred years later another astronomer <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friedrich_Georg_Wilhelm_von_Struve" target="_blank">Friedrich von Struve</a> had the triangulation points marked permanently. Aavasaksa is part of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Struve_Geodetic_Arc" target="_blank">Struve Geodetic Arc</a> which is on the Unesco World Heritage list, as one of the six protected such points in Finland. Struve was also measuring the shape of the earth and he came to Aavasaksa in 1845. The triangulation point is on the highest point of Aavasaksa, at 242 meters above sea level, which is right under the observation tower.<br />
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To my delight, the observation tower is open also in winter! The steps are inside the tower so you can climb up without being exposed to the wind. <br />
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From the observation tower the views are breathtaking on this sunny day which is so bright that my eyes almost hurt. Behind the <i>Imperial Lodge</i> the view extends across the Tornio River which marks the border between Finland and Sweden. So yes, on the other side of the river there are Swedish mountains.<br />
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Tourists and travellers have come to Aavasaksa to admire the views especially in the summer for centuries. One of the people who planned a visit to Aavasaksa as part of his trip to Ostrobothnia and Lapland, was Alexander II, Czar of Russia and Grand Duke of Finland. The <i>Imperial Lodge</i> was built in his honour in 1882 but unfortunately, the Czar never came here. Luckily, the building is still there and it has been restored. <br />
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The Imperial Lodge combines many different styles and different types of ornaments. The Lodge is only open in summer but this is nothing new; I am used to finding closed doors on my winter trips, especially now that the schools' winter holiday season is over. <br />
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So naturally it is not possible to shop in the Jugend style kiosk (1912) either.<br />
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I leave the hilltop and start the descent but instead of heading straight back to the marked trail, enjoy my freedom trail on the pure white snow. There is no fear of getting lost; I can focus on enjoying the sun, the view to Tornio River, the silence around me. Only occasionally do I hear a motor somewhere in the distance. <br />
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Finally, I end up back on the Crown Trail and check out the shelter - very few logs left for making a fire but I'm quite happy without it now - before heading to the holiday village where I started from. <br />
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Goodbye to all the snow-covered trees and the gorgeous views of Aavasaksa! </div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-59444862302165627472013-03-21T00:12:00.000+02:002013-03-21T00:12:08.887+02:00Kemi: Fantasy SnowCastle<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I'm dazzled. There is so much light! The sun is so bright and the sky so blue - this is Kemi, Finland, and the <a href="http://www.snowcastle.net/en/" target="_blank">SnowCastle</a>. This SnowCastle hasn't been built by children; it was sculpted by professionals. The snow castle tradition goes back quite a few years: this is the 18th consecutive snow castle built here. I walk along the frozen seashore towards the monstrous entrance to this winter landmark of Kemi.<br />
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Once inside the snow castle, and especially in the SnowChapel, time stands still. The green light behind the altar is soothing, there are a couple of lit candles to which I add mine. The miniature ship is something that is typically decorating the churches and chapels in the coast and archipelago of Finland.<br />
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There are clear blocks of ice - I wonder if they are pieces of ice from the Gulf of Bothnia - at the end of chapel benches. Very simple artwork. Some couples get married in the chapel of the SnowCastle every year. The atmostphere in such events must be both pretty cool and pretty warm! <br />
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Right next door to the chapel, there is a hall where you can sit down for a hot or cold drink by long tables made of solid ice. If you fall short of conversation topics, just have a look around you - there's plenty to watch and talk about! <br />
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Like the fantastic creatures around you, standing on the floor, or sticking to the ceiling. The theme of the SnowCastle 2013 is Fantasy. <br />
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There are ethereal maidens, fantastic animals but also a huge, gentle looking monster. Who's got his eyes glued to a lovely young ice maiden. <br />
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However, the Ice Maiden doesn't wink an eye but stays cool and keeps her pose. <br />
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I walk from one hall to another, moving from one atmosphere to another. In the Space Gallery there is an eerie blue light, as if it were night time, there are stars and planets in the sky. And some birds. Silent, but angry. <br />
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If it weren't such a bright day and if it were much later, I might feel tempted to stay on and spend a night in the SnowCastle, lie down on the furs <br />
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and fall asleep in the snow hotel room, under the snow fresco with a kid riding on a polar bear...<br />
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But no! I want to get back to the sunlight! On my way out, I pass quite a few gorgeous works of art: more sculptures made of ice or snow, on every room or hall. Hello, ice penguins! How are you doing, Mr Snow Fox? Oh, you just pulled a snow rabbit out of a hat! <br />
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At this time of the day, there are no live performances on the outdoor stage so I head up to the top of the building to get a view of Kemi seashore. All frozen, of course, and the Gulf of Bothnia is all white, with quite a few people either walking or cross country skiing on the ice. What a great view and a great snow castle - Kemi SnowCastle was definitely worth a visit!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-25286133402339572182013-03-17T23:03:00.001+02:002013-03-17T23:03:15.799+02:00Jämsä: Icy Synninlukko gorge<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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There are Paths of Sin (<i>Synninpolku</i> in Finnish) but there is also a <i>Lock of Sin</i> - or at least that is the literal translation of <a href="http://kansalaisen.karttapaikka.fi/karttalinkki/karttalinkki.html?map.x=280&map.y=290&e=399313&n=6864856&scale=8000&tool=merkitse&styles=normal&lang=fi&tool=merkitse&lang=fi" target="_blank"><i>Synninlukko</i></a> which is the name of a gorge in Jämsä, south of Jyväskylä in Central Finland. Finding the place isn't too easy - not least because the snow has covered some of the signs that are desperately trying to guide visitors there. Luckily, I've got my reliable snowshoes with me so it is easy to cover the distance between the road and the gorge; it has been a while since the previous visitor walked here but his or her footprints are still visible. So are those of the hares and foxes.<br />
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If Synninlukko isn't too easy to find, it may have been a blessing at some point. In the old days, the gorge was known as a hiding place (apparently not everyone knew it even then!) but the name may be a variation of some words in the local dialect. '<i>Lukko</i>' (literally '<i>a lock</i>') means a gorge in the local dialect and '<i>synnin ('of lock') </i>refers to birth (<i>'synnyin-', 'syntymä'</i>) and according to one story, someone was actually born here. Who knows. <br />
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I cross a small wooden bridge and follow the previous visitor's footprints slightly towards the left to locate the gorge. There are no signs and since the path is hidden beneath the snow, I sincerely thank the person who came here before me! Soon I find myself surrounded by the tall rocks of the gorge which is about 50 meters wide.<br />
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There are huge blocks of ice hanging down from the rocks as well as sharp icicles on my left. The gorge isn't huge but I think small is beautiful.<br />
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Come to think of it, the rocks are quite tall and steep enough for me. I walk along the bottom of the gorge, step closer to the rocks, feel the ice with my fingers, check the colour and shade of the ice and the patterns in the frost.<br />
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There is plenty of ice in different colours; somewhere the icicles are tinted with blue, somewhere else with brown.<br />
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As it turns out, Synninlukko gorge is an excellent place for exploring different kinds of ice! Although my visit takes place fairly early - it is not really spring yet - there seems to be loads of ice everywhere. <br />
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It is as if there was a huge ice monster on the top of the cliff who is gnarling and baring his teeth to me! Synninlukko gorge will surely be even more handsome as the spring advances.<br />
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Finally, I reach the end of the gorge and climb up to the top of the cliff, to take a snowshoe walk there. There is a small sign that announces I'm at a nature reserve but no further guidance. Should I walk further or turn back? However, as the sunlight seems to be starting to fade and the sky is slowly exposing a shade of pink, it is a clear message to me that I'd better head back.<br />
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This gorge may well be at its best in the winter but I'm already wondering what it is like in here in the summer!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-70093149349460281712013-03-07T21:22:00.003+02:002013-03-07T21:22:52.875+02:00Helsinki: National Library<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fbSF5i7eumE/UTTozDVtxxI/AAAAAAAAKq8/7Yj2dkgCLeo/s1600/Kansalliskirjasto-Helsinki-kattoikkuna.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fbSF5i7eumE/UTTozDVtxxI/AAAAAAAAKq8/7Yj2dkgCLeo/s400/Kansalliskirjasto-Helsinki-kattoikkuna.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
The National Library of Finland, <a href="http://www.nationallibrary.fi/index.html" target="_blank"><i>Kansalliskirjasto</i></a>. It sounds so grand. The building is not the hugest in Finland or in Helsinki, but it has certain grandeur - just look up towards the ceiling once you've left your coat in the cloakroom and your bag in a locker and entered the main hall. This is a home to important books: Finland's printed national heritage. It is the oldest and largest scholarly library in Finland. Thus, well worthy of the gorgeous cupola above my head. Why on earth have I not visited this place before? <br />
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If you are into books, you could easily do a bookish toure in Helsinki: visit interesting libraries and bookshops. You don't need to be intent on buying or even reading to go for a stroll in such places. Besides a historic library such as the National Library (built in 1840-45), situated right next to Senate Square you could stop at more modern ones (the newest is within a stone's throw from this library). Being a book lover, I can't help admiring places like this. I wonder what a... Kindle, well, "room" would like in comparison... <br />
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The South Hall reading room (<i>Eteläinen lukusali</i>) is very inviting. I wish I had time to grab a book, sit down and read for a while like some other visitors have done.<br />
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I walk along the gallery and stop to read at the titles. <i>Valtiopäivät 1888</i>. That is <i>Diet 1888</i> and these are the diaries from those days when Finland wasn't yet independent (that had to wait until 1917) but as an autonomous Grand Duchy, it was allowed certain rights such as its own constitution, legislation and a Diet. In those days, Finland wasn't yet as democratic as today; it was only the nobles, clergy, burghers and peasants that could send their male representatives to<i> Säätyvaltiopäivät</i>. <br />
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I pick up a copy and open it at random. Mr <b>Iivonen</b> of the clergy has made a speech about inn-keeping and feels that peasants understand better than the clergy what is fair for inn-keepers (inns were maintained by peasant class). Free translation: <i>They have brought all kinds of numbers to prove otherwise, but numbers can always be used to defend such things that are not good.</i> The world hasn't changed one bit.<br />
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I browse the library and arrive at <i>Rotunda</i>, the annexe that was built in 1902-06. The huge poster that is hanging there tells about the exhibition that was opened only recently for poet <b>Saima Harmaja</b> (1913-1937) who was born exactly 100 years ago.<br />
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Unfortunately she had poor health and died so young; miss Harmaja only saw three of her well-acclaimed poetry books published before her death and her fourth book was published posthumously. Very little of Saima Harmaja's work has been translated to other languages from Finnish.<br />
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I climb up to the 6th floor - what a great shape this hall has! <br />
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Most visitors to Senate Square in Helsinki probably see the Helsinki Cathedral facade only from the square below (unless they bother to climb up the steps to pay a visit inside). When I step out of the National Library, I face the main entrance to the Cathedral on Unioninkatu street. Daylight is already fading away and it is time to turn on the lights for the night. </div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-58770159555930838312013-03-01T00:12:00.000+02:002013-03-19T22:57:12.329+02:00Korpilahti: Vaarunvuoret nature trail<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-34A9i9kt5gc/USur2BEhcqI/AAAAAAAAKgc/aaBMCL-jPzw/s1600/Vaarunvuori-kyltit-talvi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-34A9i9kt5gc/USur2BEhcqI/AAAAAAAAKgc/aaBMCL-jPzw/s400/Vaarunvuori-kyltit-talvi.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.outdoors.fi/destinations/otherprotectedareas/vaarunvuoret/Pages/Default.aspx" target="_blank">Vaarunvuoret nature trail</a> or "Vaarunpolku" as it is called on the spot, can be found in Korpilahti, about 38 kilometres south from Jyväskylä in Central Finland. The site is located on a scenic route (road 610) between Korpilahti and Joutsa, not very far from Kärkinen bridge that crosses Finland's second biggest lake, Päijänne. <br />
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The footprints before me show me the way but I still prefer to wear my snowshoes - it will be so much easier to step aside when I wish plus you never know how far the previous walkers have gone along the 4 kilometre long trail. As usual, the beaty of the white forest descends upon me like snow flakes, gently, slowly, softly.<br />
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V for Vaarunvuoret. Spruces, pines, a swamp, and finally a small lake surrounded by junipers: Särkijärvi. On the other side of the lake there is the only campfire site in this nature reserve - you simply aren't allowed to make a fire anywhere else. <br />
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On the other hand, it is a bit too early on that I arrive at the campfire site... Yes, there would be plenty of firewood available at the old-fashioned shed but I'm not quite yet in the mood for having a snack. The scenic spot (<i>Vaarunvuoret</i> is literally "Vaaru Hills") is only 0.6 km away but I feel like walking a bit more. However, there is a side track to Korospohja by lake Päijänne - great! <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4VveZ_BCNbQ/USvE4AMIAdI/AAAAAAAAKnA/jKx5KiHqdI8/s1600/Vanha-Vaaruntie-talvi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4VveZ_BCNbQ/USvE4AMIAdI/AAAAAAAAKnA/jKx5KiHqdI8/s400/Vanha-Vaaruntie-talvi.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The track to Korospohja goes downhill all the way and is amazingly straight. The explanation behind it is that before it became part of the hiking trail it was an official road until the 1980's, connecting Luhanka and Korpilahti. The Vanha Vaaruntie road was famous for its steepness and it slowly dawns on me that yes, I do have to walk back uphill! Just imagine a bus driving slowly uphill, with passengers stepping out and perhaps pushing the bus...That was also reality sometimes!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4i_jxQG1MCY/USvAwiBLp-I/AAAAAAAAKlc/zJ82nBq_ezg/s1600/Korospohjanlahti.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4i_jxQG1MCY/USvAwiBLp-I/AAAAAAAAKlc/zJ82nBq_ezg/s400/Korospohjanlahti.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Those who visit Vaarunvuoret area by boat step ashore right here, at Korospohjanlahti bay on the eastern shore of lake Päijänne. Standing here you can't really see that there's a steep hill very close by so I have to walk a bit further to the steepest part, Vaarunjyrkkä, to get some idea. <br />
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After about a kilometre's walk on the ice I arrive at Vaarunjyrkkä's rocky shore. On such a grey day as this and with the rocky hill covered with snow it doesn't look as spectacular as you might expect. However, I can easily imagine how great this all looks in the summer, with bright blue skyes above and the light waves of lake Päijänne splashing against the granite. <br />
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There's always something special to see though: at least some artistic icicles. When I start my return journey to the nature trail via Korospohja, I foolishly change my route on the ice and after a short while realize how heavy my snowshoes have just become. Below the layer of snow, there is already water on the frozen lake - and it means that the slush starts to stick to the bottom of my snowshoes and they're becoming ice shoes. For a second. Until I scrape the ice off them and head quickly as close to the shore as possible and find a better route. It seems that the best season for walking on the ice is now almost over.<br />
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I have a short tea break at Korospohja before climbing back up along
Vanha Vaaruntie road - a wise decision because it isn't exactly a light
walk uphill - but when I arrive back at Särkijärvi campfire site I don't feel like stopping there for making a fire. Onwards! Up! Oh, how the last leg to the top feels so easy! And I'm once again back among the winter fairytale land.<br />
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The Vaarunvuori hill is pretty steep so I'm somewhat surprised to find some cross country skiing tracks heading downhill from the top, across the nature trail track. I truly hope all has gone well before the skiers have arrived at lake Päijänne, somewhere down there. There are so many trees there that it can't be too easy to avoid hitting them on the way. <br />
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Once I'm at the scenic spot, I get a better idea of how tall the Vaarunvuoret hills are - lake Päijänne is so much below me and you can see pretty far through the opening between the trees. The guest book that is hiding in the wooden box is already full and it is hard to find a place where to scribble my signature and there's no telling who was here last and when that was. Beware of the steep hill, says the sign - <i>Varo jyrkännettä</i>.<br />
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I am extremely happy to be wearing snow shoes, judging by the 'trail' which was made by someone who was simply wearing boots. He or she has stepped in pretty steep snow but has still managed to keep going! <br />
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The route marks (blue paint, in places yellow paint) lead me to an opening which is the only place where I can't locate the next trail sign. My own fault for not paying attention perhaps; here the route doesn't actually enter the opening (which is on private land) but goes round it, making a sharp turn to the right and then heading back to the woods. I take a minute to locate the trail again but while I do so, I pay a visit to the snow-covered Loch Päijänne Monster, nature's creation, that actually is looking exactly where the trail is... <br />
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Vaarunvuoret area can surely offer great experiences all year round, and definitely not just in the summer. Yet it would be pretty cool to arrive there on a kayak on a summer's day!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-37187279566237134642013-02-19T14:37:00.000+02:002013-02-19T14:37:00.631+02:00Laukaa: ice and snow at Järvilinna<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-65ZfuyY7JCU/USEqnxPgXvI/AAAAAAAAKXM/rAMSl_eGmHM/s1600/Laukaa-Jarvilinna-talvi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-65ZfuyY7JCU/USEqnxPgXvI/AAAAAAAAKXM/rAMSl_eGmHM/s1600/Laukaa-Jarvilinna-talvi.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.jarvilinna.com/" target="_blank">Järvilinna Art Centre</a> at Laukaa, Central Finland (15 km north from Jyväskylä) hosted an ice sculpting competition on Feb 10-14, finishing on Valentine's Day. A good reason to visit the place which has art on display also indoors in the lovely main building (1891) and the surrounding buildings where some local artists have their own studios.<br />
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The ice sculptures have attracted many other visitors as well and that
is no wonder; this is not a typical art form in Finland, although you
might easily think so, as we have plenty of ice available for a
considerable time each year. The five teams invited to take part in the
competition were from Finland, Mongolia and China (the Russian team
canceled at the last minute). <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1atdD9eReIo/USErX_xgXAI/AAAAAAAAKXU/_AsUzMQkAYc/s1600/Mongolia-Suudelma-Jaaveistos-Jarvilinna.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1atdD9eReIo/USErX_xgXAI/AAAAAAAAKXU/_AsUzMQkAYc/s1600/Mongolia-Suudelma-Jaaveistos-Jarvilinna.jpg" height="280" width="400" /></a></div>
The winner was the humorous <i>Kiss </i>by the team from Mongolia (<b>Lkhagvadorj Dorjsuren</b> and <b>Bayarsaikhan Bazarsad</b>). It suited well the competition's theme - love / friendship (in Finland, Feb 14 is celebrated as Friends' Day, not associated with romantic love). I can't stop wondering at the fantastic, carefully made details - from the tail of the ox (with a knot in it) to the rose and necklace of his cute, slightly shy girlfriend. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EmahD-1IcX0/USEtcwUrHOI/AAAAAAAAKXc/2MoSCHTCdu8/s1600/Hiihtolatu-Jarvilinna-Laukaa.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EmahD-1IcX0/USEtcwUrHOI/AAAAAAAAKXc/2MoSCHTCdu8/s1600/Hiihtolatu-Jarvilinna-Laukaa.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
After a cup of hot chocolate at the café of Järvilinna we pick up our snowshoes and follow the local road for about a kilometre until we locate a cross country skiing trail that will lead us to a log shelter not too far away. As always, you are not supposed to walk on the skiing tracks, so we leave our snowshow footprints on the side of the skiing track, careful not to disturb it. The trail is used all year round but in the winter, the skiing folk naturally take priority. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dV_lH4Y2Lbc/USEvF6xAeCI/AAAAAAAAKXk/thLZzPZ9r4k/s1600/Lumimetsa-Jarvilinna.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dV_lH4Y2Lbc/USEvF6xAeCI/AAAAAAAAKXk/thLZzPZ9r4k/s1600/Lumimetsa-Jarvilinna.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
I must admit that the skiing track looks lovely and this would be a great route for cross-country skiing. However, no matter how slow snowshoeing is, it is such fun to be walking here, taking it easy in the midst of pure, white snow, guessing which animal has left this or that footprint. Those must have been left by a hare, and that must have been a squirrel? <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xZ6GvRZEAwo/USExJjGxzMI/AAAAAAAAKXs/N2f2kGA_G7o/s1600/Laavu-Jarvilinna-Vihtasilta.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xZ6GvRZEAwo/USExJjGxzMI/AAAAAAAAKXs/N2f2kGA_G7o/s1600/Laavu-Jarvilinna-Vihtasilta.jpg" height="258" width="400" /></a></div>
Walking slowly uphill we finally arrive at the log shelter where it would be possible to make a fire. This time we simply sit down to have a cup of tea. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dTXpQ34uWCI/USEyCJVtGeI/AAAAAAAAKX4/s3t5rAIc-40/s1600/Vatti-Vieraskirja-laavu.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dTXpQ34uWCI/USEyCJVtGeI/AAAAAAAAKX4/s3t5rAIc-40/s1600/Vatti-Vieraskirja-laavu.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The guest book of the shelter reveals that the majority of previous visitors have been here on cross country skis. They have meticulously written down their kilometres after their names (14 km, 10 km, etc.). Oh no, I'd better just write my name and not record the somewhat embarrasing 3 km. Only ;-) <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kj-gP89yOVM/USE0EKYJwyI/AAAAAAAAKZE/ZcInK8uGdn4/s1600/Lumikenkailija-metsassa.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kj-gP89yOVM/USE0EKYJwyI/AAAAAAAAKZE/ZcInK8uGdn4/s1600/Lumikenkailija-metsassa.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
After the short break at the shelter we turn to walk back to Järvilinna (about 1 km from here through the woods) but this time we decide not to follow the skiing track. The distance is so short and we are sure not to miss the road close by if we just manage to stick to the right direction. It is liberating to once again choose our own way in the snow. Round that tree, and then over there... <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z8-mVbGTsR0/USE1JOKFN3I/AAAAAAAAKZM/7vW3tB7HRDw/s1600/Vierumaki-Jarvilinna-Laukaa.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z8-mVbGTsR0/USE1JOKFN3I/AAAAAAAAKZM/7vW3tB7HRDw/s1600/Vierumaki-Jarvilinna-Laukaa.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The air here is pure; as a sign of that, there is hanging moss on the trees. The snow gets deeper in the openings between the trees but is nevertheless easy to walk on. We start to climb up a small hill, Vierumäki. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiuejaad3yc/USE1-OtssSI/AAAAAAAAKZU/x96kOuoLgfU/s1600/Kivi-lumimetsa-Laukaa.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiuejaad3yc/USE1-OtssSI/AAAAAAAAKZU/x96kOuoLgfU/s1600/Kivi-lumimetsa-Laukaa.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
We pass by a large rock and a pole that is painted red. I wonder what it means. It is very hard to say if there is something special about it now that it is covered with snow and ice. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-37vRXEUtWkE/USE2aqKVzRI/AAAAAAAAKZc/nneU6jTayXk/s1600/Tikan-kolo-kuusessa-talvi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-37vRXEUtWkE/USE2aqKVzRI/AAAAAAAAKZc/nneU6jTayXk/s1600/Tikan-kolo-kuusessa-talvi.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The fresh little hole in an old spruce is an easier puzzle to solve: it must have been made by a woodpecker only recently. Probably a <a href="http://www.google.fi/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d1/BlackWoods.jpg/250px-BlackWoods.jpg&imgrefurl=http://fi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palok%25C3%25A4rki&h=188&w=250&sz=18&tbnid=Qiv1eCCDjb8bbM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=120&zoom=1&usg=__fJ61u9Qy3WmYMKecsgtfatsagIE=&docid=vZd5ytBDul6vQM&sa=X&ei=J2QiUb3DIIXBtAbbq4F4&ved=0CE0Q9QEwBQ&dur=290" target="_blank">black woodpecker</a>, to be exact. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K81qup3LjVk/USE45idphtI/AAAAAAAAKZk/O53gWBOYDWE/s1600/Vierumaki-kalliot-Jarvilinna-laukaa.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K81qup3LjVk/USE45idphtI/AAAAAAAAKZk/O53gWBOYDWE/s1600/Vierumaki-kalliot-Jarvilinna-laukaa.jpg" height="263" width="400" /> </a></div>
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We descend the hill, going round the steep rocky slope, and arrive by the side of a field. On its other side we can already see the road that leads to Järvilinna Art Centre. One more chance to see the lovely ice sculptures! </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yu_ehNct2No/USE5zNKAcfI/AAAAAAAAKZs/yxmZomGh5Vk/s1600/Jaamuumi-Suomen-latu-Jarvilinna.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yu_ehNct2No/USE5zNKAcfI/AAAAAAAAKZs/yxmZomGh5Vk/s1600/Jaamuumi-Suomen-latu-Jarvilinna.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></div>
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It is already getting late in the afternoon and the lights have been switched at the Art Centre. The skiing Moomin figure welcomes us back to Järvilinna. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zDzOXjtWPoY/USE6eyu4JJI/AAAAAAAAKZ0/YHcfIHwcVj4/s1600/Aarirakkaus-jaaveistos-Jarvilinna.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zDzOXjtWPoY/USE6eyu4JJI/AAAAAAAAKZ0/YHcfIHwcVj4/s1600/Aarirakkaus-jaaveistos-Jarvilinna.jpg" height="360" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Limits of Love</i> (<b>Pasi Ahokas</b> & <b>Juha Käkelä</b>)
became third in the ice sculpture competition, together with the team from China. Angels and Demons can be friends or even lovers, at least on Valentine's Day. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0jlfemopl8Y/USE8SzPAeaI/AAAAAAAAKZ8/qAP_u-4rPLs/s1600/Mongolian-jaaveistos-Kiss-Jarvilinna.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0jlfemopl8Y/USE8SzPAeaI/AAAAAAAAKZ8/qAP_u-4rPLs/s1600/Mongolian-jaaveistos-Kiss-Jarvilinna.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
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I step back to my favourite sculpture, The Kiss. The Mongolian team have impressed me most with their delicate, yet fun sculptures. I can't get over the eyelashes made of ice! Simply fabulous.</div>
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Thanks to all the ice artists at Järvilinna!</div>
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Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-6063137793222351342013-02-18T18:24:00.000+02:002013-02-18T18:24:06.413+02:00Jyväskylä: Snowmen in Kirkkopuisto<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c9xnULhQzIc/URqNAkKMqAI/AAAAAAAAKRs/iRUwAd8W7UY/s1600/Lumiukko-kirkkopuisto-Jkl1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c9xnULhQzIc/URqNAkKMqAI/AAAAAAAAKRs/iRUwAd8W7UY/s1600/Lumiukko-kirkkopuisto-Jkl1.jpg" height="283" width="400" /></a></div>
My evening walk takes me down from Harju to Kirkkopuisto (<i>Church Park</i>) and I start thinking what would be the best place for building snowmen. I expect to find them next to Kauppakatu street - the busiest side of the park - but no way; the snowmen have appeared right in front the City Hall, on the square next to Vapaudenkatu street.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o9gsScxrNuI/URqN-qqfmLI/AAAAAAAAKR0/SYNh7IE6k2k/s1600/Lumiukko-kirkkopuisto-Jkl2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o9gsScxrNuI/URqN-qqfmLI/AAAAAAAAKR0/SYNh7IE6k2k/s1600/Lumiukko-kirkkopuisto-Jkl2.jpg" height="282" width="400" /></a></div>
The snowmen are part of the campaign against global warming. The melancholy looking snowman's plea is "<i>If you save the winter you can save me too and I can make you smile year and year after".</i><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qyGu_82N01Q/URqYDJYhDgI/AAAAAAAAKTE/3F_tsjo8Eto/s1600/Lumiukko-kirkkopuisto-Jkl4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qyGu_82N01Q/URqYDJYhDgI/AAAAAAAAKTE/3F_tsjo8Eto/s400/Lumiukko-kirkkopuisto-Jkl4.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The <a href="http://www.foeeurope.org/Finnish-line-sight-climate-law-151112" target="_blank">Big Ask campaign</a> has been taking place in different cities in Finland and its main aim is to get the decision makers to make a climate law that would be strong enough to make a difference. There are about two dozen snowmen, each carrying their message that is directed at top politicians who are responsible for climate and environmental politics.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GuBjepQC7V4/URqaVT5CnKI/AAAAAAAAKTY/YkI--0FCjoU/s1600/Lumiukko-kirkkopuisto-Jkl5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GuBjepQC7V4/URqaVT5CnKI/AAAAAAAAKTY/YkI--0FCjoU/s400/Lumiukko-kirkkopuisto-Jkl5.jpg" height="282" width="400" /></a></div>
Let's hope that there will be a major change in environmental politics all over the world. "<i>Winter in the year 2020???"</i> I believe and hope there will still be a proper winter with snowmen in Finland in 2020 and for many more decades to come! </div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-44693327910416976582013-02-14T20:28:00.000+02:002013-02-14T20:28:31.029+02:00Jyväskylä: what if...Concert hall underwater?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lLS8rDWDp0E/UReFK2X-kWI/AAAAAAAAKLg/_YOUWGaHWOg/s1600/Vedenalainen-konserttitalo-Jyvaskyla-Ylistonrinne.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lLS8rDWDp0E/UReFK2X-kWI/AAAAAAAAKLg/_YOUWGaHWOg/s1600/Vedenalainen-konserttitalo-Jyvaskyla-Ylistonrinne.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
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My evening walk has taken me to Mattilanniemi campus by lake Jyväsjärvi where these strange lights pierce the frozen lake. What if... The long-planned concert hall had already been built in Jyväskylä. What if it was summer, not winter. What if the concert hall was underwater, not under ice - like it now seems to be? </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KzmA9JdPUTU/UReGQ6WJ51I/AAAAAAAAKLs/OZBcbCUcGOM/s1600/Valokupu-jaalla-Jyvaskyla.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KzmA9JdPUTU/UReGQ6WJ51I/AAAAAAAAKLs/OZBcbCUcGOM/s1600/Valokupu-jaalla-Jyvaskyla.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.designalonen.fi/en/karialonen.html" target="_blank"><b>Kari Alonen</b></a>
is a local artist and sculptor who has created this work of art on the ice, using old skylights from the local health centre (that's why they have numbers on them). If I hadn't spotted a short newspaper article about this, I wouldn't have a clue of what it is about; it would be "just" a lighting installation.<br />
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Alonen has imagined what an underwater concert hall would look like in the winter, with the skylights popping out through the snow and ice.The concert hall has been planned in Jyväskylä for ages, but so far the project has always been postponed until later, due to lack of funding. Alonen jokingly proposed this as a cost-efficient alternative.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GPgfLIppe3Y/UReHMTJTOVI/AAAAAAAAKL4/kGNRtO7jCZ0/s1600/Konserttitalo-veden-alla-Alba-mv.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GPgfLIppe3Y/UReHMTJTOVI/AAAAAAAAKL4/kGNRtO7jCZ0/s1600/Konserttitalo-veden-alla-Alba-mv.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
I recognize the metal wire ball as one of Alonen's previous works that has been on display here earlier as well. I start toying with the underwater concert hall idea but soon find that my feet are pretty firmly on the ground instead. How would you enter the underwater concert hall? How much water is there in this part of the lake? How big a concert hall would fit underwater right here? <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tt5OzCSMduA/UReM_gWUlDI/AAAAAAAAKOQ/qBri3KNdU_4/s1600/Konserttitalo-jaan-alla_Jyvaskyla.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tt5OzCSMduA/UReM_gWUlDI/AAAAAAAAKOQ/qBri3KNdU_4/s1600/Konserttitalo-jaan-alla_Jyvaskyla.jpg" height="213" width="400" /></a></div>
The freshly fallen snow covers the skylights and they cast an eerie light on the ice. What if you could have a peek into the concert hall through the skylights through the windows when walking on the ice in February? Would it be possible to paddle over the concert hall with a kayak? Walk over it in knee-high water? Can't help thinking about <a href="http://youtu.be/B5wDNYivt_s" target="_blank">Feet in the water</a> (by Eva & Manu)! How clear is the lake water several meters deep in the lake - when looking through the windows of the concert hall, would you be able to watch the fish swim? <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q1BC3-kwrI8/UReLdmQXK0I/AAAAAAAAKOE/eJH2YBJ6Pdo/s1600/Konserttitalo-veden-alla-verkkopallo-Jyvaskyla-mv.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q1BC3-kwrI8/UReLdmQXK0I/AAAAAAAAKOE/eJH2YBJ6Pdo/s1600/Konserttitalo-veden-alla-verkkopallo-Jyvaskyla-mv.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></div>
You can go on and on thinking what if... However, for now I'll look at this light installation as a work of art and not take it too deep.</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-80003638660964439002013-02-11T20:12:00.000+02:002013-02-11T20:12:46.031+02:00Laukaa: Multamäki nature trail<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--U1HXmKpTgs/URFRZYkY7ZI/AAAAAAAAKG8/zD5MFIghptw/s1600/Multamaen-luontopolku-kyltti-talvi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--U1HXmKpTgs/URFRZYkY7ZI/AAAAAAAAKG8/zD5MFIghptw/s1600/Multamaen-luontopolku-kyltti-talvi.jpg" height="282" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.ymparisto.fi/default.asp?contentid=140323&lan=fi#a1">Multamäki nature trail</a> can be found in Laukaa, close to Peurunkajärvi lake in Central Finland. The easiest route to the start of the trail is via <a href="http://www.peurunka.fi/en" target="_blank">Spa Hotel Peurunka</a> (few kilometres north from Laukaa): drive past the spa hotel buildings and follow the road towards Finninkylä and further until Multamäki. In the winter you may find the private road to Multamäki closed - and the nature trail (<i>luontopolku</i>) sign can be seen right next to the gate. If you are lucky, you may even be able to park by the side of the road - if there isn't too much snow! <br />
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I am equipped with snowshoes which proves to be a clever choice because although there is a snowmobile track at the start of the trail, it is made for cross country skiing and not for walking, and very soon we need to part anyway; the nature trail takes a sharp turn to the left and I see virgin snow ahead. The yellow trail signs lead me to the official start of the Multamäki nature trail with a map depicting the route. It seems that no one has stopped here for a snack for quite some time! <br />
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This seems to be one of the best marked nature trails in Jyväskylä area - thanks to Laukaa municipality which seems to take excellent care of such routes! <br />
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As is typical on nature trails, there are quite a few signs with more information about nature along the way. However, the snowy weather has covered practically all of them and even if you brush the snow off, the text (in Finnish) is hardly legible because you'd need to scrape the ice off as well. I'm not in the mood for doing that with my woollen mittens! Also, typically these guides describe things that would be easiest to discover when there is no snow on the ground. <br />
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So, my walk in the forest is simply a pleasure walk, enjoying the beautiful scenery, the shapes covered with pure white snow, examining footprints and guessing who or what has gone past. Those could be the footprints of elks...<br />
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If I wasn't wearing snowshoes, I might be tempted to try a different route but now there's no stopping me. Straight ahead! Anyway, only few meters away I find a fresh trail of another snowshoe walker who makes my going even lighter in the powder snow. I climb up the hill and soon the nature trail again joins a wide trail made by a snowmobile. Careful... But there are no cross country skiers in sight.<br />
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Step by step I reach the very top of Multamäki hill, the highest point of the trail. Multamäki hill is part of the original so-called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Struve_Geodetic_Arc" target="_blank">Struve Geodetic Arc</a> (#46) which was measured and marked in the mid 19th century in different countries. There was a survey triangulation station for quite a long time but the last wooden station from 1980 is long gone; in its place is now the <i>kota</i> under which the original plaque still exists.<br />
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The view from Multamäki hill is lovely; I am now at 211.4 meters above sea level and lake Peurunkajärvi
is about 105 meters below me. Besides the kota (which is the only place where you are allowed to make a fire here on top of the hill) there is also an open shelter for enjoying a snack outdoors. There are quite a few footprints on the snow so this seems to be a pretty popular place. <br />
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From the top of Multamäki hill, the nature trail continues down towards the lake, along long and steep wooden steps that are totally covered with snow. Should I take off my snowshoes? No way! I step off the steps and partly slide down the steep hill in the snow, falling down only once...This is so much fun!<br />
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When I get down to lake Peurunkajärvi I could even take off my snowshoes because there have been so many other visitors to the shelter - the path in the snow would be so easy to walk on. I can't see anyone skiing on the lake but there are a couple of ice fishermen! <br />
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I arrive at exactly the same time to the open shelter as one of the fishermen comes there for his break. Once again, I get to sit in front of a ready made fire and enjoy the moment with hot tea from my thermos flask. Another fisherman joins us and says a shy hello. The fishermen seem surprisingly quiet but soon I find out why: we don't share the same language. Unfortunately, I don't speak Russian so I can't ask whether they've had any luck fishing.<br />
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After the relaxing, quiet break by the lake I walk up the hill to finish the trail that goes past some tepees - a surprising sight in a Finnish forest but I suppose they are there for children's camps that are sometimes held at the nearby Multamäki recreation centre, owned by Laukaa municipality. After I've passed the Multamäki centre's buildings, the nature trail sign guides me to join the snowmobile track for the remaining 100-200 meters but I step off it, not wanting to leave my snow shoe prints on a trail that has been made for cross country skiing. <br />
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As usual, many trails that are used by walkers for 3/4 of the year when we don't have snow, turn into cross country skiing tracks in the winter. I try to avoid such tracks when I go for a walk and the best way to do it is to wear snowshoes which allow you to walk anywhere - but it may be frustrating if you see that the lovely, hard and wide track is unused when you are stepping deep in the snow. If you ski in the traditional style, there would be room for both skiers and walkers side by side on the track made by a snowmobile, but those who ski fast use ski skating technique which requires the full width of the wide track... So, unless you are skiing yourself, it is best to stay off the skiing tracks whenever possible, and walk somewhere else. </div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-37645925827131604882013-02-05T00:12:00.000+02:002013-02-05T00:12:25.989+02:00Nyrölä nature trail in winter<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Nyrölä is a small village about 20 kilometres northwest from Jyväskylä. It is best known for its <a href="http://www.kallioplanetaario.fi/" target="_blank">Kallioplanetaario</a> (<i>Planetarium</i>, open daily) but offers also a chance for a nice walk on the well-kept nature trail. On a winter's day just the ride to Nyrölä is a joy: after leaving the town, the woods surrounding the roads are wearing their best winter robes. My only question is whether the Nyrölä nature trail is "open" in the winter as well. That is, have there been other walkers before me?<br />
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The whole circular trail is about 3 kilometres long but nobody seems to have walked the whole route recently; I can only see footprints in the direction of the Iso-Musta lake where the closest <i>laavu</i> shelter is. No problem! I've got snowshoes with me...<br />
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Whereas the snow may already have fallen on the ground in the city centre where it is somewhat warmer, there is plenty of the white stuff over here - and not just on the ground. I could easily make my walk shorter (and easier) by following the narrow road on which a snowmobile has made a track recently but when I see the snow-covered sign <i>Luontopolku</i> (<i>nature trail) </i>it is much more inviting. Snow, snow and more snow! <br />
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I enter the woods and start following the trail signs that mostly consist of yellow-topped wooden poles (originally haypoles) but there are also a couple of paint marks on the trees, probably made with reflective paint. Using that kind of paint is not a bad idea at all if you happen to be on the trail after dark. <br />
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If I wasn't wearing snowshoes my progress would be much slower! And if the trail wasn't so well marked it would be very easy not to know which way to go because you can't always tell which way the path, now totally covered with snow, is turning. The only other footprints I discover between these trees belong to small animals. <br />
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I can still remember what it looked like in here on <a href="http://jalkaisin.blogspot.fi/2011/10/nyrolan-luontopolku.html" target="_blank">my last visit to Nyrölä nature path</a>; so different, so green. Behind these trees there is a small man-made pond which was dug in a place where there was a natural spring. A recent local newspaper article revealed that the name <i>Nyrölä</i> originates from the word <i>nyry</i> (<i>nira</i>) which means a small trail of water, according to the writer <b>Ilmari Kosonen</b>.<br />
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The trail leaves the forest and I am again surrounded by open space. I turn to look to my right. The snow and frost covered trees are simply stunning - like a graphic illustration, almost surreal in its beauty. <br />
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Locating the haypoles and a dash of yellow paint isn't always too easy... The nature sometimes plays tricks on you. I find a couple of them but then... Nothing. However, I know the trail is supposed to meet the narrow road right ahead and it takes only a minute or two to be back on track. <br />
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Somebody's been busy felling trees! There is a huge pile of firewood waiting to be collected by the side of the road. I continue walking uphill along the snowmobile trail and remember the gorgeous green moss below the fir trees on a certain October day more than a year ago. <br />
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I know most people enjoy the Finnish winter on skis but snowshoes are my favourite. Although the snowmobile has made walking here even easier, we go different ways from the top of the hill and I get to walk downhill on virgin snow, making my very own path. I just love it! <br />
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The dense spruce forest has an almost eerie atmosphere and again I feel I'm watching a graphic illustration. <br />
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Time for a break? This beautiful lean-to offers a chance to make a fire and sit under the shelter, no matter the weather. The last time I was here it was almost ready for use but not quite. This would be a great place for star-gazing on a clear night, with the open sky above and no street lights disturbing the view. <br />
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However, I decide to walk just a bit further. Within a short distance, on the other side of the bog, there is the Iso-Musta lake and the small island where there is another shelter. No need to use the tiny ferry to cross the lake now that the lake is frozen... Do I smell smoke? <br />
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Oh yes! The group of people that I just saw leaving the island had a fire going and the embers are still there, burning hot. It only takes a couple of puffs to get the fire going again. Time to sit down by the fire and have a cup of hot tea from a <i>kuksa</i>, a traditional cup made of wood, and some <i>pulla</i> (<i>a bun</i>). What a great day!<br />
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From Iso-Musta the circular trail continues back towards the parking lot, following first a path and then a wider trail. The remaining 1.2 kilometres offer more of beautiful winter scenery now that the felled area is covered with snow. <br />
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The young birch creates an arch above the trail, thanks to the weight of the snow. The poor tree will straighten her back after the snow has melted. The path is now pretty firm under my feet; so firm that I take off my snowshoes and walk the rest of the way carrying them in my hands. You don't always need to have clear blue skies for the day to be beautiful; black and white can be equally gorgeous.</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-5025530305899835762013-01-31T23:54:00.002+02:002013-01-31T23:54:19.383+02:00Korpilahti: Path of Sin<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Korpilahti is a community about 30 kilometres south from Jyväskylä. Since 2009 it has been officially part of the city of Jyväskylä, but I somehow feel that there haven't been too many changes taking place here - at least not to a visitor's eye. Quite a few smaller communities in Finland have joined forces with their bigger neighbours in the past few years to save money in administration etc. Korpilahti's history as an independent community goes back to 1867 and this mill by Korpijoki river is almost as old, dating to 1874. I reach the frozen shore of the narrow river but at this time of the year I can't see or hear water flowing beneath the ice and snow. <br />
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The interesting looking wooden structure that is hanging on the outer wall surely isn't just a decoration. After making my way through the snow to the wall and a piece of paper I get an idea of what it is, based on the black and white photo: originally this piece was part of a horizontal wooden structure to which a horse was tied. The horse walked round a pole, rotating this large wooden wheel, which in turn must have kept another piece of machinery in motion. Unfortunately there are no further details available.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xLzBD2znEXg/UQbAhLzeNMI/AAAAAAAAJ2w/z9HBLPqf-ik/s1600/Vanha-mylly-Korpilahti-piharakennus.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xLzBD2znEXg/UQbAhLzeNMI/AAAAAAAAJ2w/z9HBLPqf-ik/s1600/Vanha-mylly-Korpilahti-piharakennus.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The other buildings at the Old Mill (<i>Vanha mylly</i>) are not painted red but have become grey over the years. This is truly the old style. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EBUGgrcIoOE/UQa-lhBau8I/AAAAAAAAJ1w/LJaVnl8-a3Q/s1600/Korpijoki-kapea-uoma-talvi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EBUGgrcIoOE/UQa-lhBau8I/AAAAAAAAJ1w/LJaVnl8-a3Q/s1600/Korpijoki-kapea-uoma-talvi.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
There is a narrow path, made by previous walkers, up from the mill, following the river. No, I can't make myself call it a river... Rather, it is a narrow brook. I reach the pedestrian bridge and turn back just before the highway. This must be a gorgeous place in the spring! <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QidITN1P3ik/UQbKOVJgRII/AAAAAAAAJ4w/d8TBxkbmTuc/s1600/Martinpolku-Korpilahti.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QidITN1P3ik/UQbKOVJgRII/AAAAAAAAJ4w/d8TBxkbmTuc/s1600/Martinpolku-Korpilahti.jpg" height="256" width="400" /></a></div>
I pass the Old Mill area and follow the footpath towards the centre of Korpilahti, reaching <i>Martinpolku</i> (Martti's Path) which is clearly the main street here. The street is named after <b>Martti Korpilahti</b> who was not only born with the name of the community itself but gained fame in Central Finland as a poet and a music man, besides being a teacher in Jyväskylä. Martti Korpilahti was proud to be born in the area and his lyrics depict his love of Central Finland. Besides <i>Martinpolku</i>, Mr Korpilahti has had another path named after him in the city of Jyväskylä by lake Tuomiojärvi. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iVNn1IJklhw/UQbKnKrPBaI/AAAAAAAAJ44/DLb3Dtc1eCI/s1600/Martinpolku-vanha-talo-Korpilahti.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iVNn1IJklhw/UQbKnKrPBaI/AAAAAAAAJ44/DLb3Dtc1eCI/s1600/Martinpolku-vanha-talo-Korpilahti.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
There are both old and new buildings along Martinpolku. As usual, I feel more at home with the wooden ones and am glad that there are quite a few of them left, and some seem to have been or are being renovated as well. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--FgvPeDK13M/UQbLcfkQaEI/AAAAAAAAJ5A/inow9ye8A40/s1600/Synninpolku-Korpilahti.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--FgvPeDK13M/UQbLcfkQaEI/AAAAAAAAJ5A/inow9ye8A40/s1600/Synninpolku-Korpilahti.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
<i>Synninpolku</i> literally means a <i>Path of Sin</i>. What on earth is this? The sign points down but actually the Path of Sin starts a bit lower and leads to the very top of the hill, to the church. Very probably the path gained its name because of the fairly steep hill - perhaps the walkers felt the sweat on their foreheads and had time to think about all their wrongdoings when climbing to the top, to ask for forgiveness in the church. Right next to the path, the red building, dating to 1777, houses the local museum which is only open in summertime. The building first first served as a belfry but it became a granary later.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KTVtA2ikC1A/UQbMXHUnfgI/AAAAAAAAJ5I/PyFWefrk7N4/s1600/Korpilahti-kavelyreitti-kirkonmaelle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KTVtA2ikC1A/UQbMXHUnfgI/AAAAAAAAJ5I/PyFWefrk7N4/s1600/Korpilahti-kavelyreitti-kirkonmaelle.jpg" height="278" width="400" /></a></div>
I feel compelled to follow the Path of Sin. It isn't Sunday today so I am sure the church doors will be closed but at least I'll get the feel of the path. On the piece of paper that is taped on the litter bin it modestly says "a walking route to the church hill" instead. Come on, be proud! Not every village has a Path of Sin! <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-44e5B-F2w2s/UQbNJlvYxuI/AAAAAAAAJ5Q/Z5OSYwe6gT0/s1600/Martti-Korpilahti-muistomerkki.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-44e5B-F2w2s/UQbNJlvYxuI/AAAAAAAAJ5Q/Z5OSYwe6gT0/s1600/Martti-Korpilahti-muistomerkki.jpg" height="400" width="276" /></a></div>
The partly snow-covered granite statue by the Path of Sin pays homage to Martti Korpilahti, who else! I make my own trail in the snow to walk to it and round it and wonder what the story behind it is. I have no idea what Mr Korpilahti looked like so can't say if the statue has his profile or not. The poet's own words are engraved in the stone: <i>En kotiseudulleni tiedä vertaa</i> (<i>There is no place like my home region</i>).<br />
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Step by step I get closer to the top of the hill. I can imagine that on a hot summer's day it would be easy to feel the burden of your sins walking up there, especially the sin of laziness, if you're not too fit. The wooden belfry meets me first; its architectural style is somewhat different, a bit more decorative, than that of the church behind it. Also, the paint is not the same colour. <br />
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Korpilahti's lutheran church is the third church here; the first was built in 1693 and this last one, designed by architect <b>Charles Bassi</b>, dates to 1827. I try the door but since there is no service today, the door remains closed. One of the architects who have been involved in the restoration work of this church over the years was <b>Alvar Aalto</b>, back in 1928.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9okIQtG5e_g/UQbQ-5R0XwI/AAAAAAAAJ8Q/bES0J1M13xw/s1600/Talvimaisema-Korpilahti-kirkonmaki.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9okIQtG5e_g/UQbQ-5R0XwI/AAAAAAAAJ8Q/bES0J1M13xw/s1600/Talvimaisema-Korpilahti-kirkonmaki.jpg" height="400" width="297" /></a></div>
The footpath on the top of the church hill doesn't go a full circle so I need to retrace my steps back towards the Path of Sin. What a great view this hill offers! If only it were a sunny day, it would be even greater - and I can't even imagine how wonderful it must look like when the lake Päijänne glitters down below in the summer. However, I get a sinful thought when walking down the Path of Sin. I wish I had a sled! It would be great to sled down the hill, no matter how much I enjoy walking.<br />
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I pass the old museum building and continue along the Path of Sin down towards the harbour. The rock fence is covered in snow and ice, with little works of Nature's art on the rocks. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x-461d7hhDk/UQbR3QrywdI/AAAAAAAAJ8Y/CaSc5xdP4Ws/s1600/Korpilahti-kiviaita-vuosiluku.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x-461d7hhDk/UQbR3QrywdI/AAAAAAAAJ8Y/CaSc5xdP4Ws/s1600/Korpilahti-kiviaita-vuosiluku.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
There are also traces of human hand. A date from 1849 has been carved in stone, if I read it right. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t74kJTq0RWs/UQbVF2QqCvI/AAAAAAAAJ-o/h9oEY1o568o/s1600/Korpilahden-teatteri.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t74kJTq0RWs/UQbVF2QqCvI/AAAAAAAAJ-o/h9oEY1o568o/s1600/Korpilahden-teatteri.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
Across the road, there is a quiet area with lots of boats having a rest under tarpaulins until the spring arrives again. The red brick building next to me these days houses Korpilahti's theatre; originally, there was a steam generator for the saw mill. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i0dsA9iXVR8/UQbXAZbQGyI/AAAAAAAAJ_s/U2RUf9vgL7A/s1600/Korpilahti-Hoyrygalleria.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i0dsA9iXVR8/UQbXAZbQGyI/AAAAAAAAJ_s/U2RUf9vgL7A/s1600/Korpilahti-Hoyrygalleria.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
And before the theatre moved to its current location, it was located in another red brick building at the harbour area, close to <a href="http://www.satamakapteeni.fi/" target="_blank">Satamakapteeni</a> café-restaurant which is open all year round. Part of the text painted on the red brick building has been erased - the word 'theatre'- so it now spells <i>Korpilahden kesä</i> (<i>Korpilahti's summer</i>) instead. Today the building is home to an art gallery and an arts & crafts shop: <a href="http://www.hoyrygalleria.fi/" target="_blank"><i>Höyrygalleria</i></a> and <i><a href="http://www.emalipuu.fi/" target="_blank">Emalipuu</a>. </i><br />
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The art gallery upstairs now displays paintings by <b>Marja Hirvinen </b>in her exhibition on enchanting landscapes, <a href="http://hoyrygalleria.blogspot.fi/2013/01/tammikuun-nayttelytiedote.html" target="_blank"><b></b> <i>Maisemien lumous</i></a><i>. </i>I can imagine that quite a few of them have been inspired right here, enjoying the atmosphere of Korpilahti and lake Päijänne. It is easy to forget about the snow when you look at her work.<br />
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The gallery itself is charming as well. My eyes are drawn to the bright red chairs that keep an eye on the gallery visitors like two old and alert ladies. <br />
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I return back outside and breath in the vast landscape that opens before my eyes, with black dots moving rhythmically on the ice, pairs of skis sliding forward. Korpilahti and lake Päijänne - what a great combination.</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-28231965882771154922013-01-17T22:45:00.000+02:002013-01-17T22:45:07.990+02:00Jyväskylä: Snow and Castle<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The footpath by the lake at Kortesuo, Jyväskylä is easy to walk on - surprisingly, there's been a snow plough - but I turn my eyes towards the frozen lake Tuomiojärvi. There are some people skiing on the ice. For me, this means that it must be safe enough to be walking on the ice as well so I step down on the lake. The shadows that fall on the snow are long around noon; the days are still very short. <br />
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My boots don't sink too deep in the light powder. Often there is less snow on the frozen lakes than in the forests and fields. There is a light mist hanging over Löylyjoki-Kivelänranta area on the opposite shore. I wonder whether I should look for a trail made by people walking here before me or make my own track? <br />
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Actually, there's no choice. Of course I'll make my own track. It is so liberating to be sauntering on ice and go anywhere I want to go and not even get exhausted, thanks to there being so little snow. I turn towards Laajavuori where the mist is rising towards the sky like a cloud of smoke. Do I hear an announcement through a loudspeaker? There could be a skiing race going on. Perhaps the mist is artificial snow in the making, for the ski slopes.<br />
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I spot a couple of other walkers on the ice as well. It means that there will be more and more trails on the snow that was almost untrodden for days. Finally, I end up at Viitaniemi where the mid-day sun is glistening on the snowy trees. <br />
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The closer to the shore, the more there is snow. Above me the alders are dressed in their most beautiful, lacy winter outfits. <br />
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I start looking for a place where it would be easiest to climb to the footpath on the shore. When I see the frozen reeds I freeze myself, if only for a moment - to admire the fragile union of the reeds and the snow, so transparent in the sun. </div>
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I feel so elated when strolling through Viitaniemi park that I almost forget to look around me. Luckily, I slow down and turn my eyes towards Kasinonmäki hill which has a new, temporary building: a snow castle! The footsteps heading towards me are not only made by human feet; a hare has also paid a visit to it.<br />
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The builders of the snow castle seem to have checked exactly the right time to make their move: the snow has to have the right consistency and the weather has to be not too warm and not too cold, if you want to use blocks of snow like these people seem to have done. Snow engineering. <br />
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I enter the snow castle through the entrance at the back. There are small peeping holes to different directions that give a new outlook to Viitaniemi - framed with snow. I really hope this snow castle will stay intact as long as possible.<br />
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Farewell, restful Viitaniemi; I will head towards Jyväskylä city centre. To my pleasant surprise, it is also calm and almost sleepy there on this afternoon. The winter mist and the sun paint a somewhat eerie scene on the sky at the end of Harjukatu street. It is as if the solitary bus parked by the side of the street is waiting for passengers to a journey that would take you somewhere beyond the sun.</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-49053841516786923222013-01-02T22:58:00.000+02:002013-01-02T22:58:06.597+02:00Saarijärvi: Winter at Kulhanvuori<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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What a glorious winter day! I can't resist the call of the bright sunlight and the snow but drive about 90 kilometers northwest from Jyväskylä to a beautiful, quiet corner of Central Finland: my destination is <a href="http://www.luontoon.fi/retkikohteet/muutsuojelualueet/kulhanvuori/kartatjakulkuyhteydet/Sivut/Default.aspx" target="_blank">Kulhanvuori area at Saarijärvi</a>. The wooden signpost at Konttimäentie road is covered with frost and snow but it is legible enough: Kulhanvuori it is. I park the car by the side of the road and walk along the narrow trail made by the previous visitors; the last bit of road that leads to the car park hasn't seen a snow plough this season. The nature reserve welcomes me after about 1.5 km walk. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uOnDh2PnvQg/UOSGzR5-SlI/AAAAAAAAJX8/w1XEnDDvQLo/s1600/Shelter-for-trees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uOnDh2PnvQg/UOSGzR5-SlI/AAAAAAAAJX8/w1XEnDDvQLo/s1600/Shelter-for-trees.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
Of course, I could have worn or even taken my snow shoes with me... But I half forgot them in the car when I saw the trail leading to the nature reserve. Plus there isn't that much snow, really. Only about 20-30 cm in most places. Nevertheless, I trust my instinct and follow the trail made by the previous visitors - surely they've followed the nature trail as well? At least they've made a fire by the Iso-Musta lake although there isnt' that much firewood left for hikers right now. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--meRTcwcOSQ/UOSGtiJZ3_I/AAAAAAAAJX0/VdGvvIaCvtk/s1600/Mid-day-winter-sun.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--meRTcwcOSQ/UOSGtiJZ3_I/AAAAAAAAJX0/VdGvvIaCvtk/s1600/Mid-day-winter-sun.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
Looking at the frozen lake, I see only the happily circling footprints of the people who've been here before me. Perhaps today, perhaps yesterday, or the day before. Suddenly the sky changes colour, and the sun almost disappears behind mist that looks like it is trying to choke the source of light. The tricks that cold weather <span class="st"></span>plays - it is so hard to believe that it isn't late afternoon but this it is hardly after mid-day. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RN-2BPvxlfI/UOSGpYC4O_I/AAAAAAAAJXs/MNlqX0XvzJc/s1600/Snowy-path.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RN-2BPvxlfI/UOSGpYC4O_I/AAAAAAAAJXs/MNlqX0XvzJc/s1600/Snowy-path.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The path by Iso-Musta lake is surrounded by the magical, dimmed light of this strangely beautiful winter day. Come to think of it, I could stop here and make a fire and just enjoy the magic, but the call of the trail is far too loud. Let's see where the path will take me. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1bgl-V2nS-o/UOSGhp0x_NI/AAAAAAAAJXk/Z-bav8hOTB4/s1600/Pieni-Musta-lake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1bgl-V2nS-o/UOSGhp0x_NI/AAAAAAAAJXk/Z-bav8hOTB4/s1600/Pieni-Musta-lake.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The marked nature trail turns right at the partly frozen brook that leads from Iso-Musta lake to its smaller sister, Pieni-Musta lake. However, this is also where the footprints end and I have to decide whether to keep going - without snow shoes - or turn back. After a moment's thought I turn my eyes to the trail marks. If the trail seems to be marked well enough, I'll trample in the snow and do the nature trail. If at some point it doesn't seem like a good idea anymore, I can always turn back. Anyway, I am wearing gaiters so snow won't get into my hiking boots. <br />
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I breath in the crisp air, the scenery powdered in white. It doesn't feel cold at all; what is -16<span class="st">°C on a day like this? I admire the shapes and the details around me, find a foothold on the duckboards that are almost totally hidden under the snow. The trail steers to the right, through the narrow opening between the trees. I follow the trail marks and leave my footprints on the untrodden snow. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VtJiVZBySJ0/UOSGWeBCpZI/AAAAAAAAJXU/biTitcGMn3g/s1600/Nature-path-in-the-snow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VtJiVZBySJ0/UOSGWeBCpZI/AAAAAAAAJXU/biTitcGMn3g/s1600/Nature-path-in-the-snow.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
I walk under spruces and meet tall pine trees. An old, grey wooden sign reminds that I am still walking along the nature path (<i>luontopolku</i>). Snow embraces every single tree and the forest oozes inner peace. The only sounds I hear are my own footsteps on the snow and my clothes rustling.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KnU1pE6mZVw/UOSGQYEt4YI/AAAAAAAAJXM/Hmln71zjfgM/s1600/Old-tree-not-so-grey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KnU1pE6mZVw/UOSGQYEt4YI/AAAAAAAAJXM/Hmln71zjfgM/s1600/Old-tree-not-so-grey.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The old tree by the path is pretty much the only spot of colour in these woods in which everything seems to be painted with different shades of black, grey and white. Suddenly I hear something behind the trees. And then the swish of something white, a dash of black. The willow grouses have left their resting places in the snow and gone off for somewhere more quiet. Sorry! <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XLGbgAif3aM/UOSGL7yxl9I/AAAAAAAAJXE/Ce8OJv0BFmg/s1600/Syvaoja-gorge-Saarijarvi-winter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XLGbgAif3aM/UOSGL7yxl9I/AAAAAAAAJXE/Ce8OJv0BFmg/s1600/Syvaoja-gorge-Saarijarvi-winter.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
I feel elated and my step is light after seeing the willow grouses. It is not easy to spot them in Central Finland! Very soon I arrive at a place where I need to be careful of a steep fall (luckily there is a railing!); there is even a yellow warning sign. Syväoja Gorge is about 1 kilometre long and the nature trail follows it for part of the way, mostly on the top of the cliff. Somewhere at the bottom of the gorge there is a brook called Syväoja.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l6sup2L2tOs/UOSGHX6kjtI/AAAAAAAAJW8/djmNFxRvOnw/s1600/Syvaoja-gorge-ice-wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l6sup2L2tOs/UOSGHX6kjtI/AAAAAAAAJW8/djmNFxRvOnw/s1600/Syvaoja-gorge-ice-wall.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The path leads me down the steep slope for a brief visit at the bottom of the gorge and immediately up again. It pays to watch your step because there is quite a bit of ice both on the ground and on the granite walls around me. And not just huge icicles. As the winter progresses, there will be even more ice that sometimes doesn't melt before July! <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dJ4Q-JaE0PQ/UOSF9xd5fjI/AAAAAAAAJW0/ciHIaEIni2w/s1600/Lamminkangas-meadow-winter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dJ4Q-JaE0PQ/UOSF9xd5fjI/AAAAAAAAJW0/ciHIaEIni2w/s1600/Lamminkangas-meadow-winter.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
Once I'm again up above the gorge, the trail steers towards Lamminkangas where some hermits used to live in total peace with the nature. They were both women: the first one was <strong>Maija-Liisa Kovanen</strong> and when she vacated the area, <strong>Lipan-Riikka</strong> with her herd of goats took over in the early 19th century. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FVlsqjDJo-c/UOSF28HoPsI/AAAAAAAAJWs/RKN25v982Pw/s1600/Wooden-bridge-Kulhanvuori-winter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FVlsqjDJo-c/UOSF28HoPsI/AAAAAAAAJWs/RKN25v982Pw/s1600/Wooden-bridge-Kulhanvuori-winter.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
Finally, the trail signs point me to the bottom of Kulhanvuori hill and I cross the Kulhankoski rapid which flows slowly under the wooden bridge. The nature trail turns to to the left and starts its ascent towards the top of the hill.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-930ozJYMDJM/UOSFvA20NBI/AAAAAAAAJWk/qJBK6iQ1aZs/s1600/Kulhanvuori-view-winter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-930ozJYMDJM/UOSFvA20NBI/AAAAAAAAJWk/qJBK6iQ1aZs/s1600/Kulhanvuori-view-winter.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
The landscape is taking on a shade of blue at this time of the day as I walk slowly up the Kulhanvuori hill. I wonder if the view will get even better once I've reached the top (at 260 meters above sea level, about 60 meters higher than the surrounding area)? Will there be an opening between the trees for a great view? <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-adz2uryGHU4/UOSFpOBhIwI/AAAAAAAAJWc/-JXlpQYA7ow/s1600/Last-trailmark-Kulhanvuori-winter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-adz2uryGHU4/UOSFpOBhIwI/AAAAAAAAJWc/-JXlpQYA7ow/s1600/Last-trailmark-Kulhanvuori-winter.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
I continue treading uphill, but with somewhat weary feet. Therefore it comes as no pleasant surprise that the trail marks (orange paint / red ribbons) stop. After a bit of searching I find the next one but then - no more. Where are you, my friends? I only need you for about half a kilometre or so... The options are to try to continue to the top in the fading light and then hit the trail to go downhill to meet the path I started from, or trace my steps back down and take a slightly longer but definitely sure route to reach the trail again. After an attempt to search for the trail marks nearby I give in and abandon the climb up to the top of Kulhanvuori hill. Better be safe than sorry; the temperature will soon begin to fall and the sun is already very low. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8HwIReeWe9g/UOSFg4EfXCI/AAAAAAAAJWU/4I7VlSwb85s/s1600/Kulhankoski-rapid-winter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8HwIReeWe9g/UOSFg4EfXCI/AAAAAAAAJWU/4I7VlSwb85s/s1600/Kulhankoski-rapid-winter.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
Naturally I feel slightly disappointed at not visiting the top of the hill. After all, the nature reserve is named after Kulhanvuori hill! However, it would not be a clever idea to remain walking here after dark. Therefore, it feels good to follow the Kulhankoski rapid up to Pieni-Musta lake the shoreline of which I followed already earlier and return to the brook and my own footprints. Once I'm again back on the trail, I walk briskly back to the car and arrive there just before the light fades. Despite the last episode, what a fantastic day! And now I've got a good reason for returning here - reaching the very top of Kulhanvuori hill some day. Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-48096472026585535812012-12-31T09:14:00.000+02:002012-12-31T09:14:04.113+02:00Leppävirta: Orinoro gorge<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UuZzRtcD8Ik/UOCr-GhV-tI/AAAAAAAAJKU/lN5ExtK-NkI/s1600/Orinoro-polku-kyltti.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UuZzRtcD8Ik/UOCr-GhV-tI/AAAAAAAAJKU/lN5ExtK-NkI/s400/Orinoro-polku-kyltti.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Orinoro Gorge at Soisalo, <a href="http://www.leppavirta.fi/index.php?id=252" target="_blank">Leppävirta</a> makes a great destination also in wintertime. However, at this time of the year you may need snowshoes, depending on how much snow there is and whether there have been other visitors before you to keep the path open (if you're really lucky!). There are two alternatives routes to visit the gorge. The longer route starts at Mustinmäki school (3.3 km to the gorge) and the shorter one at Hanhiahontie road (900 meters to the gorge). My pick today is the shorter route because there just isn't enough daylight left to make it back before the dark. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r-dQ5-XnVWw/UOCnQCVsP3I/AAAAAAAAJJc/Q1fKb7EuhdQ/s1600/Orinoron-luontopolku-rasti.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r-dQ5-XnVWw/UOCnQCVsP3I/AAAAAAAAJJc/Q1fKb7EuhdQ/s400/Orinoron-luontopolku-rasti.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
I check the start of the path before hitting the trail and find that there is no need for snow shoes today; someone has been walking there recently, and the path is open. The nature trail signposts - in Finnish only - tell more about the flora and fauna. However, the cuckoos that typically live in this forest are long gone somewhere in the south for the winter... <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pep21V0RXvM/UOC69FaP4II/AAAAAAAAJOs/J-FX6bkxfyg/s1600/Kettu-polun-poikki-Orinoro.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pep21V0RXvM/UOC69FaP4II/AAAAAAAAJOs/J-FX6bkxfyg/s400/Kettu-polun-poikki-Orinoro.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I wonder what creature of the woods has crossed the path, leaving its own trail in the snow? There are no prints because the trail is under a thin layer of snow that has fallen in the last few days. Perhaps it was a fox. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zSo6ooDm70Y/UOC8SPHqAqI/AAAAAAAAJPk/7pXduiqLqmg/s1600/Luminen-Orinoron-polku.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zSo6ooDm70Y/UOC8SPHqAqI/AAAAAAAAJPk/7pXduiqLqmg/s400/Luminen-Orinoron-polku.jpg" width="270" /></a></div>
The Orinoro trail descends down to more dense forest with the snow-covered fir trees. This is a winter wonderland. <br />
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The two spruces that are standing guard right by the trail, watching over the passers-by must be twins.<br />
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<i>Rauhoitettu luonnonsuojelualue</i> means that we are now entering a protected area: a nature reserve. The first large rocks appear close to the path so the gorge is already near.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bvM0RQY1A-w/UOC_j_XjybI/AAAAAAAAJRc/fmhDpZU42no/s1600/Jaapuikkoja-Orinoron-kalliot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bvM0RQY1A-w/UOC_j_XjybI/AAAAAAAAJRc/fmhDpZU42no/s400/Jaapuikkoja-Orinoron-kalliot.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The icicle season has already started at Orinoro gorge, thanks to the recent cold but sunny days or the occasional warmer spells. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g5eOq1JLzWo/UODA9KmaltI/AAAAAAAAJSU/Qt60p6WN9GA/s1600/Kalliorinne-jaapuikkoja-Orinoro.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g5eOq1JLzWo/UODA9KmaltI/AAAAAAAAJSU/Qt60p6WN9GA/s400/Kalliorinne-jaapuikkoja-Orinoro.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
There are even larger icicles higher up the rocks. In my eyes they bear resemblance to teeth - those of not-so-nice fairytale creatures. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FqqroLr3shM/UODBixmbSOI/AAAAAAAAJSc/E3hW6v52TG8/s1600/Orinoron-rotkossa-talvella-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FqqroLr3shM/UODBixmbSOI/AAAAAAAAJSc/E3hW6v52TG8/s400/Orinoron-rotkossa-talvella-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The trail that leads to up the gorge has railings for safety. On one side the cliff is very steep, on the other side the rocks slope up more gently. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KyUwPwvvDs4/UODCVbNK9eI/AAAAAAAAJSo/cz0fFAfikCU/s1600/Orinoron-rotkon-kapea-kohta.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KyUwPwvvDs4/UODCVbNK9eI/AAAAAAAAJSo/cz0fFAfikCU/s400/Orinoron-rotkon-kapea-kohta.jpg" width="263" /></a></div>
The gorge gets even narrower. Orinoro gorge is about 100 meters long and at its tallest point about 20 meters deep; it is considered one of the seven wonders of Savo. I get flashbacks of my visits to <a href="http://walkfinland.blogspot.fi/2012/03/laukaa-devils-icy-grave.html" target="_blank"><i>Hitonhauta</i> at Laukaa</a> and to <a href="http://walkfinland.blogspot.fi/2012/05/ruovesi-helvetinkolu-hells-gorge.html" target="_blank">Helvetinkolu at Ruovesi</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dpr1hYV9XZM/UODElTtz1eI/AAAAAAAAJUU/I7iDQ-Lzksg/s1600/Orinoron-rotkon-talvi-pitkospuut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dpr1hYV9XZM/UODElTtz1eI/AAAAAAAAJUU/I7iDQ-Lzksg/s400/Orinoron-rotkon-talvi-pitkospuut.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
To help walking, there are duckboards at the bottom of Orinoro gorge. Because of the snow, it is hard to tell how rocky and hard to walk the ground is but we opt for walking along the duckboards which can just about be discerned under the white layer of snow. However, it is good to walk slowly to avoid slipping. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WizP4qMQiMo/UODF9_kYd3I/AAAAAAAAJVQ/t4cXeCXl3aY/s1600/Orinoron-rotko-talvella.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WizP4qMQiMo/UODF9_kYd3I/AAAAAAAAJVQ/t4cXeCXl3aY/s400/Orinoron-rotko-talvella.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The different sides of the gorge behave differently: the other side has gathered quite a bit of snow whereas the other is almost snowless. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a0FROjOjnQQ/UODGogu-USI/AAAAAAAAJVY/27tJUhrC7ZM/s1600/Luminen-kallio-Orinoro.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a0FROjOjnQQ/UODGogu-USI/AAAAAAAAJVY/27tJUhrC7ZM/s400/Luminen-kallio-Orinoro.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I think I prefer the snowy rocks and the icicles here and there to bare rocks. The Orinoro gorge is gorgeous and makes you feel small even if it isn't one of the largest in the world. Time to say goodbye to it, unfortunately. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f89q91pE1Io/UOC3x3glfYI/AAAAAAAAJN0/RJDQFn56ZEc/s1600/Orinoron-nuotiopaikan-talvireitti.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f89q91pE1Io/UOC3x3glfYI/AAAAAAAAJN0/RJDQFn56ZEc/s400/Orinoron-nuotiopaikan-talvireitti.jpg" width="263" /> </a></div>
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There isn't that much snow (less than 30 cm) so we decide to make a small detour before returning to the car. Nobody has walked before us in the snow so we need to make our own path, following the green trail marks painted on the trees; there are not an awful lot of them but the trail is still fairly easy to follow. I'm glad to wear gaiters so snow doesn't get into my hiking boots. </div>
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There is a small shelter - for firewood, not for spending the night - at Orkonen lake as well as an outdoor toilet. Time for a snack and some hot tea from the thermos flask! A poem by <b>Kaisa Laitinen </b>reveals that Orinoro gorge got its name (<i>ori</i>= <i>stallion) </i>after a stallion that fell into the gorge from the cliffs. <br />
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The small, frozen Orkonen lake is silent and doesn't show any signs of life. There are no prints on the surface of the snow. Where is everyone? The trail to Orinoro gorge exists thanks to the local villagers whose volunteer work made the construction of the trail possible in 1997-98. The trail was officially opened in May 1999. Even today the villagers take care of it and bring firewood to to the shelter; this is a meeting place for local nature lovers. There are lots of these fantastic, similar volunteers all around Finland who maintain trails and shelters for the benefit of their local community and for all of us. </div>
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So... Let's do our share and honour the volunteers' work as well as the nature. No more ripping birch bark from living trees: bring your own kindling if you want to make a fire. The distance from Orkonen lake to Mustinmäki school is only 2.5 km but we turn back to follow our own trail to Hanhiahontie where we started from. Some more of Savo's winter wonderland to see on the way! Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-71282813679289969952012-12-24T14:03:00.000+02:002012-12-24T14:03:04.623+02:00Snowy Xmas at Jyväskylä<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VgeJEaUkfgM/UNgwVomEx1I/AAAAAAAAJCw/hiZm_IBKIWs/s1600/Harjun-rappuset-talvi1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VgeJEaUkfgM/UNgwVomEx1I/AAAAAAAAJCw/hiZm_IBKIWs/s1600/Harjun-rappuset-talvi1.jpg" height="400" width="263" /></a></div>
I don't mind cold weather. It's usually only a matter of getting dressed for it - and then you can go and enjoy the beauty of snow that sometimes covers practically everything. On a day like this the ridge overlooking Jyväskylä, <i>Harju</i>, is like from a fairytale. <br />
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There are lots of narrow paths criss-crossing the slopes of Harju; not everyone wants to take the wide footpaths that are kept open all year round by the city. It is nice to make a track of your own. Well, well. Someone must have been snowboarding over there, and those are definitely the marks of a sled that has dashed down the hill. <br />
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The half moon is shining its freezing cold light, to make sure that the frosty trees above my head stay the way they are. <br />
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There are strange colours on Harju Ridge; the unnatural shades of light paint the trees and the scenery to an even more eerie fairytale land. Nature shakes hands with the urban world: this is Jyväskylä, the City of Light. <br />
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When I arrive at the Nero Steps, or Harju Steps as they're often called locally, the view is breathtaking. The gorgeously lit tall trees make it an enchanting walk to the top of the ridge. I am so happy I didn't mind the temperature (something below -15<span class="st">°C) but kept on walking... </span><br />
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However, there are not many of us walking the granite steps of Harju. This is a time of silent walks, together, or on your own. <br />
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I descend back to the city centre. Merry Xmas, Jyväskylä!Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-45316351336120058942012-12-03T23:57:00.002+02:002012-12-03T23:59:40.826+02:00Jyväskylä: Xmas in the air at Toivola<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-59f-9qiUzOY/ULuM-EQqDaI/AAAAAAAAIgk/xxRjcCOQ1lA/s1600/Toivolan-vanhalle-joulupihalle2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-59f-9qiUzOY/ULuM-EQqDaI/AAAAAAAAIgk/xxRjcCOQ1lA/s1600/Toivolan-vanhalle-joulupihalle2.jpg" height="272" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.toivolanvanhapiha.fi/" target="_blank">Toivolan vanha piha</a>
or Toivola's Old Yard is a new attraction in Jyväskylä that only opened a while ago: lovingly restored old wooden houses that form a closed yard at the corner of Hannikaisenkatu and Cygnaeuksenkatu streets and that are again full of life. The yard has received its name from its former resident and owner, blacksmith <b>Herman Toivola</b> who had the main building built there in 1897. His smithy was built there in 1890. Two of the buildings are old craftsmen's houses from the 19th century that were first moved from their original locations in Cygnaeuksenkatu and Vaasankatu next to the Museum of Central Finland before being finally transferred to Toivola in 2010; they house museums. <br />
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Currently Toivola is full of Xmas spirit. Luckily, the snow arrived in Jyväskylä on the eve of Dec 1! I visit the yard for the second time this weekend, having sampled the goodies at the cellar café already on Saturday. There are Xmas gnomes wishing visitors welcome at the gate. <br />
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In addition to the usual array of Toivola's shops and workshops, there are a couple of stalls selling handicrafts, textiles, handmade jewellery, tinned lake fish, fruit juice made of berries, honey - you name it. <br />
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Naturally, there is a Christmas tree on the yard - and it is not overloaded with tons of colourful fairy lights but very simpy decorated, in true Finnish style. <br />
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I smell something adorable - salmon that is being smoked on open fire. Pretty fresh, isn't it! <b>Lassi Ruuska</b> from Kalmukoski rapid at Saarijärvi is busy at work smoking fish and selling other fish products. <br />
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<b>Marko Poldsam</b>'s stall is for those with a sweet tooth: roasted almonds with honey, apples dipped in chocolate and decorated with nuts. <br />
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Toivola's current master, <b>Margo Saxberg </b>has laid his woollen mittens on top of his small barrel organ and is playing music, to the delight of children especially. You don't often see barrel organs these days.<br />
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The main building houses a couple of workshops and shops. Inside the old "maternity ward" (<i>Synnytyslaitos</i>) - the main building actually served as one for about 20 years in the early 20th century - you can meet Father Christmas, if you're lucky. He is no Santa dressed in Coca-Cola red but an old country Santa in more traditional colours. <br />
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You can find also smaller Xmas gnomes hiding around Toivola yard, both inside and outside. They have been carefully made by doll artists. <br />
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In the red storehouses there are also indoor stalls selling handmade chocolate, felt hads, jewellery, berry jam and woollen products. <br />
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For a more quiet Christmas moment, there is a handmade nativity scene, carefully built by <b>Katariina Pentikäinen</b> between the storehouses. No touching, please...<br />
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If you feel cold you can step inside the cosy cellar café, <i>Kellarikahvila</i>, a few steps down from the yard. <br />
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The café is crowded when I enter it - no change to yesterday. However, I find a seat easily and sit down on a bench covered with a handmade rug. The freshly baked cakes both smell and taste delicious. Later on, there will be a bigger café called Muisto at Toivola but it is still being built which is why this temporary café was opened for the Xmas season 2012. <br />
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It seems like Toivola yard has been warmly welcomed by Jyväskylä; the flow of visitors seems constant during the weekend. In December 2012, the outdoor stalls and café are open on weekends and during the last week before Xmas until Dec 21 and there are also other activities, besides which the regular shops at Toivola are open normally from Monday to Saturday. Merry Xmas, Toivola!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-56733279917674189912012-12-02T01:38:00.000+02:002012-12-02T01:38:13.800+02:00Muurame: Muuramenjoki nature trail<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://www.muurame.fi/fi/muuramenjoki/" target="_blank">Muuramenjoki nature trail</a> is located in <a href="http://www.muurame.fi/fi/briefly_in_english/" target="_blank">Muurame</a>, Central Finland, only about 13 km south from the centre of its neighbouring city Jyväskylä. Before arriving here I was sure to meet a tiny, slowly flowing river so when I step down to it from Muurame's civic center by Virastotie street, I get a pleasant surprise. Is this really Muurame river or Muurame rapid?<br />
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Very soon I meet the first, slightly dirty nature trail sign which tells about the area's cultural heritage in Finnish. The buildings in front of me belonged to a furniture factory which started here in 1910. The red brick building housed a steam power plant in the old days but is today only used for storage. The white building behind it was originally taller, but its two top floors were destroyed by a fire in 1970 and only the ground floor remained. Today, the building is part of the fire station. </div>
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I find an old, big millstone that has retired from active service decades ago and is now resting on the green grass in front of the former furniture factory. The mill was located on the other side of Muurame river but the building was torn down at the end of the 1950's. The building which housed the mill had earlier served also as an umbrella factory and a dairy. </div>
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The riverbank is steep and partly collapsed to the river; therefore there is red and yellow caution tape to stop anyone stepping too far. When I enter the footbridge to cross the river, I smell a bit of smoke. There is a fading fire close to the offical start of the nature trail, perched on a rock that could well be another millstone as this is where the mill used to be; the two fishermen have apparently had a break here. They have been fly fishing - with not too much success so far - and are getting ready to move to another spot further down. </div>
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The nature trail (<i>luontopolku</i>) sign indicates that I should head off the riverbank. However, I am not ready to leave Muurame river just yet but decide to follow another footpath that will lead me further upstream, to the bridge that I see in the distance. I'm simply so pleased to be walking by this beautiful stream that I don't want to leave it just yet.<br />
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This autumn has been very rainy in Central Finland, just like previous year. The water level in lakes normally goes down in the autumn but for two consecutive years now it's been the opposite. If there are also heavy snowfalls in the winter, it means that the water levels will remain very high also next spring. When I look at white water in Muurame river now, I can imagine this is what it could be like on a normal spring. The river flows from Muuratjärvi lake to Päijänne, descending 12 meters on the way, so it is no wonder the water flows pretty fast. The shallow river doesn't seem fit for kayaking because of the rocks but it is very popular among fishermen. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UelWUwwqEWc/ULZVvA8pZNI/AAAAAAAAIeU/rRgOTWoeRbc/s1600/Muurame-Piano-Jylhan-talo.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UelWUwwqEWc/ULZVvA8pZNI/AAAAAAAAIeU/rRgOTWoeRbc/s1600/Muurame-Piano-Jylhan-talo.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
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The path takes me up to Muuramentie road and right next to the bridge across the river. The large windows reveal that the wooden building must have been a shop earlier. Today it is home to Piano Jylhä. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F0kCIA_MFkA/ULZWCChCaYI/AAAAAAAAIec/kGTPwQPHN44/s1600/Muuramen-silta-1898.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F0kCIA_MFkA/ULZWCChCaYI/AAAAAAAAIec/kGTPwQPHN44/s1600/Muuramen-silta-1898.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
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The engraving on the stone bridge dates it back to 1898 when Finland was still part of Russia. </div>
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When I look upstream from the bridge towards Muuratjärvi lake the river seems to flow very gently.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gTbrId0kPpc/ULZWjCGQ9UI/AAAAAAAAIes/zGU9r8mk7TY/s1600/Muuramenjoki-sillalta-alas-tukinuittoranni.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gTbrId0kPpc/ULZWjCGQ9UI/AAAAAAAAIes/zGU9r8mk7TY/s1600/Muuramenjoki-sillalta-alas-tukinuittoranni.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
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However, immediately after the bridge the river seems to catch speed so there must be a bit of a drop already. The wooden construction on the right has been used for guiding floating logs downstream - no idea when that ended here. So glad I walked up here to get a good view of the stream from above!</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hLqzPvR5A0c/ULZXamfq53I/AAAAAAAAIe8/sOqiW3nIIXM/s1600/Perhokalastaja-Muuramenjoki.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hLqzPvR5A0c/ULZXamfq53I/AAAAAAAAIe8/sOqiW3nIIXM/s1600/Perhokalastaja-Muuramenjoki.jpg" height="280" width="400" /></a></div>
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I return downstream and follow the nature trail for a while through a now barren meadow - with all leaves having already fallen down - but hear the river calling me again. The opposite shore reveals the former furniture factory building I passed earlier. Fly fishing continues in this spot; the river is mostly very shallow but right in front of me the water is 5 meters deep, giving a better chance for catching fish. However, it seems that the fish are not in the mood for the elaborately made flies today.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBIBFxD0_Ds/ULZW_Tyw8cI/AAAAAAAAIe0/5oTvqm6Uu3I/s1600/Tuohesta-kuoritut-koivut.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBIBFxD0_Ds/ULZW_Tyw8cI/AAAAAAAAIe0/5oTvqm6Uu3I/s1600/Tuohesta-kuoritut-koivut.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
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If the fast flowing water has attacked the sandy riverbank a bit too fiercely, these poor birches have been victims of unthinking humans. If you want to make a fire, bring some kindling with you. There are shops only some hundred meters from here if you come unprepared. Never cut birch bark from a living tree! It doesn't grow back quickly but the trees stay like this. </div>
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Behind the old birches the water is totally still, reflecting the trees like a huge mirror. A total change of atmosphere from the more noisy white water only a little distance away! I slow down my step and find it is a wise decision because the duckboards are even more slippery than I anticipated. Watch your step!<br />
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The quiet waters have risen very high here. Some of the duckboards and part of the wooden bridge across to the other side of the river have suffered somewhat...<br />
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Despite the bridge being even partly under water, it is great to cross it and admire the scenery on the way. Some ingenious soul has kindly brought a wide board here as temporary help, to enable us to to walk across without getting your shoes wet. <br />
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A meadow, then a swamp. Such a great place - so many different faces to it within such a short distance from each other!<br />
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Walking a bit further along the path, the water is wonderfully still and here it looks like this is a small lake.<br />
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Therefore I get another surprise when the path reaches another bridge. The white water flows down so fast! Earlier, the dam blocked access for the migrating fish that would have wanted to swim upstream but then a fishway was built on the right side. In the fishway, the water doesn't flow as aggressively and even fish which are not as strong swimmers are able to get upstream. How kind! <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4AT1ptQ8t5Q/ULZZQ2E4XZI/AAAAAAAAIfs/lAKMLrc71Qs/s1600/Muuramenjoki-noussut-vesi-polulle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4AT1ptQ8t5Q/ULZZQ2E4XZI/AAAAAAAAIfs/lAKMLrc71Qs/s1600/Muuramenjoki-noussut-vesi-polulle.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
I listen to the rumble of the white water which soon fades away as I return to the still waters. The nature trail is a circular route and very soon I arrive where I started from. Before that, there is a bit of a damp patch which indicates that if the water level keeps rising, the trail will need to be moved a bit higher. <br />
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Muurame river nature trail is a real gem that is worth a visit any time of the year. I can hardly wait to see it when the snow has fallen and the river is at least partly frozen, or in early summer, surrounded by the fresh shades of green, or in September-October when the leaves are turning yellow!</div>
Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7493205095889658514.post-8028139328206118422012-11-26T23:42:00.001+02:002012-11-28T19:45:48.012+02:00Tampere: A peek at Pispala<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GLTTffU1nuM/UKAXlk-NuRI/AAAAAAAAIIU/UoKru_N_7Rc/s1600/Pispala-luonnonleikkipuisto.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GLTTffU1nuM/UKAXlk-NuRI/AAAAAAAAIIU/UoKru_N_7Rc/s1600/Pispala-luonnonleikkipuisto.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
An absolutely gorgeous autumn sun shines on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pispala" target="_blank">Pispala</a>, Tampere and lures me towards the shore of lake Pyhäjärvi. I follow Isolähteenkatu street to the lakeside and pass a weird-looking handmade construction.<i> A children's nature play ground under construction - Do not damage!</i>, says the sign. All the "equipment" seems to be made of natural materials, with a huge spider's web woven of rags.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_bFzMd2Nxak/UKAZXcObsRI/AAAAAAAAIIk/FoyENyGoYAo/s1600/Pispala-rannan-kavelytie.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_bFzMd2Nxak/UKAZXcObsRI/AAAAAAAAIIk/FoyENyGoYAo/s1600/Pispala-rannan-kavelytie.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
There is a light breeze blowing from lake Pyhäjärvi. I take a right turn because it will allow me to enjoy the joys of Pispala much longer - I'll probably need to return towards town the same way... <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fmtyuteargc/UKAY3dU5uEI/AAAAAAAAIIc/Cqp4m_dyu9U/s1600/Kiehislyhty-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fmtyuteargc/UKAY3dU5uEI/AAAAAAAAIIc/Cqp4m_dyu9U/s1600/Kiehislyhty-Pispala.jpg" height="307" width="400" /></a></div>
What I see above me on the footpath is no ordinary mess of branches but a work of art. I am glad this wooden "ball" is hanging high enough so no one can reach it without a ladder because it is made of <i>kiehinen</i> which are great when lighting up a fire!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2aLIPvnoyI/UKAbdQOmCCI/AAAAAAAAIIs/E-mn1dfyz2A/s1600/Rantakoivun-varjokuva-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2aLIPvnoyI/UKAbdQOmCCI/AAAAAAAAIIs/E-mn1dfyz2A/s1600/Rantakoivun-varjokuva-Pispala.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Quite a few of the rowing boats have already been turned upside down for the winter but some are still ready for use. No wonder, the lake seems far from ready to freeze just yet. I'd love to go on the lake! But not without a boat of course, the water is already freezing cold. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DKXpnLHcAXA/UKAcjeG4kmI/AAAAAAAAII0/P_Rhe11BJyA/s1600/Kavelytestin-kaantopaikka.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DKXpnLHcAXA/UKAcjeG4kmI/AAAAAAAAII0/P_Rhe11BJyA/s1600/Kavelytestin-kaantopaikka.jpg" height="285" width="400" /></a></div>
I enjoy the afternoon light and take a look at my right, my left, my right, my left. On the left there is the lake, on the right the famous Pispala with its houses, gardens and history. Suddenly I meet a sign that says <i>Kävelytestin kääntöpaikka</i>, or <i>Turning point for walking test</i>. Glad this is no test but an ordinary walk so I can keep going.<br />
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A group of rowan trees brightens the side of the footpath. Suddenly I realize there is something odd in this particular tree; the color of the berries is not that of the typical rowan trees in Finland; this is more yellow. My observation is confirmed when I look at its neighbours which are a different colour, the "usual" one. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7MDIzJevBUI/UKFrU-y8OwI/AAAAAAAAIKg/fnhuqr_qaJM/s1600/Pattarankatu-Vieremankatu-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7MDIzJevBUI/UKFrU-y8OwI/AAAAAAAAIKg/fnhuqr_qaJM/s1600/Pattarankatu-Vieremankatu-Pispala.jpg" height="316" width="400" /></a></div>
Autumn is a great time for house-spotting because after the leaves have fallen, you can see all the details of the buildings and gardens so much better. Like the nice downstairs windows that are hidden by the Victoria creeper from early summer to the autumn.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QVqV5c87Y4o/UKFlie9u5AI/AAAAAAAAIJo/bXdBsHaKIn8/s1600/Syysiltapaivan-varjot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QVqV5c87Y4o/UKFlie9u5AI/AAAAAAAAIJo/bXdBsHaKIn8/s1600/Syysiltapaivan-varjot.jpg" height="262" width="400" /></a></div>
I turn to Uittotunnelinkatu (<i>Timber rafting tunnel street</i>) above which there is a wall made of natural rocks. Two dogs bark at me, to kill the time on this lazy afternoon when I enter the shadow-laden footpath.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5CHSOoGBVCs/UKFnKM0ZdtI/AAAAAAAAIJw/63ILJbRLHgs/s1600/Uittotunneli-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5CHSOoGBVCs/UKFnKM0ZdtI/AAAAAAAAIJw/63ILJbRLHgs/s1600/Uittotunneli-Pispala.jpg" height="286" width="400" /></a></div>
The trees are gathered round a ditch-like opening at the end of which there is a tunnel - a timber rafting tunnel that connects lake Näsijärvi on the other side of Pispalanharju ridge to this side and lake Pyhäjärvi. I get even more surprised when I look down towards lake Pyhäjärvi and see a set of rails that lead towards the lake. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9cl9kYBFx5g/UKFprRl3d9I/AAAAAAAAIKQ/e7p8m_01sQk/s1600/Tukinuittotunnelin-rata-Pyhajarvi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9cl9kYBFx5g/UKFprRl3d9I/AAAAAAAAIKQ/e7p8m_01sQk/s1600/Tukinuittotunnelin-rata-Pyhajarvi.jpg" height="270" width="400" /></a></div>
I wonder what kind of system has been at the receiving end of the log rafting tunnel, moving the logs that swam through to the open-air vehicle on the rails? The remains of the vehicle are still there. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M-LVKr-aAOA/UKFqFypjdHI/AAAAAAAAIKY/bgHHhBfyfUU/s1600/Vene-uittoradan-paassa-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M-LVKr-aAOA/UKFqFypjdHI/AAAAAAAAIKY/bgHHhBfyfUU/s1600/Vene-uittoradan-paassa-Pispala.jpg" height="272" width="400" /></a></div>
Next I simply have to visit lake Pyhäjärvi shore just to see where the rails end. In the lake, of course, and the person who owns the white rowing boat - already turned upside down for the winter - is confident that no logs will pass this way anymore. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7cV3ud64N5E/UKFr8E1wXYI/AAAAAAAAIKo/F2_XL6Mh8oU/s1600/Kurpitsatalon-koristelintu-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7cV3ud64N5E/UKFr8E1wXYI/AAAAAAAAIKo/F2_XL6Mh8oU/s1600/Kurpitsatalon-koristelintu-Pispala.jpg" height="297" width="400" /> </a></div>
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I follow the footpath by the shore back towards Tahmela. When I have reached the place where I first entered the lakeshore I spot a white ceramic bird nesting on a granite pillar. It is only then that I notice what house the bird is guarding: <i>Kurpitsatalo</i>, or Pumpkin House. The yellow wooden house seems quiet but the notice board outside its entrance reveals that there have been loads of activities here lately, and not just at the children's nature playground next door. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A2AtZs3QmeQ/UKFufQJRAUI/AAAAAAAAILM/5FEL3wGOcUI/s1600/Kurpitsatalon-ryytimaa.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A2AtZs3QmeQ/UKFufQJRAUI/AAAAAAAAILM/5FEL3wGOcUI/s1600/Kurpitsatalon-ryytimaa.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.pispala.fi/kurpitsa/kurpitsaliike.php" target="_blank">Kurpitsaliike</a> (<i>Pumpkin Movement</i>) has its headquarters in Kurpitsatalo. The movement defends local Pispala heritage and supports allotments for growing your own vegetables. There are still a couple of the season's last plants and herbs that haven't yet given in to winter. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6coWVpJ8mxw/UKFvMU75DqI/AAAAAAAAILU/YrrWB58SilQ/s1600/Pispalan-rinne-Tahmelasta.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6coWVpJ8mxw/UKFvMU75DqI/AAAAAAAAILU/YrrWB58SilQ/s1600/Pispalan-rinne-Tahmelasta.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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I keep on walking, via Tahmela beach towards the streets from which I can choose which way to take to the top of Pispalanharju ridge. There are so many houses, ranging from the small and large old ones to modern ones that have been built between the original houses. It is hard to imagine what it must have looked like in here all those decades ago, before huge windows became fashionable. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B_5UYfYsR28/UKFwq7H12fI/AAAAAAAAILk/ZucFNgq_D88/s1600/Hirvikatu-10-Hirvitalo-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B_5UYfYsR28/UKFwq7H12fI/AAAAAAAAILk/ZucFNgq_D88/s1600/Hirvikatu-10-Hirvitalo-Pispala.jpg" height="307" width="400" /></a></div>
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When I've almost reached Hirvikatu street, I notice a pair of white, happy looking circus horses dancing on the porch. It would be nice to get a closer look! </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LRPgZUoMYdU/UKFwOHUNrnI/AAAAAAAAILc/uNDp0Ezv9iI/s1600/Hirvitalon-iloinen-hevonen-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LRPgZUoMYdU/UKFwOHUNrnI/AAAAAAAAILc/uNDp0Ezv9iI/s1600/Hirvitalon-iloinen-hevonen-Pispala.jpg" height="258" width="320" /></a></div>
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I walk around the house to find out that <i><a href="http://www.hirvikatu10.net/" target="_blank"><i>Hirvitalo</i></a> (Moose House) </i>is a real art house, a centre of contemporary art. I boldly step inside the porch to try the door but almost immediately hear that there is no entrance before the next exhibition opens. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1lFKicG6rjQ/UKFxg-eDRiI/AAAAAAAAILs/k5Cq98jBoPI/s1600/Kirjekuorilaukut-Hirvitalo-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1lFKicG6rjQ/UKFxg-eDRiI/AAAAAAAAILs/k5Cq98jBoPI/s1600/Kirjekuorilaukut-Hirvitalo-Pispala.jpg" height="280" width="400" /></a></div>
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In the garden of Hirvitalo there are quite a few letters, made of fabric, hanging from the branches of the apple tree. I wonder if there are messages inside? If so, who are they for? Can or will someone open them sometime? When I spot a traffic sign on the grass - lying down - that states you are not allowed to walk here I begin to wonder... </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J2NNrmAu1rk/UKFy9ZcTFYI/AAAAAAAAIL0/wVbFNMGa4ZE/s1600/Puuvene-Hirvitalo-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J2NNrmAu1rk/UKFy9ZcTFYI/AAAAAAAAIL0/wVbFNMGa4ZE/s1600/Puuvene-Hirvitalo-Pispala.jpg" height="261" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Center of Contemporary Art of Pispala showcases quite a few works of art in the garden, ranging from a number of letters (that can be moved about to form words) attached on a garden shed wall - I read "<i>PALJON SYKSYÄ", </i>or <i>much autumn</i> as the translation would be, to different artworks beneath the apple tree. The wooden boat is beautifully carved but it doesn't look like extremely seaworthy. Or even lakeworthy. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uZCmrUg6htg/UKFz4d5ENLI/AAAAAAAAIL8/BJNYuPjzsY8/s1600/Varronkatu-portti-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uZCmrUg6htg/UKFz4d5ENLI/AAAAAAAAIL8/BJNYuPjzsY8/s1600/Varronkatu-portti-Pispala.jpg" height="286" width="400" /></a></div>
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I really need to start walking uphill. Should I choose a steep street or the steps? At the last minute, I take a couple of steps aside and almost fall for a different route, along the nice looking Varronkatu... </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rQRyEn0--Tc/UKF0xCQWbmI/AAAAAAAAIME/pB8jbCBiVTM/s1600/Pispalan-portaat-alhaalta.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rQRyEn0--Tc/UKF0xCQWbmI/AAAAAAAAIME/pB8jbCBiVTM/s1600/Pispalan-portaat-alhaalta.jpg" height="320" width="258" /></a></div>
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However, at this point there is no way I could ignore the famous Steps of Pispala. They are a must! And there is a significantly larger number of steps than there is for example at Harju steps in Jyväskylä, but then again, I am not in a hurry. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dQ512nW9Dro/UKF1qXSwhFI/AAAAAAAAIMM/nII6me1-uAw/s1600/Pispalan-portaat-alaspain-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dQ512nW9Dro/UKF1qXSwhFI/AAAAAAAAIMM/nII6me1-uAw/s1600/Pispalan-portaat-alaspain-1.jpg" height="400" width="292" /></a></div>
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Step by step I climb higher and lake Pyhäjärvi seems to be even further away, so low. You really get a sense of moving up here! </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FNQzQII7nj8/UKF2CimkyhI/AAAAAAAAIMU/HblV3klgSMA/s1600/Pispalan-portaat-alaspain-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FNQzQII7nj8/UKF2CimkyhI/AAAAAAAAIMU/HblV3klgSMA/s1600/Pispalan-portaat-alaspain-2.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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...Until there are only few more steps left and I'm finally on top of Pispalanharju ridge! </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7A8erjoTQp8/UKF2UxFlboI/AAAAAAAAIMc/ayILPbqrWHY/s1600/Pispalan-portaat-koira.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7A8erjoTQp8/UKF2UxFlboI/AAAAAAAAIMc/ayILPbqrWHY/s1600/Pispalan-portaat-koira.jpg" height="287" width="400" /></a></div>
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I feel very content now that I've walked up here until I discover the steps continue even further. However, it is not such a bad revelation because they start heading down from the top of the ridge. Another, private set of Steps of Pispala (<i>Pispalan portaat</i>) seems to have been installed by the side of the real thing, but unlike the ones I'm treading towards, the private steps are fiercely guarded. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rDT_6AS8Ts0/UKF3GBd7HdI/AAAAAAAAIMk/wjvH5EPur_w/s1600/Nasinneula-Pispalasta.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rDT_6AS8Ts0/UKF3GBd7HdI/AAAAAAAAIMk/wjvH5EPur_w/s1600/Nasinneula-Pispalasta.jpg" height="286" width="400" /></a></div>
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On my way down I stop to gaze at the view towards lake Näsijärvi and Särkänniemi with its tall observation tower, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A4sinneula_tower" target="_blank">Näsinneula</a>. They seem to be so low... </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Yz2kzlK9bc/UKF3ZWClwgI/AAAAAAAAIMs/mxo45Gv0m28/s1600/Lauri-Viita-museo-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Yz2kzlK9bc/UKF3ZWClwgI/AAAAAAAAIMs/mxo45Gv0m28/s1600/Lauri-Viita-museo-Pispala.jpg" height="295" width="400" /></a></div>
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I keep my fingers crossed. There is a museum for a local writer / poet <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lauri_Viita" target="_blank"><b>Lauri Viita</b></a> who lived in the area. However, I am not in luck; the museum is open only in summertime. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ts6l7ObrZvY/UKF4W-a2dJI/AAAAAAAAIM0/p0DafL92wkw/s1600/Haulitorni-Lead-tower-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ts6l7ObrZvY/UKF4W-a2dJI/AAAAAAAAIM0/p0DafL92wkw/s1600/Haulitorni-Lead-tower-Pispala.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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It means that I will stick to my role as an external observer. I simply have to go and check out the weird-looking red structure that you can see for miles: <i>The Shot Tower (</i>Haulitorni) which was not used by snipers for shooting people but instead for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_tower" target="_blank">making shot balls</a> of lead! </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8CELfREhTVo/UKF8kypqA8I/AAAAAAAAINM/w_EL-KZr8-s/s1600/Vaakon-Nakki-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8CELfREhTVo/UKF8kypqA8I/AAAAAAAAINM/w_EL-KZr8-s/s1600/Vaakon-Nakki-Pispala.jpg" height="281" width="400" /></a></div>
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I suppose I need to turn and start heading for the centre of Tampere from Pispala - the light will fade soon. There are still a couple of local landmarks left. The local grill <a href="http://www.vaakonnakki.fi/" target="_blank"><i>Vaakon nakki</i></a> is more than 50 years old and keeps going strong but I am here too early to get to sample hot sausages (or anything else, for that matter!) in the cosy open-air tables. Covered with frost, of course... </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JqzTSIhAZ2Q/UKF8d3buHUI/AAAAAAAAINE/7ApgMwugCmw/s1600/We-love-Pispala-PAUppa.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JqzTSIhAZ2Q/UKF8d3buHUI/AAAAAAAAINE/7ApgMwugCmw/s1600/We-love-Pispala-PAUppa.jpg" height="257" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Pauppa (</i>not "kauppa" which means a shop in Finnish) houses the artistic <i>Pau house</i> (no idea when it keeps its doors open) which apparently sells some artful artefacts. I sense<i> </i>a positive vibe towards Pispala here! </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wlYntbrvh3Y/UKF9MsKnGdI/AAAAAAAAINU/PljzmzeLCKM/s1600/Pispalan-Pulteri.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wlYntbrvh3Y/UKF9MsKnGdI/AAAAAAAAINU/PljzmzeLCKM/s1600/Pispalan-Pulteri.jpg" height="278" width="400" /></a></div>
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The restaurant Pispalan
Pulteri has been here for decades, since 1968. And guess what - the name of the restaurant is derived from Johnny Hart's comic strip <a href="http://b.c./">B.C.</a> which has been translated as '<i>Pulteri' </i>in Finnish. Suddenly I think about my childhood and reading the comic strip in the <i>Apu </i>magazine at my Granny's.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uj5APcNU41M/UKF9oOJj5sI/AAAAAAAAINc/9w2kFFpqH4s/s1600/Rajaportin-sauna-Pispala.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uj5APcNU41M/UKF9oOJj5sI/AAAAAAAAINc/9w2kFFpqH4s/s1600/Rajaportin-sauna-Pispala.jpg" height="302" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally I see the mustard walls of Rajaportin sauna, the most famous sauna of Pispala. This will be a great finish for my walk. Just imagine a walk at Pispala - a touch of nature, a bit of architecture in the form of houses from different periods, art, literary history, a chance to pop in for a snack/meal or a drink, and a relaxing end for it at a proper sauna... However, better check when the sauna is open because I am out of luck and find only a closed door in front of me today. Need to return another time to experience the Rajaportti sauna, aged +100 years! </div>
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Upe Nykänenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04028610048625922898noreply@blogger.com0